yenpit

Really, any good aftermarket electronic ignition system will work, but MSD has always been one of the most popular. You will need a good solid basic understanding of mechanical (to install) & electrical (to wire up). Sorry, I'm not good at posting links, but there is lots of info online!!

Yes, that is the HEI set up! We tend to avoid all made in China/Taiwan etc parts like this HEI amplifier.........but we MUST have reliability on the race track, or we LOSE! We like the quality of the HEI amplifier sold by MSD (could still be made in China (??), but looks like a better product & we have not had any failures. This one in the pic has what looks like a homemade aluminum "base", which prolly works fine, but GM offers a nice "base" aka as a "heat sink".

Since Matchbox dizzy's are getting harder to find (don't think RockAuto has any more??), we have moved to the earlier mag pick up style with a remote amplifier box. The factory remote amp box is like a big ass ECU, so we do NOT use those! We use the Chevy HEI amp box (small) along with the correct finned aluminum "base", which allows the amp box to remain cool. Easy wiring is available online. You can also use an MSD ignition box. Another great alternative, however very expensive, is the 123distributor.com fully adjustable electronic dizzy assembly.

I honestly believe this all revolves around a plan, an agenda (I already stated that a while back). I think that they have lost some control, thus they are grasping at straws, with random do's & don'ts.............but all to try to keep the agenda "in the lane". More recently, I have seen odd decisions from the "administration"........ones that don't necessarily follow what I figured would be their plan/agenda. Hopefully a sign of chaos within. That is what will crumble their plan/agenda, as things slowly break down AGAINST the plan/agenda. I think the growing separation of O'Biden & Kamaltoe is a good example...........they do NOT seem to be "getting along", like they were before. Two (or more) IDIOTS, trying to "make their place in history", often end up at each others throats. FANFREAKINTASTIC!!!!! Let them. Hope & pray that this is the case. If there is a big break down, will We The People potentially suffer for a period of time, while those that are supposed to keep us united are falling apart? Yup, perhaps. I would rather go thru that, than this continued downward spiral towards socialism etc etc, that I feel we are currently in. If their plan/agenda continues successfully, God help us..............

Here is the funny thing. I JUST had a visit to my doctor & asked if she could GET Ivermectin (Yup, I like horses)? Her answer was no, she could not prescribe it, cuz it is banned. I asked if I acquired Ivermectin, could she help me with dosage? She said no, she could not even suggest dosage.................cuz "they" have threatened that "they" would take away her license. THAT is the problem. Who the F**k cares what you read on these federal webpages.......they are there to give the feds & those that believe them, something to point to.......like you just did. The CDC webpage info is just as bad. My doctor DOES support natural supplements AND early administration of drugs THAT DO WORK.......ie Ivermectin & HQC. But again, her hands are tied by these f**king idiotic mandates. It is a (man made) virus, it WILL run its course, it WILL continue to kill.........just like the flu. People need to open their eyes............the truth will come 😐

They are talking about rack & pinion INNER tie rod ends aka inner ball socket, off of a different car..............not the same as the four required 510 tie rod ends OR the two outer tie rod ends on all other cars! The ball socket bolts directly/rigidly to the tension rod mounting bracket at the front, the tie rod pivots in the ball socket, allowing for suspension travel. It is NOT a soft mount like the OEM, but it also NOT a solid mount like the poly replacement bushings which often cause the OEM tension rod to break. I have read Honda, Volvo & now potentially the MGB rack & pinion INNER tie rods ends will work...........??

We recently dropped in a stock CA18DET into this Goon, currently dealing with worn out injectors, hoping a simple professional cleaning & new orings solves the over fueling issue! This car has also had 280ZX front struts, all new shocks, new bushings as needed etc installed, so rides down the road nicely! Anybody have any spare STOCK fuel injectors to sell?

