new guy here, i got a 620 for free

[herculesinwyoming]

Hello all, i have the offer to haul an old datsun 620 long bed away for free.

Im not sure what year it is,i do know it is a 4 speed and it does have keys which is a plus.

The truck hasnt moved in about 10 years, it ran when parked i believe it was parked because he got a newer car.

 

Qusetion is what it is worth, and would you tackle a job like this? I know the gas will be gross, and carb work will be in order? and just about every mechanical part will need checked.

 

any tips on figureing out what year it is?

 

Heres a photo to help

Thanks for any ideas or opinions,

[dat620]

hello and welcome home, u will find this group of people to be your new extended family, now for the question, value is up to u, and how much time u feel it is worth, the vin plate in the drvr door jamb will tell u production date, that is the year, from the picture it looks ok from drvr side, any serious rust or damage? and again welcome, :D

[banzai510(hainz)]

olddatsuns.com is a good site to get info

[Weaver]

Even if you don't think it's worth a lot, it's free! If you don't want to spend the time to fix it, you could always sell it to someone who is. (i.e. a fellow ratsuner ;D)

It looks to me like it's worth it; I would be willing to fix it up. It looks better than mine, and I'm working on fixing mine up. xD

[datzenmike]

It's got an L20B in it. (I can see it from here)

[herculesinwyoming]

thanks for the kind welcome.

i havnt had a chance to check the floors, there is surface reust on the bottom of the doors, and a rust spot on the fenders, just in front of the doors

passenger side fender is bant a tiny bit like he bumpped it nothing awfull. the front valance under the bumper is pretty beat up, but isnt beyond repair.

 

I am just waiting for the weather to get better, its wet and muddy right now.

but she is comeing home soon, i just hope the brakes still work.

 

it is 2 blocks from my house so at least i dont have to move it very far.

Edited April 18, 2009 by herculesinwyoming

[herculesinwyoming]

im really hopeing for the l20 engine too,

i will go look at it today and find out what yearit is and what engine it has.

i forgot to mention if i dont take it, it is going to the crusher.

 

my first car was an 81 200sx that was a good running engine in it too, after it was totaled the engine and tranny ended up in a 620 truck, i always wondered how it did in the old 620.

Edited April 18, 2009 by herculesinwyoming

[Pacific coast Datsun]

Good score & a longbed too! Plan on replacing the wheel cylinders & probably the clutch slave if it's sat that long. Possibly too the brake & clutch master as well. Pour a bit of oil down each spark plug hole then turn motor by hand [socket on crank bolt] , replace the plugs too. id also flush out the gas tank really good before trying to start or...run the gas line into a gas can for a quick test fire.

[herculesinwyoming]

i was thinking similar, maybe some wd 40 in each plug hole and let it sit over night and the try to manually turn the engine.

i would rather take my time then to mess things up.

[Pacific coast Datsun]

WD will work too or...marvel mystery oil same concept diff. fluid. I agree dont rush. Youll also wanna make sure it's timed before u fire it up. Use the search feature..almost everything has been covered here:D

[herculesinwyoming]

thanks, for the info, im thinking on a new cap and rotor and, what ever else may need attention, if it has points i will change them too. fresh fuel and fuel filter, and a extra fuel filter to change out when it plugs up,

 

I just need to figure out how im going to flush and clean the fuel tank too.

[Bleach]

from that one picture I would guess it is between 1975 and 1977

 

as stated, the driver's door frame will have info on when it was manufactured.

 

Looks just like an orange longbed that is for sale in Washington (craigslist)

 

It'll be worth anywhere from $500-1000 when its running and has good brakes. Value depends on a lot of factors as well as your location. Where are you from?

[Jayden71]

Free is an awesome price!!:fu: Don't let it go to the crusher:(

 

You did good, you posted a pic on first try!!:D If you didn't we would have given you lots of greif for it:lol:

[datzenmike]

I agree those look like non disc brake rims. Definitely no older than a '75 and could have a late '74 build date on the door jam.

[LCDC]

1975 or newer. surprised no one else could figure that out.(except for bleach) Oh, Datzenmike, I'm gonna have a pic for ya soon.

Edited April 18, 2009 by LCDC
for bleach's sake!!!

[Bleach]

1975 or newer. surprised no one else could figure that out.

are you serious? :mellow:

[herculesinwyoming]

truck is in north east wyoming

i started a new thread with more info and pics

[LCDC]

are you serious? :mellow:

 

sorry bleach, when i said no one else, that was suppose to exlclude you, i didn't get to it.:D

[Phlebmaster]

Welcome to Ratsun!! :D

[herculesinwyoming]

the old truck is home now, the clucth has fluid but it didnt work, the brake master was empty and dry, but after adding some fluid and letting it sit for a while it actually got a tiny bit of brakes going, good enough to tow 2 blocks home

 

tomorrow we will wash some of the grime off to see what we have to work with.

[kgrantkey]

The clutch is frozen to the flywheel. Put it in 1st gear and rock it, give it gas ,let up, give it gas...the clutch should disengage.

 

Oh, its not running. Well if you want jerk out the engine and tranny. They come out as a piece easier than separately. But like stated earlier pull all the plugs and turn the motor over without compression. It's not a real big deal to pull the head unless you have never played around with the timing chain tensioner.

 

If you want just sell it to someone on this forum. If you do that don't try and fix anything as you will just create work for someone else.

 

This is a good place to get answers or part information.

[herculesinwyoming]

i will check into that, it rolled real well in nuetral, i think the master or slave is shot because the pedal goes strait to the floor with no resistance.

[Wharf Rat]

Welcome to the Rat Pack:D

[herculesinwyoming]

thanks guys for all the info and the welcome.

[datzenmike]

Fill the clutch master and have someone work the clutch while you watch the slave cylinder on the pass side. If not moving, loosen the bleeder and let the fluid siphon down and out. If not gravity bleeding, bleed just like the brakes and keep that master full. Flush until only clean fluid comes out. This will either get it working, or it will leak because it is shot.

 

Sitting 10 years in Wyoming.. geeez. Was the coolant drained? Was there coolant still in the rad? Hopefully the block was empty and didn't freeze up. Keep fingers Xed.

Edited April 19, 2009 by datzenmike