metalmonkey47

It's this thread again? :confused:

Have you confirmed it's fuel/spark issue yet? Not hard. Wait until it's behaving badly, take a can of starting fluid and spray into the carb. If it starts, fuel!

Like Lacaon said. L20B is quite different from the A15. I found most power made from my A15 at about 5 degrees, and it hated advance however my L20B @ 13 degrees runs great on 87 octane. If you don't have a timing light, you can try it by ear. I think I recall DatzenMike at one point mentioning just to advance it until pinging under light throttle and then retard it a few degrees.

Niceeee. Gotten it in yet? I wish I had the money to get one before his last run.

When you get the studs, note the part number on the bag for us :P Discount tire or Butler Tire (If you have one local) would be a good place to check. Beware, Butler will try to sell you a set of hideous rims to go on it and likely has an ugly yellow Lambo out front.

:rofl: Truth sir. I was on my way home from work and didn't have a lot of time to talk. so I was trying to make time for both since I was on my break. So here is a video of no talking and only noise. (starts at around :40 seconds) You can hear me coasting with my foot in on the clutch at about 30mph. I kinda agree with the carrier bearing. While it's new, it's the only thing that hasn't been checked 100%. Would explain about where the sounds coming from too.

Have you checked timing? Running ignition too retarded (don't laugh!) will cause some pretty wicked backfires. 13btdc is where I get the most power. edit: damn you micro, you beat me LOL

Whaaaa and O'rielly doesn't have your bearings? :geek: So you get in the ZONE :thumbup: $25 is pretty steep. Haven't looked at bearing prices in a while though. Our's are Timkin (ignore the Duracrap box you get) which are pretty great. Sounds like your districts prices are up in the air though to be honest.

I've done about 65 in my 620. Nothin but a header and a weber. And 4 speed of course :rofl: L20B screamin the whole way. I have no tach, so screaming is the best you get :P

Go to Autozone. Just a few bucks for the inner bearings.

Interesting. Where did you buy those?

For some reason, I think this build is gonna end up like that 620 we all know and hate...

Alright so heres the deal, I went over every inch of the truck, intentionally loaded with lots of weight. There's absolutely no play in the tailshaft bearing. U-joints are perfect and were replaced when I did my clutch about 8 months ago. I was wondering if it might have something to do with my driveline angle, but I'm not educated well enough in that area to know what I'm looking for. Motor mount and tranny mounts are brand new as of about 4 months ago. My exhaust is routed right by the torsion bar, but doesn't look like it's been rubbing, however I found that it HAS been rubbing the axle in the back. I don't think this is going to be my issue because when I unloaded some weight, I recreated the same situation as before, had the same noise, but now have a slight whine from something. Well, not exactly a whine but I don't know how best to describe the sound.

Nice! What motor is that?

Sorry guys, I have had a busy last 24 hours. She's in the driveway on ramps right now! And I think I found it. We will see later ;)

Mike, just gotta know where to look! Thrush turbo mufflers at Autozone are $22. You can get a stock quiet Walker SoundFit from Autozone for about the same price. Stock is good. Magnaflow sound good if that's what you're looking for though.

Here you go. Made a video on my way home for lunch. The video tells all! CLICK

A series don't exactly 'slide' off and on. Total PITA to be honest. Get in the ZONE! :rofl:

I know of a friend with one :) I guess I'm a rare breed? It makes almost no sense to swap an L20B for another motor in your situation IMO. What you'll spend on building on swapping it will easily blow your 'fun' budget. Not to mention, kill the time you could be spending behind the wheel. L20B is sooooo right... Rebuild it. Nice mild cam, closed chamber head, side drafts, and you're DONE. Well... maybe a header and all, but you get it right? EDIT: Don't forget that car weights about as a few McDonalds Cheeseburgers. 160HP pulls like hell.

http://www.partstrain.com/store/details/Nissan/620/Replacement/Bumper/1976/Base/4_Cyl_2-dot-0L/660.html?location=Front

Or just replace the material with new shoes because I have a warranty at Autozone :thumbup: Albany brake shoes are garbage by the way... You can see quite a difference in quality between the Albany (Left) and the Raybestos (I think is the mfg) (Right) Note, the Albany was about a week old. Not sure if many of you saw it, but a while back I was having issues with a popping that I thought at first, was king pin related. Well after some playing around, I narrowed it down to the rear passenger wheel. In the process of replacing the rear shoes, I found that the last person to replace them removed the parking brake return spring on that side only. Would explain the dragging brake. It's just a minor annoyance. In fact, I don't really have the issue anymore after replacing them (lubed it all up really well) but I still need to source out the spring. I spend 6 hours total on the brakes. About 1.5 trying to clear up a brake adjuster that was frozen solid. Finally ended up heating it up with a blow torch and knocking the star wheel out with a hammer.

Can't wait!

Use Mothers or Meguiras 'Cleaner Wax.' Pretty intense stuff. http://www.meguiars.com/en/automotive/products/a1216-cleaner-wax-liquid/

Yup, that's a 620 bumper