Stinky

White smoke is water. Blue smoke is oil

My 720 has the pumpkin from a 620 in it. It was 3.55 and is now 4.11. It bolted right up

Silicone, it is not just for bosoms...you can use it to glue most anything. The last thing that I used it on was a tennis shoe sole. I used Black Ultra. If you have a place in your area that does Water-Jet cutting, they can make you another adapter. The set-up fee is about 50 buckeroos, then the plate, and time. The adapter for my Weber top, to a 6" circle, to make an air-filter adapter, for me, was about $75. I doubt that it was ur fault.

I'm trying to get my '86 4x4 D21 w.a 2.4 going and I need some help as we can't figure out where some of the wiring goes. My manuals are of no help. If you have one of these trucks, please look at it and tell my what you see....Please and Thank You. If you follow the wire to the distributor back.... you'll get to 2 grounds....where do these bolt to? At about the same spot, you'll find a wire coming off that has a plug w/2 wires, where does it go? The TBI TPS wiring, does that wire come out of the same wire that goes to top rear of the TBI? On the valve cover side of the TBI....you follow that wire back about 9".....and another wire comes out of the harness....where does it go to?

The question is not why we need suppressors.... BUT, why shouldn't we have them. That is the way that our system is set up.

Iridium and Platinum plugs last longer (and are therefore more likely to get stuck in the head), but standard Copper plugs run the best.

My bus ran on propane and had about 90 K on it. It would go to 4.500rpm, barely. 4k was more like it. I think (tis been awhile) that it ran at about 3K on the highway and I broke a valve spring.....so it didn't see as much rpm as my crown vic did. The other breakage was an exhaust manifold...maybe due to the propane exhaust temps.

Funny.... a 4.6 from a Crown Vic had a rep for durability, and they share about 75% of the parts

Fwiw....I think that a 460 is way better than a Triton v10...which, when they were in my schoolbus, didn't compare very well, durability wise, to my 86 720. I broke 2 dif school buses (and they both took a month to fix) and the 720 got me to work w.o fail. 2 yrs later, It hasn't let me down yet.

I don't keep all that close track of mileage. AFAIK, it is the same. AGAIK, the power is the same. It started better before....and it didn't run-on.

Somewhere on here is a guy's post where he made an adapter and then welded it into the stock air filter. I took a gasket to a place that does water-jet cutting. They cut out the gasket, but w/a circle around it. The circle is, about, 5-6 inches. I plan to cut the center out of my housing and then weld it in. This will give me a real air filter and a cold air intake.

If you change rear-ends....you are looking at $500. Rear-Axle, $200. Then a cut and etc rear shaft....last time that I had my U-joints changed, at a shop, it was over $100 just for that. Cutting your shaft, and welding the flange....I couldn't guess what it is gonna cost, but it ain't gonna be $100. BTW, when you buy your rear end, get the shaft. You are gonna need the flange. car-part.com Datzen brings up a good point....axle ratio. But, I bet that if you get an axle from a 4cyl PU w/195/75-14 tires, that the desired rpm is gonna be close enough.

Do you have a Hydraulic TO Bearing release system? Where there is no arm, and the TO Bearing moves hydraulically? That seems to be what you described. It seems like you've covered your bases. I'd say, try the deal w/the wheels in the air first, then drive it around w/your foot on the clutch (As previously mentioned). BTW, start it up, in Neutral, and get the oil circulating before you start it w/wheels on the ground. It might break it loose. I don't see how it could hurt anything and it might save your 2-3 hours worth of work (each way). Try it foot on the clutch, accelerate and engine brake. On my ATV, it was parked w/the brake on (The reason that I mention this is that brake and clutch linings are similar and both of em fused to the rotor and flywheel because of moisture). We couldn't tow it to break it lose. I don't remember what I did. I sorta think that it released on its own, after the WD40 or Penetration oil was applied and the brake was released, and I just let it sit. I'm not advocating WD40 on your clutch....pads are way easier to change

The reason that I think that you'll find it at the rear is that the fronts don't normally leak and that when they wear down they still work good. In the front...look for wetness and pads where one side of the rotor has a bunch more pad than the other side (Bad Caliper) What is your pedal like....high and hard? Or low and mushy? Does your pedal get higher/harder when you pump it (air or bad Master Cylinder). BTW, I left his out...on my Camry above, no leakage was seen. But, when you peeled back one of the WC's seals, there was wetness inside. We were trying to get this car going after it sat for a few years. Keep us posted....this is how we all learn.

I was of the same mind-set (Weber).....after putting on a Weber, I wish that I woulda had my stock carb rebuilt.