Stinky

If you have a good Napa....they can make one for you.

I wasn't aware that it was worthwhile to regap a Copper plug. That is a lot of effort for $8....$16 on a Z24. I've heard, that Copper runs better and resists oil-fouling better. The other plugs do last longer though

I just pulled my TBI off. Under the TBI is a black spacer w/a an electrical connection at one corner. It is possibly Phenolic (a black plastic, of sorts). The air, for the engine, is sucked through it. There is a checker-board pattern on it with the hole being filled w/the crossed plastic. It sorta looks like a MAF sensor or a heater for the fuel mixture. What is it?

Pull your carb's gas line as see how long it takes to fill up a 16oz plastic Coke bottle...it should be 20-30secs, or less. If you think that it is your carb, it is on the Primary side

FWIW...I'm at 4,500 and I have stock jets. You pretty much can't drive anywhere in CO w/o going over 9,000 and my truck has gone over 10,600 several times (Vail, Eisenhower, Red Mountain, Coalbank, and Molas passes are all over 2 miles high). On some of those trips I had something hooked to the bumper. I'm not sure that I've had a problem w/the jetting. Ohhhhh, I was looking at my carb today, and the arm on the choke came off. So, I know what you mean about cussing the carb. This explains why it is hard to start when it is cold

Mike, w.the Holley FI, you need a dif Distributor...maybe, for the same reasons that you can't run it w.a carb....The ECM doesn't "talk" to the TBI and therefore doesn't know what to do w.the timing. I.ve read threads from people that say it works fine and I.ve read threads that say their truck didn't run right after converting to a carb. I.ll know soon enough... For the most part, there are no TBI parts available...no rebuilds on TBIs (although there are gaskets and O.rings) and nobody rebuilds injectors. The F.n thing magically stopped running correctly...I dont trust it. Bottom line, I don't trust it. I expect to drive this d21 for 10 years and 100K, or more. If it runs right... tis "Chump change" AND I.ll get.my money out of it

Ggzila....moons ago my stock pump went out on my 720. I put a generic one on and had to much pressure. I added a gage and a regulator. I.m running at 2.5# now. When this started, I started dropping the pressure, w.no success. On my d21...there is a link above to the 550-552

Well....I'm going w/the Holley Fuel Injection. It, supposedly, will support up to 175 HP and it is designed to work on 144-300 CID motors (a Z24 is, ABOUT, 145 CID). I'll keep you posted. I want the above to last until they plant/scatter me...that was one of the factors why I didn't put a carb on it. One of the factors was that my 720 has a Weber on it and it has never really ran that great (I wish that I would paid the big bucks to just have it rebuilt) and I'm the only person in my house that can drive it right now....the needle is gummed up. I've rebuilt a Quadrajet, and the Nissan carb is more complicated than that....yes, more complicated than a 4bbl. My PU has an FP switch....if I couldn't turn the fuel pump off, I don't know if I could restart it....it floods out big time. Every time I stop at a light I have to turn the FP off. I'm trying 2 dif carb cleaners (actually not true, Seafoam and others won't do anything). Ethanol Shield got it to idle, but last night, it flooded out, AGAIN. I'm gonna try Mechanic in a Bottle....Chickinic has had good luck w/it. OOOPs, sorry, I was chasing a rabbit there. One of the Q;s is, will my stock Fuel Pump cut it. One of the specs that I see for a Nissan pump is 38#. Other pumps show more. I just put this pump in as the truck had been sitting for, about, 12 years. Holley calls for 58.5#. Holley didn't really give me a good answer on what it needs to run on...other than the internal regulator is set at 58.5#. I'm running w/the premise that it is very similar to the Nissan TBI and that it will therefore provide enough flow for it to be a non-issue....AND, I know that flow and pressure are 2 dif things. One of the hurdles w/that set-up is the distributor...The Q is how do I get the ECU controlled dizzy, if at all, to give me spark advance (I'm pretty sure, at the very least, that it will give me spark). I sorta have a handle on it. I have an '83 Dizzy. I'm not sure if I have an extra oil pump/Distributor drive. There is a yard that has several Z24s in it. This part in NLA. I have an extra '83 motor (w/the Distributor on it), but I don't really want to take the drive out of it, but that it an option. Now, I'm not sure on how to get the drive out....but it can't be that hard. There was a guy on Nico or Infamousnissan that said that it will work w/out any of the Nissan TBI sensors hooked up....I have my doubts. No, I really have my doubts. I sorta FU'd when I bought it...it is $1,100 thru Jegs and Summit....which I almost did. I got 10% off at Autozone w/Military Discount. BUT, I coulda got 20% off via the Internet. Note to self, remember that A-zone gives 20% off of Internet sales, if over $100. OH, and there is a $125 air filter housing involved too. https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/fuel_injection/sniper_efi/sniper_1-_and_2-barrel_systems/sniper_efi_autolite_1100_1-barrel/parts/550-552

