Stupid_fast

Those watanabe's are tempting, but I'm worried about the shipping cost. Can you get a quote to 94611? Don't care about the tires if its cheaper to ship without them. Don't look bad in the pics... Just strip the paint, clean them up, some polish and they'd look nice? Thanks...

Spark plugs .. Had a set of bosch in when I got the car, swapped em out with NGK's after first 200 miles or so and ran a lot better. Only spare dizzy I've got is dual point, really old and dunno if it would work. I disassembled it also thinking to rebuild it before I found stuck screws. Spare carb I have is a siezed up ancient hitachi. Did you read my last post? Raising the float made it better. Unless you mod it. B) Yeah I saw that... Does not tell you "how" to do it though, took a bit of searching. Its against my normal way of thinking to bend little parts like that. :P Cant find my caliper to measure it ... last time I saw it my brother had it. :( Thank you all, I'm going to mess with it some more and see if I can get it working nicely.

Ahhh, some progress!! So I opened up the carb tonight, and checked the float ... looks really low, so I raised it and now its a lot better! Bogging is decreased, stalling is also decreased. Still does both but I can take a sharp, flat corner clutch in without stalling. Still stalls if ~3000rpm, clutch in, brake to stop sign unless I blip the throttle. I'm going to try to raise it a little more tomorrow, see if I can find the sweet spot. I checked on the electrical stuff... Everything is as tight as the day I put it on. Seems good...

Hmm thats a really good idea, but ignition wires are all freshly crimped connectors .. new wires, ect.. I will double check everything and make sure its all nice and tight. All new ignition, pertronix ignitor with flame thrower coil. NGK iriduim plugs, bosch plug wires, reman dizzy... dual point modded the pertronix to fit.(like 2mm from pickup to the magnet) Again on idle sitting in driveway everything seems strong, revvs nice and smooth. Gonna try to adjust the float tonight. Thanks.

OK... No power brakes, I think its a stock master.. might be 280z one. Valve lash was set cold before 1st run, then hot 3 time since I've gotten it running!! Snug against all measurements .. I cant think of what that tool is called, gapper? Set to the hot L20b spec on olddatsuns.com after driving for an hour, less than 10 mins of sitting. I also sprayed some carb cleaner after JCCS(400 mile each way plus driving around LA.. about 1000 miles total), cleaned it up a bit. Ran a little better. I also changed the oil after I got back from JCCS. Plugs are fresh from before JCCS. Have not checked comp since like 50 mile mark .. it was at 170psi all 4 cyl +/- 3 or so deviation. (cranked engine for about 5 sec per test) Jetting is .. air correctors are(facing the front of the car) 170-160, pump jet is 50, primary are 140-140, 2nd idle is 50 .. .dunno didn't check primary. Seems OK for the motor not ideal but from what I've learned should run good. I still gotta get a video of what it sounds like .. its really nice exhaust note.

@hainz, yeah accel pump squirts nicely. new low profile adapter plate put on correctly with gasket sealer, no cracks, new intake/exhaust gasket and tightened down with new bolts... @radiant-, I have nothing in the fuel line except for a filter. Its a new kyosan pump... Sounds like thats the problem, I don't have a return line. so a pressure regulator should make it better? And how to adjust the float?? Thanks. Something I noticed, when I revv it warmed up sitting in the driveway it seems fine, open the 32 all the way and no bog or anything, goes right back to idle. But it will also want to die when in traffic, 0-3mph moving...(toll gates) especially when it gets HOT (180 on temp gauge traffic... normal running freeway/backroads is like 150)

Always wanted to know what 527's would look like on a 510!! Very nice, GLWS.

Haha, I'd like to see him build a rust-free SR510 for under $7k.

Idle is tuned, and timed... I will re-time it again since I've been messing around with the idle setting a lot. Idle is smooth and lean-best. Fast idle and all that is set now also, cold start is a lot nicer. I am looking at olddatsuns, I don't see anything for weber floats ... edit, on their link to "weber 32/36" on page 3 there is this, "Six(?) longer bolts take off the top of the carb and remove one tiny little E clip. This is the top cover showing the floats. Carefuly not to bend the clip they hang from. Bending that clip up or down even the slightlest amount is how you adjust the level of fuel in your fuel bowl." I've been in that part, so should I just lower the floats and see if that helps the stalling?

Hey, for ball joints I noticed on rockauto they have two different ones listed for 1972 510, 11mm thread and 14mm thread. Maybe you got the wrong ones? I'm looking to get those soon for mine. I was wondering which ones where correct for the 510!

Hello, I've gotten most of the issues worked out on my car so far. Its got about 1500 miles on it since the first start. Engine is a rebuild L20b, everything is new. Carb, fuel pump, plugs, wires, dizzy, coil, ect. When I come off the throttle and clutch in suddenly, in traffic, braking for a stop sign, it will stall. Usually this happens on hills or under breaking, it stalls less on flat areas. I searched it and found that webers have this problem, I found adjusting the float can fix it? I cannot find any sources on how to adjust it properly. One said your suppose to bend the metal piece its held on to adjust it? It wont stall if I feather the throttle while clutching in, then coming to a stop or cornering. I can keep on the power around corners, up hills, and there is no difference besides the normal effect of fighting gravity. Only happens on idle. Holding still or starting up it always has a pretty smooth idle. I fixed one small vacuum leak which made it run overall more smooth, but the stall problem was still the same. It runs pretty strong, if I ease onto the throttle it will respond well and give good power, but if I suddenly get on the throttle it will bog for a second then go. Also going around a corner, if I don't gently get on the throttle it will bog. I'm pretty sure this is just jetting, I have not messed around with it besides just getting the jet sizes. Ideas? Thanks..

RB25?

Uh yeah, what is haising a bearing? Even with all the noise, I've just learned to double clutch into every gear that would grind otherwise, I suck with manual gearbox so its a good POS to learn on. Its strange because I cannot hear/feel any chatter while applying power ... even full throttle. (now with broken in engine) Only on engine braking ... sometimes when aggressively pulling out the clutch in 1st(big hill, ect) it will chatter/grind a bit, if I don't double-clutch into 5th it will also chatter/grinding noise. Mine does not chatter at low speed in 1st/2nd .. As for the blocks, I had the wrong u-bolts so I never dropped it. still waiting for those to arrive. New diff oil, didn't make a difference. It didn't seem better or worse after 400 miles/ 6 hours drive to Los Angeles, 70-80mph the whole way. I think the best solution is to rebuild the trans, or get another one to drop in.

Wow those pics are good. That show was awesome.

Hmm interesting, I was considering buying this game. It seems like it would have similar gameplay problems like far cry 2, I am always wary of free-roam style games.

The owner works at my local Oreilly's .

Well, I drove it around as much as possible.. put 450 miles onto it, changed oil, and now I'm in Los Angeles with it! Here's some pics from my last drive(in the bay area) That was on skyline boulevard (highway 35) too much fun. Carb needs to be rejetted, I need adjustable TC rods to align it, and RCA's to stop that annoying bump steer. But... it works! Thanks to everyone who helped with tech info!

Finally got all the mechanical sorted out and started on my interior ... Loving the new carpet kit! Almost makes me forget I need to repair my floor pans! Matches the acura seats perfectly.