Stinky

I've got a '78 B300 w/a 318 and 2 BBl that was a former ambulance. I'm converting it to a camper. It is going to sit for months at a time. I don't want the fuel to evaporate in the carburetor and clog things up in there. I've had good luck w/my ATVs, lawnmower and other small engines by shutting off the fuel and running them until they have run all of the gas out of the carb. Therefore, I'd like to put a valve in the fuel line and shut off the gas when I park it for awhile. The Q....if I put a valve on the line, should it go on the tank side of the fuel pump or the carb side of the pump? If I put it on the tank side, I could plop my fat posterior down onto the ground, reach over to the frame and turn the valve. On the carb side, I'd have to pull the engine's cover each time I turn the valve. I could also delete the mechanical pump and install an electric pump w/a switch.

The covers are the same.

OHHHH, you did notice that, that PU does not have a front differential, front axles, drive-shaft and about 3 cross-members pulled out of it. It is a PITA to R&R that motor because all that stuff has to come out. You can get the motor out w/o doing that (I have one, but I wasn't there when it was done, but you aren't getting it back in w/all that stuff in there. The pan won't clear the axles and/or differential otherwise.

I think that he has an extra zero in there. I don't care how clean it is. This pretty much lines up w/what Mike said. It MIGHT need a new head (not likely though IMHO). Depending on how much it is warped, if it is, there is a thought out there that the camshaft part of the head is warped too and that it would be clamped in a Jig and heated up and pulled back in to place or else the cam can snap.. I'm not sure that I believe that/this theory. Running, IMHO, it is worth half that. I just did a quick search, for a Nissan under $8K in my area.....I found one from $1,500 that won't pass smog and these 2. There are also a few others that are below $8K. https://denver.craigslist.org/ctd/d/denver-2012-nissan-frontier-4wd-crew/7937574515.html https://westslope.craigslist.org/cto/d/glenwood-springs-nissan-frontier-2003/7934196606.html

You need the spindle, the base and a carb distributor. The CAS can remain in there. I have an '86 D21 w/a '83 Z24 Distributor on it. It has the spindle, the base (which you have) and the '83's gas distributor on it and the ignition coil wiring from the '83. Lucky for me....a guy pulled in front of me and I T-Boned him. "I thought that I could make it." Therefore, I had already had the whole set-up from an '83. If you need pics, I can email or text them. If so, send me a PM. Or, I can try to post them here. I have heard that your TBI distributor will work w/a carburetor....but I don't believe it. When you change to the gas distributor, you are going to need 2 coils. You are going to have to reduce your fuel pressure. Your carburetor is designed to operate on, about, 40# PSI less pressure than your TBI.

If it is a long tail-shaft....I have one. It came from an '83 2wd King Cab. What part of the West Coast are you in? I haven't decided yet....but I may be going to CA in about 2 wks.

Did you prop your throttle blades open? If not, your mileage may vary (you aren't gonna get a good reading). What is your elevation? How many miles are on it? You say that it varies between 100-125....do you mean for the different cylinder readings? That is not good. It should vary between the cylinders by less than 10%. How does it run on the road? Does it burn oil?

I really agree w.#3. All the Weber air filters are Mickey Mouse.

#6 I have one of these on my 720. They no longer make it in the correct size. I think, as in, maybe, that I have a K&N filter on my other truck. They are on Amazon. I got these at Oreilly and Autozone....which I assume doesn't help you out one little bit. https://www.autozone.com/p/spectre-engine-crankcase-breather-element-3991/415841?searchText=spectre+filter&productPartGroupId=azpg1538&productBrandId=BGCX&productUniqueId=6584195233

If you can keep your Hitachi....do it. You don't gain anything going to the Weber. In my experience, the Weber doesn't work as well and it doesn't work consistently the same way. ON my truck, the choke doesn't always set. Sometimes I have to pump the heck out of it to get the pump to set. The fast-idle also doesn't seem to work the same way consistently. My Hitachi was real consistent. That said, when my float stuck closed, I didn't screw w/it. The Hitachi is more complex than a Quadrajet. I've done a Q-jet and I avoided the Hitachi. You can get your Hitachi rebuilt....it was expensive. I want to say that it way $400-$500 for the rebuild.

What size are your tires? That is a pretty big jump. I have 205/75-15s and 4.11 and that is plenty low geared. If you have 14s on, I couldn't imagine needing gears that low. What sort of rig do you have?

I've got a friend that is working on a 78 620. He needs a steering-gear box. Are there any other vehicles that have a compatible steering-box? Can a 720s box be rigged up to work? Is there a place that works on them?

Can you get the pan off w/o raising the engine? Or only raising it just a bit? My guess is that you don't need a new pan....I've pounded pans out before (Pinto engines sandrail and a Honda CRV). Of course Ford says that you need a pan, they have to stand behind it. I'd change the rod bearings. I would not change the crank bearings. Theoretically, it would raise the crank a micro-bit. If there is a ridge on the cylinders...that bit that ti was raised might be enough for the rings to hit the ridge (the rings are worn, rounded on the top edge, so that they do not hit the ridge now). BTW, I stay away from the stealer/dealer. Find a good, reputable private mechanic.

I didn't look at the colors....but, that is the same set-up for an 83 also. Like your 85, my 86 is different too.

My guess is that it would be easier to get the V-6 in your truck, with that transmission than to get the adapter correct.