My buddy's KA24DE powered Goon, recently sold LOCALLY, so hope to continue to see it around! Perhaps we will see Sam around here on Ratsun! We had just raised it a bit to make more driveable, with 280ZX front struts, all new shocks & bushings as needed, so it was driving great! 😎

I picked this Goon up about 4 years ago, here in Denver! I posted pics & as much info as I had at the time, but nothing. As you can see, it was hammered HARD in the rear & pushed into something drivers front, by a drunk. It was a cool build, but ultimately not savable, as the rear floor was badly bent 😣 It was sacrificed for parts, but has saved others! Fast forward to last week, somebody posted a pic of it on one of the Datsun Facebook pages! Yes, I informed him of its demise 😒 It was built in NM, back in the 80's at Van World. It apparently had a turbo L20B, but that was long gone by the time I got the rolling chassis (as seen here on trailer). They had welded up the rear doors & the side window openings, to create a panel van! The other big issue, aside from the crash damage, was that it sat outside, here in Denver, for about 20 years, so most of that welding rotted out, in the wetter Colorado climate. I still have the flamed & louvered bent hood & the crunched drivers side fender, hanging up on my wall in my shop, as some killer cool wall art! RIP panel van!

Wire in a late Bosch or ?? relay. The Paolo wiring diagrams show how to do it. There was also a guy on here selling a simple plug & play late relay with the Datsun plastic plug.........I'll try to remember his user name!

My experience with 510 & Z car is that the RHD latches PULL in the opposite direction........they are built opposite/mirror image. All latches are in the center. Pretty sure the pull HANDLES are simply in the same location, but on the other side. That said, the cable itself should be a similar or same length, so I bet you CAN swap over the complete cable. Other idea is go to a bicycle shop, buy new inner/outer cable (woven core is fine, don't need solid core) with a lead barrel end that will hook into the latch, then modify something at the handle end to create a "loop" etc. Or find a similar eyelet & crimp on inner cable...........??

Never asked...........I assume independent rear suspension like most 510's? I just bought a Mexican built 510, with a solid rear axle like the Wagon, has a Wagon style fuel tank UNDER the car, not in the trunk! If you need to DRAIN the tank (IRS car), there is a drain plug on the bottom towards the right side of the car (your RHD side). There is a rubber plug/grommet on the trunk floor right underneath the plug in the tank. Pull plug from under the car, carefully remove the drain plug (it WILL make a little bit of a fuel splash mess). Think ahead how full the tank is & have plenty of bins to catch it............you do NOT want to try to put the drain plug back in, while it is draining!! Once drained, rotate/tap the tank unit lock ring off & carefully pry the tank unit out............there should not be any residual fuel 😁

Yes easy! The 510 tank unit is on the side that faces the trunk area................be sure to DRAIN or run most of the fuel out first!! 😆 Buy a new tank unit ORING seal, still available from Nissan.

Here in the States, we have Dorman aftermarket products. The SINGLE filament socket is part #84808, the DOUBLE filament socket is part #84809. Only issue I have is I do not know if the JDM sockets are the same as the USA spec. I can look if the JDM "Deluxe" tail lamps use the same sockets this weekend, as I am buying a Mexican built 510 that has the Deluxe tail lamps. If the JDM Deluxe ARE the same, I bet the others are too......?? PM me to remind, if you still need info! TJ

You don't have a wiring diagram? Diagrams are online for the 510's & Z cars.........I've never looked for the 620's.............

The very late 620 was factory optional AC, as were all of the 720's. There MAY have been aftermarket companies making a kit if the truck did NOT come with factory optional AC, but I have never seen. If there was, I'm sure they are long gone, just like all of the earlier dealer installed kits. All of the earlier Datsun's, were dealer installed aftermarket kits, made here in the States. I'm aware of 3 different manufacture's of those earlier kits. We have people asking if they can install factory air in their 280Z's that did NOT come with the factory optional AC..........we tell them it is not worth the effort, cuz you would have to strip every nut & bolt OUT of a parts car & install in the car they had. In those cases, I think it is easier to install a universal AC kit from Vintage Air etc. It is still not an easy task, as it is all universal fit..........requires fab work & alot of ingenuity.........there are no kits for the 720's that I have ever seen!

