yenpit

I ALWAYS replace both turn signal & hazard flasher units with heavy duty electronic flasher units........I use Novita #EL12 units, available at AutoZone etc. The turn signal & hazard wiring runs THRU the turn signal switch on the steering column. We find that the electrical contacts can easily be dirty etc with old congealed grease OR worn out/damaged, which could cause electrical issues like this. We soak the electrical part of the turn signal switch in white vinegar for a day or two, then clean well, then check that the contacts are clean, not corroded or worn/damaged. If good, use some dielectric grease on the contacts, lube up the moving parts & re-install! Other issues are bad grounds etc. Hope that helps!

Woah...........surprised to see that! Are TDI swaps really that common?

Hahahaha love the Toyota remark! Hell, I love the 1st gen Celica's & early Corolla's too!!

Well, even if somebody else DID a TDI swap, there surely wouldn't be a kit available. Only "kits" on the market I've seen are for the most popular swaps ie KA, SR from a couple USA suppliers ie CX Racing& a CA kit out of Australia. I like the idea! Have a VW buddy in Michigan that has done TDI swaps in non-TDI VW's & the Audi TT's................

Those do look like 280ZX rotors. Is there a part # on the rotor box? Nice clean 4dr! Those must be a JDM wheel.....?? 😎

You should also at least check or replace the C felt channel that the glass moves up & down in! When that felt channel gets old, it breaks up into chunks & jambs the glass from sliding smoothly, so that is one reason why the regulators wear out/break. Replacing the C felt channel is straight forward, but labor intensive per door, cuz gotta take glass out etc etc..............

...........also, a local buddy bought a 1971 510 Wagon.............they all had a live rear axle like your 200SX. He bought a complete 510 Sedan IRS set up from me & the rear floor section that it bolts to. During this "plannedemic", he knocked out the swap! Basically, he cut out the Wagon rear floor & cut n fit the Sedan rear floor section into the Wagon. That sucka can be slammed low!! Lots of fab work & welding involved! Not on the road yet, but the major part of that swap is done!

Hey leafspringer! Well, as we all know, travel was stonewalled by this CV19 crap, so I haven't made the road trip to Minneapolis & Greg hasn't come to Denver to visit his daughter! I still have some of the 200SX parts, but they are yours for FREE next road trip by either one of us! Don't have what you are asking for, just some trim parts I pulled that I thought would sell.............they didn't cuz rare cars! TJ

MANY people mix up the 280Z vs the 280ZX applications! It's mind boggling how often I have a 510 guy ask me if I have any 280Z front struts for sale............I simply correct them saying it is the 280ZX strut that they want! I have even had someone go buy the 280Z struts somewhere else, after I told them to buy 280ZX!! A VERY ROUGH strut tube vs spindle (camber angle) measurement is the 240Z/280Z is approximately 105deg vs the 280ZX is approximately 100deg, so approximately a 5deg difference. In other words, the strut tube is straight up n down 90deg to the table, the spindle shaft angles DOWN approximately 15deg on the 240Z/280Z vs approximately 10deg on the 280ZX. Hope that makes sense........... 🙄

I think most of the 70's into the 80's reverse switches are the same, having different part #'s for varying wire lengths & perhaps terminal style. We just bought a standard Datsun Z car 5speed reverse switch for a CA18DET swap that we are doing...........worked perfectly. I buy OEM switches, as the aftermarket seem cheaply made. I buy all of my OEM Datsun parts from Riley at Lynchburg Nissan in VA 800-443-2117 or parts@lynchburgnissan.com! He can tell you the details about the various part #'s, but now I see you are in AU, so find a good Nissan dealership that will help you with a classic Datsun!

How did you get in Blake's?? I thought they shut down 3-4 years ago?? They had a 510 in there 8 years ago, let me strip it completely down right there in the yard, even let me cut the front rad core support & tail lamp panel off, they scrapped the rest of the shell. I'm in Arvada, have a 1980 720 2WD parts truck & a 620 parts truck, if you need anything! TJ

Hey satorich, I'm in Arvada, where are you in Colorado? I don't have any Z24 parts, but have lots of L series, a 620 parts truck & a 720 parts truck! Let me know if you need anything! TJ

We often find that when the turnsignal/indicator switches wear out, that is one possible culprit, as most of the 70's Datsun headlight systems run thru the turnsignal switch! That is exactly what happened to my buddy's 510/1600 this weekend........guess I'll be cleaning up another USED turnsignal switch for him! I bet your 1978 is a similar switch to the earlier 68-73 510/1600 & Z car. We soak the switch in white vinegar for a day or two, then rinse/clean with BrakeKleen or carb cleaner to get the old congealed electrical grease cleaned out, then use a fine emory cloth/sandpaper to clean up the brass contacts.

