crackerjack69

Iirc it's a flowmaster muffler. Exhaust is 2'' coming from a longtube header. I love the sound now :D I haven't got a chance to open the throttle much, but I will soon!

I got a new camera on the way, so I can do proper vids and pics. The motor is about as cold as can be, and still starts right away! Idle is great right from the start. Not sure why it starts so easy when cold now. The electric ignition seems to be working great! Next will be stock tach install, LED cluster lighting, front suspension overhaul, and SU's :D

Got the cam in:

You got a meter or testlight?

I'm familiar w/ the big stupid smile phenomenon... Happens to me everytime I drive my truck. Must be a Datsun thing.

Oil pump was clocked wrong. I took out the bolt for the adjustment, and clocked the dizzy more than adjuster would allow... Scared the shit out of me when it started!!!! I'd been screwing w/ it all night, got used to it just cranking, then BOOM!!! Man the sound is obscene :D :D Big thumbs up to Mike and Bonzai, you guys are cool in my book :D

Mike, I'll track you down at Canby. It'll be my first Datsun meet, I'm excited. I'm running a remote module dizzy from a 78 620. I am using the EI coil from the same vehicle, and the ballast that was on my truck originally is removed from the circuit. I am using a GM 4 pin module. The hot start wire is indeed still being used. This setup is temp until I happen upon a matchbox dizzy :) I decided 2 things. The module wasn't grounded well enough, and I'm out of gas. I'm off to the fuel store, and I think it will start now that the ground is corrected. I have no idea what it will sound like w/ the new cam. When it was in Phlebmaster's 620, it sounded awesome.

I'm gonna wire my tach in someday. I have the newer harness in a box somewhere, the one w/ the tach connector on it. Thought about putting the whole harness on my 72, but I want to keep my blinker switch cuz I don't use a clamshell and the new style blinker switch is ugly. Guess I gotta get the motor running bfore I need a tach :D

Ollz, wonder what the shipping to Canada would be for a beer :D Yah, #3 turned into #1, and re-adjusted order. The rotor is pretty dead on under the wire. The spark at the plug should be blue right? Mine's red and dim white... I'm positive I timed it right when I did the chain, and have re-checked in this fashion: put thumb over #1 spark plug hole feeling for compression. Rotate crank to top of stroke. Remove oil cap, cam lobes at 10 and 2. Timing mark on pully lined up w/ pointer. I removed the line from the weber, no fuel! will fix fuel level today, charge batt a little, and see what I get. I still think the spark is weak.

Gots spark at plugs but looks kinda weak... When I pull the coil wire off and crank, the coil shoots out awesome blue-ass lightning. I wanna lick it. But the sparks at the plugs are not as awesome, kinda redish and dim. I'm gonna put the normal points unit back in real quick and see if it changes. If so, the dizzy is a douche. Can't get wiring oics right now, but it's wired same as Mklotz's write-up :D I'm about ready to offer a half-rack of Deschutes for someone to come figure out wtf.

I put together the GM module setup, But still won't start. Starting to wonder if spark is weak. Then I realized w/ my front end jacked up, I didn't have enough fuel in the tank to reach the suction line, ollz. Dropped it down, but still no start. I wanna fill w/ gas and try some more, but if it still doesn't fire, I wanna swap the points dizzy back in for a sec to rule out any fuckery w/ my new set-up :D I've quadruple checked my cam lobes at 10 and 2 TDC compression #1 super fun good times for all night long. Re-checked plug wire order. Kinda stumped why it no workie.

So you mean the seal mounted on the timing cover behind the crank pully? Cuz that just pops right out. You can use a block of wood to push the new one in. The wood will stop when it hits the lip of the timing case, preventing you from installing the seal too deep. It is advisable to use a Japanese (I use Beck Arnley) seal, there's some China ones around. In fact, I think the Felpro gasket set I just got had a China one :( If we're talkin about the same seal, pull the belt, put your ratchet on the pully nut and wedge it against the frame. Then bump the starter to crack it. You won't be able to get an impact gun on it w/ the radiator installed. Wiggle and tap the pully till it comes off. Quick and easy :D OLLZ, I type too slow. You guys already got it before I finished.

Upgraded dizzy while doing some other modifuckations. I need a regular L16 dizzy for test purposes. Would prefer to trade parts I have for one. Hell, someone should just let me borrow one for 20 mins :D

That A87 you got came off of a normal looking work truck. It should be able to eat regular gas. Really think Nissan would produce a work truck that had to run on premium gas...?

http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/2702207428.html Pre DEQ 620 for $600!!!

http://iskycams.com/cart/ymm.php?keyword=710147 :D

Hard to beat $18 for set of 4 nos :D But yeah, a lot of their stuff is crazy expensive.

I hear of a lot of folks using Isky. Worth checking out. Also, people have the stock cam ground at a shop, that's how mine is.

I gots a Lincoln MIG, but it's flux, ollz. So you're talkin about the pre 91 style of subie diff? Or don't care which year?

Big Mexican kid offa CL. A Ratsun guy was gonna get it tomarrow, but was talkin about scrappin it. This kid's eyes lit up when he got in and started it. I told him how to lower it, and he's gonna maybe put a KA :D I think it found a good home. Just in time too. Now if I can just find time to pull the L18 and scrap the other truck, and move the goon, I'll be in good shape! Anyone wanna buy a 78 roller, lol.

SOLD!!!