metalmonkey47

I bought some universal ones off Ebay and set them up on the frame under the tailgate on either side of the license plate. Like Mike said, they do flash with the turn signals though which is okay with more. The more visibility the better.

OH MY GOD.... I am dying.

Welcome and congrats on your buy! Post lots of oics. We're all oicture whores here.

They all have a purpose. VG30DETT VG = Engine code 30 = 3.0L Displacment D = DOHC E = EFI TT = Twin Turbo Don't know much for Honda's and Toyota's and such, but Nissan I know pretty well.

Until I blew out the torsion bars, and rode bottomed out for a month. It's been about a year I had them without an issue. And I bought the cheap ones from AUtozone.

From Import Alliance. I think the car is really set off by the rims. The fitment is PERFECT. _DSC0035 by metalmonkey47, on Flickr

Sadly not an option for my. I need lots of flow for my motor. Now I suppose if I had a hand made header with a collector a few inches higher, this would be much easier. I thought the very same thing....but damn that pipe is expensive.

pinto shocks are noticeably different provided you keep your ride height within their dampening range. I saw a night and day difference over the stock shocks. Rides like a cadillac....welll....rode. Until I blew em out.

If I put the camper on the UTE I can live in it right? Who needs a house anyways?

Welp to clear it up, the issue is SOLVED. Yayyyyyy... Well mostly... To clear it up about the header, it is a thin flange header, but there are tabs welded around the sealing surface to solve the issue you guys are reffering to. I need a better header though. The flanges are not even close to flat or even. It leaks like a sonovabitch, but the Nismo gasket helped a TON. Anyways, I chased the issue forever and it came down to a clog in the idle jet. I cleaned the jet out multiple times, blew air through it, soaked it in carb cleaner, etc. Looking through it seems to look clear and pushing some wire through it it IS in fact clear, But I found every time I start the truck, fuel pressure in the circuit is pushing the clog around in the jet. Shut it off, and the media falls to the back of the jet where it wasn't visible. I figured this out by swapping jets around from my 32/36. Now I have a very unbalanced idle circuit so it's kinda problematic. I can't get the media out of the 38/38 jet so I'm running a 60 in one barrel, and 45 in the other where they ideally should be matching jets. Causes all kinds of weird issues. I have an issue transitioning from partial throttle (light cruising or idle) to heavier throttle where the engine just seems to want to die for a split second. I can only guess at this point it has to do with the un-balanced idle circuit. I need to find a way to get the media from this damn jet. i can kind of see it, but it doesn't seem to want to come un-lodged from the tiny jet.

Welp that sucks....I really like this thing. Can I take out a loan on top of a loan?

More or less haha. I don't plan on getting another. I have SU's sitting on the work bench getting cleaned up, I'm just waiting for UPS to deliver the manifold. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gtAvYbEqyvM In the video you can see the only way it runs is if the choke is closed to the perfect place. Other then that, it refuses to idle. Revs GREAT and I even drove it down the road and back, and it ran perfect other then it's refusal to idle. I cleaned out all the passages, and opened the carb up, completely disassembled it, and blew out every last passage with about 90 PSI. No change.

I had a tall adapter, but it was home made and the sealing surface wasn't flat. Didn't leak that I could tell, but it was so poorly made that I'm sure it was causing all kinds of restriction issues. I pulled this adapter off and there is one crack in it, but I was already aware of that. A corner was chipped and it cracked, but away from the sealing surface. It's been JB welded up to ensure that it wouldn't leak, and seems to be fine. Only issue I seem to be having now is that it refuses to idle just like the issue I had on my 210 back in the day when I didn't have 12v at the idle cut solenoid. No solenoid here though, just pure jets. I've blown about 20PSI through the passages and didn't see any difference. Cleaned and blew out the jets by hand. No gain. I think I have a big clog in the idle passage, and the air I'm blowing through is passing the clog and coming out the air jets. I'm gonna try plugging the air jet with my finger and see if I can blow anything out the idle passage. Also removing the idle mixture screws and blowing out there as well.

It has a one piece, and I think that may be where the issue lies. It's either a vacuum leak, or issue inside the carb at this point. I'll have it figured out by the end of the day today I hope. Can't afford another day down. I have a spare 32/36 that I can toss on to see if it's going to run. I'll pull the adapter and take a look at it now.

Manifold gasket was no good, but not the issue. It was leaking in a few spots. The header leaked at every sealing surface, and it looked like it leaked into the intake ports in some spots. Wonderful EGR style vacuum leak. The new gasket helped with the vacuum leak I had, but didn't solve the issue. Still NO idle, and poor running. Kinda feels like a big vacuum leak at this point. Ignore the spots in the picture where I cut the gasket. Had to slip it around some studs so I didn't have to pull the header off. New NISMO Header gasket. (9996-D11280) It's so nice! 50% thicker then FelPro, flexible, and tough feeling. Header no longer leaks from what I can tell...but the engine doesn't run long enough for me to know for sure.

