metalmonkey47

I feel like every few months, I come across some stupid problem that ends up in a thread like this, and I can't seem to find a solution until someone points me in an unexpected direction. My truck is currently un-drivable and has been for 48 hours now. No bueno. LZ22 W/ about 5000 miles blah blah 38/38 Weber Matchbox dizzy etc.. Driving it in an all out downpour, came under a bridge and it started to stutter. Came out the other side and it fell flat on it's face. No idle, no throttle, etc. Just dead. I pulled the carb apart on the side of the road and fought with the jets looking for a clog of some sort. Opened the carb and the bowl was full. Pulled both primaries and found nothing. Same with the idle jets. Put it back in and started it and it ran okay for a second, revved fine, then choked and died. We managed to get her going just well enough to get it down the road to Master_o_turbonics who built to motor. The whole drive it ran like piss, refused to idle, and I had to drive it at nearly full throttle pumping the throttle at lights to keep it running at lights. The more load on the motor, worse it ran. Got it there, and for some reason we can't figure out, it ran just fine. No problemo. We even managed a squirrely burnout in the parking lot. I left and headed home and it ran 'okay' but seemed to be lacking in power.... it also struggled to idle at lights. I've had issues with this adapted getting the carb to seal because of a crack on the adapter near on the threads for the stud, but remedied that by packing some JB weld on the outside of the adapter, and JB welding the stud in place so it didn't slip on the garbage threads. When I got it home I found that the stud on the corner was a little loose, and I checked for vacuum leaks around the carb with some carb cleaner and strangly found nothing. I went ahead and made a new gasket for the base, and fixed the stud again to get it nice and tight hoping it was just a fluke vacuum leak but that wasn't the case. Now I have little to no idle, and no power under load. Revs 'okay' at best. Seems like the issue has to be carb related. Or at least, acts like it's starving for fuel...but I'm no expert. ironic, because I was actually driving to see m_o_t to buy a set of Z car SU's when it shitted out.

Weber 40 is a side draft (except some very rare down drafts I've seen one of) so NO your 32/36 manifold won't work. You can get an outlaw 38/38 which will be a nice increase. But only if your motor needs it. L16? L18? L20? Stock cam, head? etc.

Wow awesome stuff guys! Farmer, I saw how you did yours before and really dig it! It's too bad that my header collector comes out too low to do anything like that. Dawa, yours looks fantastic! I'm hoping to get something setup similar to that... mine is tucked as close to the frame/crossmember as you can get from below but my biggest problem is still ground clearance. My pipe is SMASHED from going over speed bumps.

Also my favorite Lambo. The Diablo SV and GTR. Took these pics for one of my old blogs. I'd love to see a Diablo GTR in person...

IMO, one of the best looking Ferrari's

Trying to see how you guys are getting around come of the clearance problems of exhaust on a short bed 620. I'm gonna have to re-do mine soon, since when it was done about 1.5 years ago, I was much taller then I am now... It's beaten flat and caved in in some spots. rattles on the body, frame, etc. I scrape it everywhere. Any suggestions on where to route it would be awesome. I'm looking to get this 100% replaced from header back in the next month or so.

Bumper = partstrain.com http://www.partstrain.com/store/details/Nissan/620/Replacement/Bumper/1975/Base/4_Cyl_2-dot-0L/660.html?location=Front

Holy hell shitty welds everywhere. Look to the right of the tailshaft/output shaft.

Sorry, forgot to post here! I was kinda excited to see that considering I just broke the grill on my truck, and forgot to mention here. If it's a big deal, it's all yours, don't wanna step on toes since I wasn't paying attention. I'm not gonna die over a lost grill haha Here goes nothing. Weber 32/36 DGEV Ran when pulled but has some issues that need to be addressed. I drove on this carb for about 2 years. It's NOT a 5A (IE it's an older style with a single feed idle circuit) It's been jetted for my LZ so it WILL need to be re-jetted. Air and main jets are drilled so they don't match what's on the jets. Could probably stand to have all the diaphragm's replaced. The accel pump is new though. The choke lever that runs from the choke arm to the choke plates fell off and disappeared. Not sure if you can buy them or not, but anyone can make something to replace it. You can have it, just want shipping cost. Like I said, it came off my running motor, but I don't want anyone to put it on thinking they're gonna have a perfect carb. I got it for nothing and ran it for 2 years. I'll also toss in the ghetto hand made adapter that came with it. BUT it requires you to run a shorter air filter.

Welcome! Good introduction. Got any pics of cool projects to post here???

I love it!!

Driving the company car (versa) the other day, had a guy pull out in front of me while I was doing about 65. I moved to the left lane to let him pull out into the right lane, trying to be nice. He pulled out, aimed for the far lane, but never made it.Ended up driving down the road in BOTH lanes so I had to lay on the brakes as hard as I can to keep from parking the tiny Versa in the back of a Q45 at 65 mph (woulda seriously fucked me up.) Made it around on the right just in time, turned out the dumb bitch was on her cell phone and looked at me with a stupid face like I did something wrong.

Backfire from exhaust or intake? Might try backing your timing off a degree or two.

Fucking hell. You're saying just spin the clip backwards eh? I tried that, but didn't think of using pliers... I tried two flay heads, but it was hard to get em both in there and push evenly.

My LZ is pretty torquey

New shift boot. Military aircraft overstock. Got it from an antique store today!

Been a while since updating. Kinda bounced around a few issues since then the 38/38 has 145 jets, which seem to me to be too small. Skipped to 160 jets (had two of them sitting around) and the stumble went away, but it was running PIG RICH and flooding at idle. I went back to 145's. I can't get this thing to idle out properly. Seems like no matter what idle air adjustments I make, it ALWAYS idles rich. (Choke open and engine up to temp). It's been a bit of a bitch, but it's consistent. I'll figure it out, or I'll get side drafts. I'm ready to drop the trans again. LZ is leaking oil from the pan, don't know why, trans feels like it's falling apart inside, brakes get weaker no matter what I do, they seem to drag and not release. Fuck em, tired of playing. Buying Z32 conversion parts soon. Also ready to get rid of torsion bars. Ripped the key off TWICE in the last two weeks. Can't get the clip out that holds it in place so I just hammered it straight. I need to get a coilover setup on the front. Sad thing is that all this shit I wanna do I CAN'T do because I'm either working, (overtime doing nearly 50 hours a week ish) OR it's because I have to drive it the next day and can't afford to buy another car. Anyways, blah blah just figured this thread was due for an update. I need to get a lot done on my truck...I'm just not really enjoying it right now.

Just FYI, Nissan (Nismo) makes a header gasket for L4's.

I'm gonna toss up some stuff when I clean out my garage. May have a Weber that I won't need too..

Ouch, looks like it's been bumped in the rear. Any idea where the glass in the drivers seat came from? Looks like it's gonna be an awesome project!

You don't need a header for that motor. You'll end up loosing more then you gain. You can find an early L series exhaust manifold that's perfectly matched for the motor.