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The 80s Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40 15x6j wheels. My Holly Grail wheels! This is the wheel stance/look I'm after. The closest I could get for now was I scored 4 used white w/blue & red pin stripes 15x6 wheels and 1 bonus white 15x7 for $33 a pop at a used tire shop recently (pictured below). They're scratched, 3 of them look identical if you squint your eyes real tight but if you look closely its not an exact set. The 4th one is the one that least matches the rest. But they look as 80s as it gets and that is what I'm after! They're as close to the Fj40 wheels look/stance as I can get for now. Still, keeping my eyes open for some low priced fj40s 🤞.

The odd thing is that with the old oil (quart short) it was easier to down shift to 1st and 2nd. Up shifting when cold was a bit clunky in 1st, 2nd, & 3rd. When it came up to temp all up shifts were good except 3rd. With the new oil (sta-lube 85 90) all up shifts are smoother when cold, 1st and 2nd still a bit clunky but better. When up to temp all upshifts are smooth like butter. But down shifting to 1st and 2nd is worse than with the old oil so far. Not sure what condition the clutch is in. I'm going to bleed the clutch fluid tomorrow see if it helps any.

If you're selling something on a platform like ebay and someone contacts you stating that they would rather communicate by means of personal email outside of the selling platform's messaging system, tuck tale and run. It's a huge red flag. I am subscribed to a sellers group on facebook with over 45K members and this kind of scam comes up regularly. Who knows maybe donald's ledgit but I wasn't about to find out. He asked me to message to a personal email outside this platform and also donald has 0 posts. I was suspicious so I searched the name on this forum and the above message came up in the results. Maybe donald is using a legit memebers name "beowulf" and giving out scammy email addresses. For reference he gave benzo the email address "eboardingc6@gmail.com" for beowulf. And he gave me "hooting37@gmail.com" also for beowulf. Maybe you should contact beowulf and ask him which one of this emails is the right one. Edit: I know this forums selling/wanted posting page gives you an option to use your personal email as a way to communicate. I don't use that option for security reasons.

Tranny, Transfer, and both diffs done ✔️. Everything went well aside from my rear diff having a few good sized metal shavings, and my tranny being a quart low 🤦‍♂️. That harbor freight pump is a must for this job, well worth the 10 smackers . I was about to order one of those pump-less hoses from autozone when I saw your post. Pump is the way to go for sure, thanks.

I was replying to Stroffegen's question. I believe what you posted is a proportioning valve. Even tho my brake problem completely went away. I was still wondering where this NSLV part was. Well I'm here to report that my truck officially doesn't have one, neither does it have a proportioning valve. I had already followed all the brake lines from the front of the truck to the rear a few times. But there was about a 1 foot section next to the gas tank that I couldn't see. So today I followed the lines again but this time I moved the electrical wires that were blocking my view out of the way and nada, no NSLV.

Just got a message from this same member "donaldrudicel775" one of my wanted post. I used to sell things online for a living. So I'm pretty good at spotting shenanigans like these.

The brass piece you posted is just a fancy "T" connector hose that the two brake lines attach to. Rock Auto just mistakenly sent me this hose. I needed a different one. What year truck did you take that picture from?

What ever you do don't forget to bolt the door shut when you leave. I'm more concerned about Californians migrating to Arizona than I am of illegal immigration.

The way i load pictures is using imgur.com . It's a free photo hosting site. Haven't looked into how much free space you have on the site, but all I use it for is for posting photos on this forum. 1. create imgur.com account 2. click on your user name on the top right hand side 3. click on "images" 4. click on the green "add images" button 5. click browse and choose the images you want 6. Once the pic is uploaded click on the picture 7. A pop up screen with your pic and a bunch of options on the right will pop up. I choose the option that says "BBCODE(message boards and forums". Click copy green button 8. When you paste the link in the forum you will get something like "[.img]https://i.imgur.com/MEu1Zib.jpg[/img.]" 9. You need to delete the "[ img ]" part from the beginning and end of the link which will leave you with https//imgur.cm/m eu1ib.jpg 10. Press enter I usually reduce image size to somewhere between 5 - 8 inches before I upload them to imgur. This will also save you space on imgur

I went with Sta-Lube 85w-90. $78.99 is the cheapest non synthetic I could find.

Good Ol' Autozone. I've had a few instances recently with online Autozone showing the correct photo for the part that I need. But what I get is not what is pictured. The part numbers are correct but the item is different than pictured. These brake drums just arrived and they don't have these threaded holes. This is the picture on Autozone's website. It took some serious pressure to remove the old drums even with the fact I used bolts in the bolt holes to pry them apart. Just looking for a second opinion on either just going with the hole-less drums, or looking elsewhere for the ones with the holes. I'm leaning towards looking for the ones with the holes. thanks

The redline mt90 sells for $76 for 4 quarts on amazon. This is why I was just going to put MT90 in the transfer. Since it will take almost 4 qts to do tranny and transfer.

With my luck, I'll have the same outcome ha. I think I'm going to look for a non full synthetic option. I still have a bad taste in my mouth from my accord incident. That oil change turned into replacing both front seals, timing belt, water pump, tensioner, oil pump O-ring, and serpentine belt. And since I always go with OEM parts unless they're discontinued. This cost me a pretty penny.