WELP so the pump was an issue. But not the issue. It was pretty weak compared to the new one. BUT it wasn't completely the issue. I drove it around the block and pulling back in, it stalled. Now it won't idle, and runs like piss. Another look around with carb cleaner and I think I've found a vacuum leak at the intake manifold around cyl 4. I ran out of carb cleaner so I can't confirm my suspicions. However, it only took me 10 minuets to get it apart, and I have a new Nismo header gasket I've been meaning to put in anyways so I figured I'd just swap it. I can't get the header off the studs without cutting the exhaust loose, so I'm going to have to clip the gasket around the earlets to let the gasket slide around it. Not a big deal since it's not around a sealing surface. BRB

PLug wires are pretty recent. Probably about 6 months. I used my timing light to check from misses in the spark while it was running bad, and it was consistent, so I'm just gonna rule out spark. NOW this morning alone, I've pretty confidently figured out and decided that it has to be fuel pump related. I disconnected my underhood filter and ran it into a gas can to watch the fuel flow, and the filter stayed consistently low. Barely any fuel touching the media. photo:: Now with that said, the pump can't seem to keep up. WIth the truck running, when it starts to stall/run rough it looks like this: So if there's no fuel in the media, how the hell is any getting to the carb is my question? For shits and giggles, I ran fuel line straight to the pump to bypass the filter on the off chance maybe there was something physically wrong inside the media that I couldn't see. No change in running. Still misses when revved, and idles like shit unless we choke it. Soooo I've ordered a fuel pump, I'll have it by the end of the day.

Sorry guys, I was in a rush earlier and didn't get to type much. I did originally check the dizzy and there were no obvious signs of moisture so I skipped it. Seems to me the issue would be more consistent. Lets follow the series of events: -Broke down, truck wouldn't idle and had no power under load suddenly. No advanced warnings. -Checked jets, vacuum leaks, etc whatever I could on the side of the road. Still had spark so skipped that process. -Got it limped to Master-O-turbonics shop. Missfiring, wouldn't idle, ran like it was on two cylinders, but if I pumped the throttle or drove hard it seemed to settle out. -Got there and it seemed to be running fine at that point. Slight hesitation, but it still ran better and almost normal. -Left the shop and it ran good all the way home, except it didn't seem to idle consistently. -Got it home. -Popped the dizzy cap and took a quick glance. Nothing. No signs of carbon tracking, looked fine. -Cleared out all the passages with compressed air/carb cleaner. -Looked for vacuum leaks, found none, but found carb stud was loose. Made a new gasket and fixed the stud/crack. Now today.... Seems like I was able to get the thing to idle after a short time warming it up. The idle would jump up and down, until it was up to operating temps and it was fairly consistent from there. Tried to drive it, but under load it stalled again, and stopped idling. The reason I'm still focused on carb/fuel delivery is because when it's warm and idling strange, I can close the choke slightly and it will stabilize. Also, when it starts to stall, if I grab the throttle and pump it a bit, the extra gas from the accelerator pump seems to steady it out and it revs just FINE... Also seems pretty strange to me that the fuel filter under the hood is only getting about 1/4 full. Seems like it should have a LOT more in it then that. Hence why I'm wanting to focus on fuel delivery... It's very possible something else came about when I pulled it all apart. I have not checked the pump yet. I'm going to get a pressure tester from work and just measure it out. Should be simple. But, you guys are the experts here. I'm just here to learn so suggest away, I'm willing to investigate anything. I'll pull the dizzy tomorrow morning before work an see how she looks again. Got some WD-40 on hand.

No bueno on the dizzy. I played with it a bit and it's fuel starvation. I have a clear filter under the hood. Noticed it's not filling up past 1/4 full. It's new, I also have one back at the tank. It's about 6 months old. (until tonight that is.) I'm going to get a fuel pressure tester and a new filter at the back and check the pump up front. Gonna get a few feet of fuel line and drop it from the pump into a can of gas and see how that goes first.

Totally overlooked the dizzy. I'm gonna pop the cap tomorrow morning and see how it looks. I didn't notice anything when I was working on the carb, but maybe it's not tight and got some water inside. It was raining like hell after all.

Is it an open or closed chamber A87? You might like a single side draft DCOE 40 over a 38/38, but it will cost more money and be a little harder to find a manifold for a single side draft. A set of SU's would be sufficient and easy to find. Just post a classifieds add. SU's are bolt on with manifolds readily available.