motavated

Wasnt Indy at Neg at one point???? He sure changed Indy. +1

DOUBLE FUCKEN RAINBOW!

My cus own a tire shop and he recommended me the Kumhos over the Falkens any day for DD and track. I am using the ECSTA ASX KU21... Hi performance all season...

I have an original one but its cracked... What I did I got the plastic "coned" face from the odo face. Cut it up and its fits.... Go to a yard find that plastic and cut it with a dremel. Good as new! and it will look original...

Is it the same one that didn't even work? Just change the face... You can still use it...

I got one but it chipped in one side... free... Its just getting more fucked up everyday...

I wasted that an more on my truck. In so deep, not worth giving up. LOL! Good luck man...

HRH... Those aint cheap... Mike? Can you make us some on the cheap???? http://www.prestostore.com/catalog.php/azcarbum/pd858282

OHH MY F GOD! Thanks for that diagram on building that tension retainer. I looked everywhere!!! EVERYWHERE for a idea or something. THANKS!!!!

Yeah Z train... I was planning to do that. But I cant weld and the welder wanted 10 buxs... I just went to the yard and found that Mazda one. I like yours since it sits on the side.

I am not sure what lower housing I am using. But my 74 has this similar housing. Only 3 Holes.... One for the temperature sensor, a egr sensor that looks like this. and the nipple for the water to flow... The EGR hole was to small for a sensor... And the water hole was to big.... I found this Miata housing and It should work I guess. I don't care about looks. Just function. I think you can even use your stock radiator hose. here is a better pic to see what I did The benefit for me is I have a sensor before and after the thermostat... I don't really have a fail safe thermostat... So the after market temp sensor will it tells me if the thermostat fails. I don't trust my "old" stock sensor as well... I also needed the extra hole for the sensor since I am still running the coolant hoses that run from the head into the intake and into the lower water housing. That extra hole is very useful.. Not only that but many stock housings are eaten up. Nice to know that there is others that do fit and are still available at the junkyard from a newer car.... There are some Mazdas that dont have that hole... Like this one... It's from a Mazda Truck, B 2000 i think.... But you will need a new upper hose...

I took pictures of a stock L series housing and a Miata housing.... THEY LOOK ALMOST IDENTICAL! The only difference I see is that the diameter of the outlet of the Miata housing is a tad smaller than the Datsun One... Here are the pics... I dont see why it should not work... It's your call.... YES! I Have the Miata housing since I know it should work! But It is your call...

The Thermostat housing I used was from a "unknown" Mazda FWD 4 cylinder From the 80's.... I believe a 1990-1996 Mazda Miata Thermostat housing will work as well and even better than the "unknown" Mazda fwd housing since its not bent up like the "Unknown" Mazda model housing. WARNING!!!! I have ++++NOT+++ Tried using the Mazda Miata Housing on my truck... This is how it looks all installed with the "Unknown" Mazda FWD housing on my truck... As you can see I had to use a different upper radiator hose. I placed my "stock" temp switch on the top of the housing. And I placed my After-market sensor on the front... Here is a picture of a Mazda Miata Housing. Its pretty much the same, but with out being bent up... I believe that the Miata housing can be made to work on the L series engine. I am Running the "unknown" Mazda housing for years with nOOOO problems yet. I have no idea if the Miata Housing will or will not work. But I dont see why not. It is up to you if you want to try it out... I take no responsibility for any damages... Thanks!

The first thing you have to do is have a complete long block assembled. The chain has to be in place correctly. The timing chain installed. The front pulley installed and also the oil pan and gaskets... It pretty much has to look like this... Almost ready to be installed... What you do before installing the pump is you have to have an extra oil pump shaft. YOU HAVE to have the correct shaft for your engine. L18 are not the same as L20b's and so on.... That is IMPORTANT!!!! Once you have your correct "extra" shaft you will do this mod.... You will grind the teeth smoooooooth!!!!! ALLL THE WAY SMOOTH... That is the shaft needed to prime your oil pump and oil system... Once you have that everything is EAZY! You install your shaft and pump and tighten all the bolts... You also add you oil, your oil filter and so on... Once the pan is well sealed and the oil pan bolt is in place tight. You poor oil and BAM! Your ready to prime your engine. What I noticed is you can use a 12mm socket to turn the shaft... What I used was this! It has the 12mm socket installed and the 12mm socket is placed it over this. Once everything is in place. Now you can spin your shaft counter clock wise!!!!! You spin that shaft until you see oil coming out of the camshaft.... Then you take out your modded shaft. Install your regular shaft correctly and your ready to roll... I take no responsibility if you make a mistake.... This is a general idea on how I prime my oil on a new l series engine. I might of left a few steps out. So its up to you to perfect this idea....

I made I discovery on this... Why not cut a hole in center divider and place the fucker in???? Like this... My other way will still work. I am a man of function and not style. YOU DONT have to cut your dash to make it flush... Add washers and spacers!!!!! If you fuck your dash to make it flush. Its all on you. I dont care if it has spaces and or it sticks out... All I care is that I can drink my soda with out falling on my lap and making people assume that I peed on my self. Have fun! Once again.... 1998 Ford Windstar back rear cup-holder. Get one from the yard cheap and experiment. My first idea is on the beginning of the page.

Well I took them the engine to them and now I paid to get the head redone by them. I sent them my extra rings and my valve seals. IT BETTER NOT SMOKE THIS TIME!!!! And I hope good compression as well...

Is that a gun rack? SICK!

I am in need of a good radiator support for a 620. Preferable a 1975 620 or newer core support. And a good valve cover. Mine is no good... Any model!!!! I prefer localy but give me a shout... Thanks!

Just pull it out or get another side engine. The engine is fucked or about to die. But why even bother with a l16? I would drive it till it gives you problems and swap in a hopefully better engine.

O shoot they be Taiwanese parts. I got it off the internet. Some guy had it locally when autoparts stores still supplied them. I dont know about now... They still make them. But shipping must be a bitch.... Anywho... My engine is out again.... :mellow: No pics cus its stupid taking pics of an empty engine bay for the 5th time...

You should think about adjusting the price. Rockauto has them for 10 buxs...

Oh pimp! Thanks for that link! :cool: :cool:

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The meet spot will be here... From 7:00 am to around 7:30 am... Then we head up to the BBQ I hope around 8am to 8:30 am... 400 N Lakeview Ave, Anaheim, CA 92807 (Mobil Station Anaheim Hills) My brothers cell is (310)-sven 5 sex-525fve.... Thanks... I also have a "small" meet spot in the Torrance area. Its the strawberry square around 6:30.... That is on Vermont and Rosecrans in the jack in the box. In Gardena. 1000 W Rosecrans Ave Gardena, CA 90247-2639

Jeremy might not be going. He wants to finish his truck for the Arizona Show.