Mike, I don't know why it came out that way....I pasted it. It wasn't dat way when I cut it. That was what I used to do (change em out). But, my curiosity about changing tires has pretty much been resolved. It isn't as much fun as it used to be. I went to Walmart....they did it in about 30 minutes. Fast forward to today....the daughter had a flat. She hit something in the road and it went flat pretty darn quick. That tire went to Discount...they are replacing it w/the Road Hazard, no questions asked. I'm almost not mad at them anymore.

I've got a '86 D21 w/a Z24 and it has Sat for 12 years. I switched the motor (The PO drove it w/a blown head gasket until there was a groove in one of the cylinders where it leaked). I drove it 2-3 months ago and then we worked on the 4x4 hubs. I really haven't driven it much (no plates). Now it won't rev up. If you pump the peddle, it will rev a bit, and you can get it up to about 3,000....and you have to keep pumping the peddle. It won't idle. It did the same thing before, and there was a loose connection....I have not been able to find any loose connections this time. I suspect that rats have ruined the wiring. I have no idea of where to look. I am considering going to a Holley Sniper EFI system $1,100 or a carburetor. Both would require something done w/the distributor. I have a distributor off a Z24. What do I need to do to get it to work? I did a search and somebody claimed that they used their stock distributer by disconnecting the TBI sensors and it worked. What would I need to do to get a carburetor to work?

'm quite upset w/Discounttire at the moment. I have a HarborFreight manual tire changer and I change my tires all the time and one of the reasons is that I'm 20 minutes from town and I don't like waiting an hour to get my stuff done at Discount. They've been my shop for some time....mostly cuz they are the cheapest. Today, I put my knobby snow tires on my wife's car for the winter (a pair, on the front). Then, I went to Discount to get them balanced. The guy says, OK, but we'll have to put them on the back. "It's not safe to put them on the front." It slipped out...."Dumbest thing that I've ever heard." I got that from an old supervisor. I promptly left. I have a tire that I've already paid for waiting for me...It is $330 after everything....tis a 245/75 BFG K03....one tire. I've getting a refund tomorrow. I ordered one from Walmart when I got my tires balanced 30 minutes later. Discount is of the impression that when you put new tires on a FWD that they have to go on the back as cars are prone to excessively over-steer and go into a slide as the rear tires need more traction than the front ones when going around a curve. All I know is that all the braking, starting, hydroplaning is on the front and that most of the time the front needs more tread. What do you think about where the best tires should go on a FWD car?

I have not watched this. It was in my Watch Later Folder for a good long time.

Well, my speedometer continues to get more and more messed up.....that is, unless I actually went to town today at 95mph while turning 2,500 RPM. It has also started resting at, about 15 mph. I'm gonna try putting in my speedo from my 83

I know that this is old... You'd need an old (Early 86 and prior) distributor and a carb adapter....and away you'd go. Holley has the Sniper TBI line and has at least 2 dif TBI systems that would work....about $1,100....but you'd still need the old dizzy.

Where is that museum? It reminds me of the tank museum that used to be at Abeerdeen Proving Ground. 147 9mm is sub-sonic w/a full powered load.