Not sure about the 620's, but the 510's were "blacked out" behind the grille on the LIGHTER COLOR CARS. I have seen darker color cars with no black out. I say "black out", not painted, cuz it was literally brushed on.........not spray painted. No car would be exactly the same, cuz hand brushed on. I always tell people to paint BLACK behind the grille on ANY car. I sold Sport Compact parts back in the 2000's, sold lots of body kits. I would tell the kids to paint black, especially with those huge grille openings on some of the body kits, so you would not see the radiator, AC condensor, AC tubes etc etc. Those that listened, the cars looked good. Those that didn't, many looked like crap. Some would say "Shoulda listened to you!". Black gives the illusion of depth, hides other stuff!

The 510 bumpers were made by Musclecar GT in Asia. They are the issue, as they only run in batches. FutoFab & Zcar Depot rely on the manufacturer for inventory & they simply are not producing them on a regular basis. FutoFab rails them all the time to make more product, but they simply don't care 😣

Yup, I got backwards............and Mike just laughed (emoji) at me.............🙄

Agree on top fuel feed, bottom fuel return, but I think that "flow line valve" was later 71-73........?? On the later cars, the "vent line" went from that flow line valve on the drivers side strut tower, down behind that strut tower, under the car, back to the vapor tank above the fuel tank. It was more of a circular flow vs the earlier double back flow 🧐

One more screw each side, UP above the speedo & tachometer! I can just barely see the round hole above the speedo in the pic! Huh, your radio is still mounted, after you pulled the radio/center panel off?? Must be another different market thing??!! Once that panel is loose, pull away slightly, then you can POP the turnsignal bulb sockets out OR leave in place & unplug the short harness. Either way, don't forget to plug back in on assembly (no, I've never forgotten THAT!!) 😂 The speedo/tach cluster is held in by four screws, pull away slightly, reach behind & unscrew the speedo cable, then pull away slightly more & unplug the electrical wires.harness. BEFORE doing all of this, to test the fuel gauge, unplug the tank sending unit, GROUND that wire, see if fuel gauge goes FULL. If goes FULL, the gauge itself is good. If not, you could have a wiring issue OR the fuel gauge is bad. If fuel & temp gauges stopped working, there is a small rectangular "voltage stabilizer" on the back of the gauge cluster (at least USA spec does), which could be corroded or simply bad. ANYTHING turnsignal, hazard flasher, brake light etc.........you should start with bulbs, bulb sockets, bad grounds etc, BEFORE pulling apart the dash! I pull the fusebox on every car sitting for years (or running!) & soak in plain white vinegar for a day or two, clean, re-grease the terminals/plugs & re-install. The brass terminals get oxidized/corroded easily! Good luck!

I think Newsom is an idiot, but I never truly wish harm on anybody. If this is the case, it will get buried by the left media, leaving only the conservatives to see it for what it is...........a dangerous drug, being pushed on We The People. Again, everybody should have the choice to get or NOT get the "vaccine"............I do not argue that point. I also do not accept anybody telling me what THEY think about my decision...............nobody. It is solely my choice, as it is solely your choice. My friend tested positive for CV19 last Thursday, so I went in Friday AM, tested negative. She had MILD symptoms, only a mild fever, but the fever broke by Sunday & she is feeling much better. The problem was, that her regular doctor RAILED into her about not being vax'd............so she is now looking for a NORMAL DOCTOR that accepts a patients decisions. I'm glad she made that decision, cuz I would have strongly suggested that she find another doctor!! LET'S GO BRANDON!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (this is where I would normally stick a bunch of American Flags, but I don't see it in the emoji list..........how odd??)

If you are asking me.......................F**K NO!! That little lying rat bastard needs to resign or get fired & be prosecuted. Will it happen happen? Likely no, because he is "protected" by the left, like so many other of these idiots in high positions these days 😡 We are screwed for a while, so hold on tight!!