Stinky

If that falls through, let me know...send me a PM. I have one off an '86 2wd. I replaced it w/a PS box, and column.

You talking about the pic w.the yellow car? Toy-pu and a LUV?

Are you in Craig? I know the Proto there...w.the last name of smith. Tis Bookcliff Napa in Grand Junction

Napa....they make cables...even easier for them if ur housing is still good. They also make ac and ps hoses. I finally found a rear cable for my 720. About 2 weeks earlier then when I found it, I was a Napa trying to buy one. I dont remember what I went back to Napa for, but the last time the counter guy says that we make them...I kept my mouth shut. But, why the heck didnt the counter guy tell me that 2 weeks ago

The P-38s...in another book that I read, it decried the lack of available planes, 5 years later, when P38s were scrapped in, I think, Korea. At the very least close to Korea.

A little late, but I sorta like what Lozer said. I have used X.O.Rust (the True Value brand) and Rustoleum. They have it in a can, and a spray can and the 2 colors match. For the lower panels, you can brush it on...same as the roof. For the visible parts, use the rattle can. Depending on the color...tan, pale gray, sky blue, it doesnt pay to spray it. The lighter the color, the easy it is to get it right. 2 coats is more than enough. My Suburban is Almond...you cant tell that it was brushed, more than 10 ft away. The job is at least 5 years old. I wanted desert-sand/tan, but they didn't have it in both spray and can.

Ive read that planes were flown there, straight from the factory. Possibly is Stephen Ambrose's book on McGovern in WWII I know a guy whose dad worked there.

Did you look at Autozone? Napa has one type and Autozone the other (tilt and non-tilt)...assuming that the year is right (I was looking for an 86). https://www.autozone.com/electrical-and-lighting/turn-signal-switch/duralast-turn-signal-switch-sw1687/293069_0_0 SW1687 is the PN...the only thing that I am using to identify it is the intermitant wiper lever.

When I put it on, it would put out black smoke at an idle....rich. I put a regulator on it. I made a part....from a hardware store, I got a brass tee, a brass close-nipple, and 2 brass hose barbs and a small gage (about an inch around). I brazed a piece of metal to the T, and bolted it to the fender-liner I plumbed it so the gas went straight thru the tee and the gage was at 90 deg, facing up. Soooo, it is barb, regulator, nipple, Tee (w.the gage at the 90), barb. I needed to add some hose to it,, a few inches. In the winter, I was running .5#, or 1 # of pressure. When it warmed up, it would vapor-lock. So, now I am at 2-2.5#.

Oh...720s came w.an electric pump, I did not convert it.

Personally, I'd say run a good mechanical. On my 720, I am running an Autozone electric, off the shelf....in the aisles. But, it putvout to much pressure and I am running a regulator, with gage. https://www.autozone.com/fuel-systems/fuel-pump-universal&filterByKeyWord=fuel+pump&fromString=search&isIgnoreVehicle=false&model=fuel

Let me know if you cant find it. I have a complete box

You might try Phil's APs in Hotchkiss, CO. He has 3 720s. Blakes in Erie, Co has a rear glass for a standard 820...but they don't ship

Ahhh yes, you are correct.

You need to lube the back of the GM module w.dielectric grease to aid in heat transfer and the back should go flat on the surface that it is bolted to. And, as with all ignition products, avoid Chinese parts.