metalmonkey47

What is it that makes the matchbox better then the other elec dizzys? The physical location of the module, or is the matchbox a higher output ignition?

What's the difference? I was trolling around our reman distributors at Autozone and found that the late 70's matchbox ran about $200-$250 (i don't remember the exact number) without the module or with. Theres quite a few options. On the '80 720 L20B, the matchbox with the ign control module is a whopping $120 which makes me wonder, is this a crappier option then the rest? Is their any one that is really better then the rest?

Come at me bro

PM sent..

Do you need the top as well?

It means "metalmonkey gets to drive it 2 out of the 7 days of the week."

:rofl:

I have my eyes on a beautiful blue 1200 for monkeygirl. Selling for 2800 and seems to be in absolutely perfect shape.

It's Christmas time and everyone needs a little extra money is my guess. And we all make out like bandits

The trans usually mated for the 302/289 is the T5 (I believe) and the 300 is the T45. ( I think. Don't quote me on that. I haven't dabled with Fords in years) Like GG said, the you have is the better option. The T5 is known for being weak. They weren't designed to be very tough since they weren't mated to very powerful motors. It's a Borg Warner trans.

Bump for updates?

Colton got my vote

Hey dudes, got a tricky one for you. I need to replace my IGN switch in my 620. I've been dealing with these SHIT Duralast switches since I bought one new, and I've replaced it 7 times in the last few months since I got the truck because the plastic contact plate on the back falls apart and eventually is trashed. Before you shit on "Duralast" parts, they're not manufactured by 'Duralast', this one in particular is manufactured but Wells, who is the leading manufacturer in electronic replacement parts and seems to be the default carried by any/all autoparts stores. I know I'm not the only one that's had this issue, so I need to know if anyone has worked out this problem before or found a QUALITY manufactured part. I checked with the Nissan dealer, but their parts computer for the old school is gone to shit and they can't get me a P/N, so I'm kind of fucked out of OEM unless someone might be able to dig up a Nissan P/N.

bump. someone take this. I really don't want it sitting on my desk. lol

Sorry guys, been delayed getting back to you on this. Gonna try and find some time for a compression test tomorrow. Anyways, I don't see a lot of oil loss. I've only lost about 1/2 quart within the last 3K miles :rofl: It just seems like lately it's been pushing a little more oil. 29 degrees this morning and still doesn't blow even the slightest bit of smoke. What I may do is set up a cheap catch can temporarily.

beutel rubber is what you want. You can buy it in a big roll from any autoparts store for around $8. I use it for sealing in vibrating parts and filling tiny holes that leak.

Bought this for the Y connection with the bleed screw. Now I don't need it. $10 shipped obo. I payed $22 shipped. I really don't need it and want someone who may be able to use it to take it off my hands. I don't like wasting good parts.

Welcome Key an eye on the ATL craigslist. Quite a few 510's have been changing hands the last few months.

:rofl: so true...

Wonder what the one in this video is making..... "cough cough" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FgGzSNvGjDo&list=LLmtK7i2ueGL2Lu09Qh_EQyw&index=1&feature=plpp_video

Wheels/tires. :D

I'm sticking with the L20B carbed. DOn't want EFI, OR an electric pump. All Datsun is ftw. I'm gonna try and work out a return line. God AN fitting are expensive,

Bumping for the event coverage video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YVv3VdR9i90