I'm about to order some Redline MT-90 GL-4 for tranny and transfer. But they only sell it in full synthetic. I know full synthetic motor oils can worsen leaks on older vehicles. I have first hand experience with this on my daily 94 accord. Do I run the same risk with synthetic gear oil?

As crazy as this sounds it probably wouldn't hurt to do this at a reasonable speed. Hahaha Is there a photo of where exactly this illusive little bugger sits and what it looks like? My brake line looks to be routed in its stock position. The line doesn't go into the frame and the line doesn't have a splitter of any kind that would show someone removed it. I spoke to the friend who sold me the truck and he said it wasn't locking for the short period he drove it. So for sure this happened from sitting for so long.

Could be. I had already ordered all new brake hoses, wheel cylinders, drums,pads and hardware. So maybe after replacing all that and adjusting the parking brake, this problem won't come back? I followed all the lines and I didnt find an NLSV. Although after quite a bit of research I still don't know if this truck even came with one of those? I'll keep my fingers crossed that was the end of that.

Well I'll be damned! I don't want to jinks it🤞 but the rear brakes aren't locking up anymore! I have no idea if I had anything to do with it. Or if it just needed to be driven enough to get the cobwebs out? What might've fixed it and that's a big maybe? I was thinking maybe the front pistons weren't working properly from sitting for so long (I'm no brake expert so this theory could be total bologna). In any case I removed the calipers and pressed the pistons like if I was going to fit new brake pads and then just cleaned/greased everything up and put it back together. Then I took it out for a test run. The first 4 hard stops it still locked up but I noticed I was able to put slightly harder pressure on the pedal before it locked up. After that, it was stopping like a champ. Who knows if this even fixed it, or if I just needed to drive it more to get the juices flowing? But there you go, worth a try if anybody else experiences this problem.

I just realized I hijacked your post with my 300zx talk, my apologies 🤠. Taking this post back to SR20DETs. After I went back and read your entire post. I saw the photo you posted of your manifold/gasket and it reminded me that I had tossed a turbo and a manifold in my junk pile in the back yard. They've literally sat in the dirt where the've gotten rained on for probably 8 years. It's the original t25 turbo that came on a black top s13 engine swapped 92 240 I used to own. Same hatch you have only white. The turbo wouldn't hold boost above 7 psi. If i remember correctly stock boost was 7 psi and I was trying to get 10 psi out of it. It would hold 10 psi up to like mid 3rd gear than it would drop back down to 7(I member that long ass 3rd gear hahaha). So I order a t28 from an s14 motor and boosted 12psi for a while. which I believe was the max on stock fuel/ecu, or possibly too much boost, I don't recall? I wanted the disco potato, but i was too broke to upgrade everything I needed to, to run that turbo. The manifold was a cheap aftermarket piece of turd that leaked. Honestly I'm an idiot for not taking more care of the turbo. It was in good shape. In any case I might decide to take the turbo apart and clean it up for shits and giggles. But if that doesn't happen I might just give it away. If I do, you can have it for the cost of shipping since you're the first sr20 owner I've chatted with since I sold the 240. The manifold you can have if you want it, you can use it as a boat anchor😆. Again my apologies for hijacking your post, If you want I can delete the content of my posts so it doesn't mess up what you have going on here.

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Damn, that would be nutz!!! If I had the funds I might consider it. I'm over hear nickel & diming myself to death with this 720 😆. Not including the price of the truck I'm about $1000 over what I was anticipating to spend to get this truck safely and reliably on the road. And it's still a little ways away. I've been out of the game so long I forgot how expensive it can get to play. Let's just say I could've got the 300 running with what I've spent.

I mean I don't have any experience with a Pulsar, but I'm not sure there's any 90's vehicle that is more of a pain to work on than the 300zx VG30DETT. I smashed my first 90 300zx TT into a wall about 10 years ago. Thankfully I went through the wall in reverse as I was spinning. So other than one of my side mount intercoolers having a baseball sized hole in it, the engine was fine. There was about $9k including parts and labor (Pitstop performance PHX AZ, Highly recommended for anything nissan performance related, by the way). Anyway thank goodness the car was trashed and we could zaw saw the engine out of it. I purchased this white 300zx to transplant the engine into it. But with all the excitement of finding a Pearl white/ tan interior 300zx in my small town for a decent price. I didn't look close enough to see the body and front right suspension were trashed and than fix in a backyard probably. The car must have been in a roll over or something close to it. So now its all up in the air. I can't convince myself to put this engine in such a mess of a car. But at the same time I know it's going to be near impossible to find a roller for a reasonable price now days. On top of that all of my vehicle project funds have been going towards resurrecting my recently acquired 1985 4x4 720. So no plans for this car anytime in the near or distant future hahaha.

A friends grandfather imported it from Saudi Arabia while he was with the military. My freind inherited it when he passed. And I purchased it from him a little less than a year ago. Measured the wheel base and its 9'3". Same as all 4wd 720s.

Locked up the wheels purposely multiple times and they release immediately afterwards, no resistance. I also took it out for a ride and the wheels are cool to the touch.