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L power Hyro-drive rockcrawler


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I was over on my other favorite forum and this thread was up at the top.

I figured you guys over here would appreciate this one... Here's a link to the thread and a teaser pic to get you started :D

 

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=585331

 

DSC01242.jpg

 

I have a feeling there will be all sorts of crazy tech in this thread. All the wheels will be hydraulicly (sp) driven. It's also front and rear independent suspension (which has never really worked well in a rockcrawler).

 

I can let you guys know when there are updates if you like as I will be following that thread to completion.

 

BTW, it's not my thread I just saw it and thought you guys would appreciate the L powerplant and tech is always cool. ;)

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Ya that was a good one :D

 

The ac pump will probably be used for on-board air. Most wheeler's do this to power air lockers, air tools and to air up tires after a day of wheeling on lower tire pressure. You can run lines off the stock pump to an air tank. This might be an option for you guys running air bags ;)

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That dude is doing some crazy fab work!! I gotta keep my eye on that thread :D

 

That whole forum is fab-ulicous ;)

 

Most builds on there the are tube chassis creations these days :cool:

 

for example ;)

 

photo.php?table=eGallery_photo&ID=105

 

Edit: why won't the link show up as a pic...

 

here's another example of the fab over there

 

rearsuspension021.jpg

 

well that one worked...

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Hey! LOL. Go easy on him he didn't know...

 

Quote:I would almost put money on a supra engine but not perfect on my guessing. Just figured by the nissian letters on valve and can think what other nissian motor thats a inline 6 off the top of my head.

 

You're more of a Datsun expert than him, is all.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I found my way over here.

So the motor is out of a 280z 1978 built to 1979 specs so says the stickers.

The engine is going to power a hydraulic pump. The pump can only turn 4000 RPM Max and no more, so I will keep it at 3500. The fuel injection is junked and I will run a propane carb. So what do I need to do, and I mean the easy stuff, I saw something about the timing chain?

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Welcome, I was hoping you wouldn't mind the cross post.

 

As for the timing chain, your cam gear has 3 settings (numbered notches on the gear) and lining up the #3 notch with the proper TDC link on the chain will give you more low end power and torque.

 

I'm sure there's more little things you can do. These guys know the L's pretty well and love to help out :D

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2eDeYe;14646']That whole forum is fab-ulicous ;)

 

Most builds on there the are tube chassis creations these days :cool:

 

for example ;)

 

photo.php?table=eGallery_photo&ID=105

 

Edit: why won't the link show up as a pic...

 

here's another example of the fab over there

 

rearsuspension021.jpg

 

well that one worked...

 

 

That is amazing work! I would feel bad taking it into the woods :D hehe

 

I found my way over here.

So the motor is out of a 280z 1978 built to 1979 specs so says the stickers.

The engine is going to power a hydraulic pump. The pump can only turn 4000 RPM Max and no more' date=' so I will keep it at 3500. The fuel injection is junked and I will run a propane carb. So what do I need to do, and I mean the easy stuff, I saw something about the timing chain?[/quote']

 

Nice to have you on the board :D

 

Why propane?

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On the timing gear, is there a spot marked on the chain and do I jump a link to the next marking on the timing gear and can this be done with only taking off the valve cover?

For rpm control, is there a way to govern these engines. Is there a soft rev limiter that the engine can run up against without problems, meaning run smooth not bouncing, or to do continuously. I figure this way will waste fuel but that ok.

Propane comes in its own fuel cell/tank no pumps needed, no air in lines or sloshing of fuel in a tank. High octane. Clean. No electronics or computer needed. Very easy to tune, elevation does not bother it much.

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plus it's simpler than EFI.

 

shouldn't be a spot on the chain.

 

Hi guys! followed some of you over here from NWDE.

As far as Pirate goes: I think it's jumped the shark, so to speak. It's starting to turn into the Chopper thing about 3 years ago, more about Form and Image than Function.

 

There aren't as many truly technical builds like Hydro's anymore. it's a shame.

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Hey there makya, when do we get to see your truck buildup over here? :D

 

Ya, pirates become mostly bling, used to be full on ratsun back in the day :P

 

Where's Hainz with the tech on the cam gear....paging Hainz...Hainz the hydro thread...

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On the timing gear, is there a spot marked on the chain and do I jump a link to the next marking on the timing gear and can this be done with only taking off the valve cover?

For rpm control, is there a way to govern these engines. Is there a soft rev limiter that the engine can run up against without problems, meaning run smooth not bouncing, or to do continuously. I figure this way will waste fuel but that ok.

Propane comes in its own fuel cell/tank no pumps needed, no air in lines or sloshing of fuel in a tank. High octane. Clean. No electronics or computer needed. Very easy to tune, elevation does not bother it much.

 

The mark on the chain only applies if you have just installed the chain on the timing marks on the crank and cam sprockets. If the motor has been run and then put at TDC the chain marks have by then moved to a random position.

 

 

Remove valve cover and loosen the cam sprocket retaining bolt (don't remove yet) you may have to put a socket extension through the cam sprocket to lock it in order to loosen the bolt.

Place the engine at DTC compression stroke and lock timing chain by firmly driving a piece of wood (1/2" thick and tapering from 1 3/4" down to 1 1/4" X 6" long) down between the chain guides, just below the cam sprocket. This will immobilize the chain below the head and prevent the chain tensioner from falling out. Engine crank must not be turned from now on!! Important!

Remove the cam retaining bolt and the fuel pump eccentric and washer and look at the front of the sprocket. You will see that 3 of the 4 holes finger size holes in the sprocket are in the 9, 12 and 3 o'clock position and are marked 3, 2, 1 , with a small 1/4" hole just below these numbers. (there is a second set of numbers out closer to the chain but ignore these for now) The small hole allows a dowel on the cam to lock into place. Look through the larger hole in the 12 o'clock position, (it will most likely be in the marked number 2 position) to the back side of the sprocket and you should see a small VEE notch. Just behind and slightly above the VEE there will be a small inscribed, horizontal mark on the cam thrust plate. If all is adjusted properly, the inscribed line should be to the LEFT of the VEE notch on the sprocket.

If it isn't, or you just want to advance your cam timing, lift the sprocket away from the cam dowel and and separate from the chain and rotate to the #3 dowel hole and reengage chain and cam dowel (cam may need to be turned very slightly to engage dowel into sprocket hole, do NOT turn motor to do this only the cam) If all you are doing is removing chain slack the inscribed mark should now be to the LEFT of the VEE mark. Install sprocket mounting bolt AND fuel pump eccentric and snug it up. Remove wooden chain block, lock the cam sprocket and torque the retaining bolt to 100 ft lbs.

 

Each dowel hole adjustment changes the cam timing by 4 degrees.

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