Dang, I have a Z dash out, but I don't have a 510 with its dash out! HOWEVER...........the 280Z dash measures approximately 52in across & the 510 measures approximately 50in. If somebody DID install a Z dash in a 510, they would have to "section it" & re-wrap!

If that guy has a good USED clutch to match the L20B flywheel, you should grab that too, cuz I don't think the L18 clutch will fit the L20B flywheel.....? Also, as datzenmike pointed out, it is imperative that you get a MATCHING throw out/release bearing COLLAR (the bearing presses on the collar, the collar clips on the throw out fork)................the COLLAR matches the CLUTCH, not the transmission or flywheel etc!

If carterb can't help, I too have good USED! TJ Denver CO

I don't have the angle figures in front of me, but you are correct that the ZX work on the 510's.........the earlier Z car do not, for street use 😁 I CAN get the Z car camber angle if you want it................

.......again, I'm questioning the diameter of the early 810 strut tubes, cuz he wants to PRE-order the split collars. To me, they could be the early 2in or the later 2-1/8in......I simply don't know enough about the 810's!

Correct Mike! For 510's, you can only use the later 280ZX front struts, NOT the earlier Z car, cuz the camber angle is not good for a street car. I have a 510 SCCA racer in FL using 240Z front struts, cuz he actually WANTS that camber angle for track use! We use the 280Z struts in our 240Z vintage race builds for a couple reasons........more choice of strut inserts/shocks (diameter difference) & the REAR outer stub axles are apparently a l'il stronger (the 240Z outer stub axles have been known to shear/break, so we take no chances!) 😐 We also use T3's "stepped" negative camber bump steer spacers (not the simple street car spacers) on our Z cars, for that needed excessive negative camber up front!

The 240Z had 2in diameter strut tubes, the 260Z & 280Z had approximately 2-1/8 diameter strut tubes, thus the 2in collars don't fit................we need to know when buying coilover kits! That's why I question what the later 810/Maxima had......?? My boss had a handfull of 2in lower coilover collars laser cut to try to save a few bucks, which bit us in the rear cuz we like to use the 280Z strut tubes on our vintage race builds, as there are more strut inserts available for the slightly larger diameter tube! Now he listens to me more when I say "nuhhh uhhhhh, they are different!" 😆

I did the split collar thing some years ago, worked well, would do it again! iirc I also cut off maybe a 1/2 coil. What WILL limit how low you go is the wheel tire combo. I had Z 14in steelies on the 510 (originally 13in) with some slightly wider tires than a stock Z & the stock spring perch (sitting on top of the split collars) would rub the tires if placed too low........nothing to do with steering geometry or suspension travel, simply brought the spring perch down & contacted the tires. I don't like super low cuz you WILL lose decent driveability, but the 510 still had a nice lower stance. If you want LOW, go coilover, cuz the coilover springs & perches are very narrow, thus rarely make contact with tires! I have no idea what diameter strut tubes would be on an 810! The later Maxima's still used the L24 up into the early 1980's, long after the Z's went to the L28, so the 810 could have the smaller 240Z strut tubes OR the later larger diameter 280Z strut tubes...........if nobody can give you an exact answer, WAIT TO BUY the split collars! Sounds like a cool project! 😎

PS we just used a Pathfinder accelerator cable on a CA18DET build. Hooked right up to the half moon bell crank on the intake, fit the forked bracket where you adjust overall tension on the intake, was plenty long for a nice smooth "S" over to the stock accelerator linkage hole, bolted it to the firewall, simply had to weld an L bracket with a cut groove on the top of the stock 510 accelerator pedal for a place to "hook" the end of the cable. Haven't run the car yet, but looks like it will work great!

FYI, no offense, but hand shifting a gearbox on the floor doesn't really tell you anything. Sure, if you felt something wrong, it would be a bad situation, but the key to a good trans is in the synchro rings & bearings, which hand shifting can't help with identifying a potential issue. If you have any verbal history on the trans from the seller ie "drove & shifted just fine" or "we pulled it out of a wrecked low mile car!" or better yet, YOU had the opportunity to actually drive the car before it was pulled, great! At 40++ years old, it's best to open it up & inspect the synchro's & the front bearings (the other bearings do wear out, but one of the front bearings is VERY OFTEN worn out and/or damaged/coming apart! We rebuild EVERY 5speed we intend to install! If you don't mind the labor, put that sucka in, but there is a 50++% chance it will need attention...... 😁