metalmonkey47

FSM suggests when 1 brake is dragging, a possible loose wheel bearing is suspect? Is this probable? It would be very strange for the brake hoses to be the culprit, since this problem wasn't present prior to changing my front shoes... I grew up with the understanding that generally when something breaks on a car, its because of something that has changed... everything on that drum changed but still isn't working.. I need to pull the wheel apart again and inspect it. The brake hose looks like it's only a year or so old. The crimped metal connections are even still shiny.

I guess the only way to confirm that's it is to open the bleed screw on the wheel cylinder and see if it still drags? It'll be Wednesday before I get the hose if I order it tonight, and I'd like to be sure that's my problem first, so if it's not I can keep investigating.

Nope, that wasn't it. I switched it around, re-adjusted them and the driver side STILL DRAGS. I noticed with the drum on and tire off, it turns freely, but once you apply a large enough amount of force on the drum (bolting up the tire) is when it starts to drag. I can loosen the adjuster but it feels the same regardless.

15x10 with 225/60/15 on the rear and 15/8 with 205/60/15 on the front = perfection!

Just realized this... my brake adjuster is in backwards on the drivers side, where it was dragging. Might this be the reason it's dragging regardless of adjustment and the passenger isn't? My driver: My passenger: Adams:

By the way,,, this is how the old brakes were set up... For some reason there were two large springs on this side, rather then the smaller on top then I'm used to.

Thanks guys! As always you guys give the best, most informative responses. I promise, the adjuster slides nice and new! I spend 8 hours today cleaning up everything and putting it together. I had my best mechanic (monkeygirl) working on it :thumbup: The adjusters alone were about 2 hours cleaning and polishing. They are soooooo smooth. Tadaaaaa!! Too bad the shoes are backwards :(

Good call guys. That must be it. I thought it was strange, and the brakes came off like that, so I put it together how they came off. The passenger side works great with no complaints, so I'm not sure why the driver didn't. My driver side wheel spins free when it's on the truck and driving and doesn't feel like it is, but is still dragging like a mofo. I can smell the burning brakes when I go a few miles down the road and that's no good on new shoes.

Didn't the 510 wagons have an H190?

I don't see anything mentioning that specifically in the FSM. I got a spring set from Rock Auto and matches the ones that came off of the truck, so I'm not sure those are going to be an issue. I pulled the drum off while it was dragging and the shoes are fully retracted, so I'm not sure why they'd be dragging. I turned the adjuster in all the way and still they drag. Gonna go back and look it over again. It's really time for a front disk conversion now :ninja:

I just got finished replacing my front shoes on my 620, replacing the hardware, and soda blasting/lubing the adjuster and now that I'm trying to adjust the brakes I've noticed that the brakes drag like a sonovabitch even with the adjuster turned literally all the way in. :confused: There's not a lot more material on these shoes then the ones that came off, and on the old brakes the adjuster was out quite a big (maybe 1/2-1'') and now it's nearly in all the way and still dragging...

I'm a professional Automotive Retail salesman :thumbup: Get in the zone!

Well folks, we're in luck!! I stopped by the Antique shop about 1/2 mile up the road yesterday and it turns out they're having a car show from 12-5pm on the 22nd. If we can get everyone together early enough, we could make a big showing :)

Got the timing perfect :) Had to flip the timing plate over and it lined up perfect. I had a backup pedstal also that helped.

Drift truck you say??

Tristin. -The 240 belongs to a member on here PleadingBark down here in the ATL. I'll be getting more pictures of it soon! -Those three weren't hardly edited. The only thing really done with the bimmer was lightening it up, since It came out under-exposed. -That picture is pretty cool. How did you bring the color in the sky back out so well with what little you had before?

SU's are great, and IIRC is what BRE ran on the 510's back in the day on the L18's. And yes, Mikuni and Weber DCOE side drafts have the same mounting flange.

Nevermind! Got spark now, I just accidentally mixed B and C wires on the dizzy. She's running like shit though, so I gotta check firing order/ignition timing again. BUT she runs sooo.... hell yeah.

Alright guys, I got it now :thumbup: Well for the most part.... So I have it swapped and 180'd the wires to match the new rotor position. Got the dizzy on, wired, and I have NO spark checked from the ign coil. I have it wired identical to the old remote ignitor that I just took off. In fact, i used a matchbox module on the remote ignitor dizzy last. B on module to Coil + Ign 12V to Coil + C on module to Coil - Gonna try running an extra ground wire and see if that helps.

I got the pedestal, but I'm just gonna make my own timing plate out of Aluminum ;) I don't think those are going to be an issue. Correct/incorrect pedestal should be irrelevant to rotor position right? With the remote ignitor dizzy, the brass on the rotor is pointing towards the steering column, and the matchbox the rotor is pointing 180 degrees opposite. Literally exactly opposite. :geek: Call me crazy, but shouldn't the rotor position be EXACTLY the same regardless what dizzy is being used and what pedestal is on the timing cover? Those are only relevant when setting ign timing right?

Got them already ;) You'll see tomorrow why I haven't changed them yet :sneaky:

It's not any different when braking and doesn't pull from side to side. No mount tabs are broke/bent/cracked, but I did notice one thing that I'm going to post pictures of that may help. Theres no play in the kingpins or any suspension components for that matter... Except my leaf bushings are literally gone. Needless to say, herp derp Datsun drama.

So I may be over/under thinking this and if it's a stupid ass question, excuse my derpishness.... (In my defense, i haven't really slept in days...) I pulled off my remote ignitor dizzy to install my matchbox dizzy today, and I noticed that the ign rotor on the matchbox is pointing completely opposite from the remote ignitor dizzy. And I know that the shaft has an offset pin so you can't put it on backwards... so er uhhh...what in the fuck do I do. Oh also, WTB dizzy timing adjustment thingy for a matchbox dizzy. Cuz the one on the remote ignitor dizzy is WAY the fuck different. Totally different ball game.

Black Bimmer by metalmonkey47, on Flickr Dumped Merc by metalmonkey47, on Flickr

That has got to be the ballsiest Datsun on the planet! Talk about a wheel stander.