sick620

I am not 100% what my plans are in the short term. I have a l20b on a stand that is supposed to be a runner, and everything to put it in the car.. this project is going to be so overwhelming with all the body work then bolting it all together plus sourcing missing parts.. I’m thinking I’m going to focus on the body and getting the car together then run the l20b in it while I slowly stack the parts for the swap… Rome wasn’t built in a day I guess… id maybe stay l20b if it was possible to get 140hp+ at the wheels with the head I have (non peanut) and just bore it out and doing a cam and headwork …but I don’t think that’s a reasonable expectation.

what motor was in bros car?

thoughts on stitch welding seams behind fenders and in engine bay for added rigidity? Not worth it because of added chance of rusting at seams?

Wow this brings a tear to my eye. The old days of ratsun when you could meet datsun guys in your town and hang out via ratsun. In 2022 and chicago of all places. Damn there is still a Datsun god. I was starting to lose faith lol

sweet thanks good idea I didn't think of looking up race cars.

Oh ok I see what you are saying, 1200 wiki shows those spring specs being for a holden? and they are listed under the "possible" section.. I wonder if they will work.. Maybe worth the try at half the cost of Nismo and says they can see 10k rpm damn... So I get the biggest cam from delta, arp rod bolts, these springs... rebuild the block with the new .030 over pistons, new bearings... Basic head port and polish. New valve guides... Re use valves (heads in great shape 120k miles)... nismo gasket to bump compression a bit.. should I get a valve job or just lap them? seats look to be nice... will I need to buy any new valve train parts IE rockers, push rods etc.? I don't know much about these push rod motors anything I need to replace as far as wear items since I'm running a shiny new cam? any other recommendations? I don't want to rev this thing up to 8500 and blow it up. any value in gapping rings a bit bigger since I'm sure Ill be introducing a bit more heat revving it up higher than a stock motor don't want them to expand and crack a piston. While on the subject and chances are I won't do this but the idea has been rolling around in my head a while, but can one of these motors handle a 35ish shot of a wet nitrous system? I feel like that would be a pretty fun set up being able to cruise it around at low rpm getting reasonably good mpg, then bring it up to 130ish HP on spray for short bursts when I want to rev the crap out of it.. I'd do it as safe as possible with step colder plugs, timing retard, only spray at WOT. Not a lot of information on spraying the datsun motors, but I've always thought it would be a fun adventure.

the springs you link show they are for an alfa romeo?

good job excited to follow this one.

anyone have photos of a b210 on american racing libre style wheels?

Tom, can I run the Nismo brand dual springs with factory collets and retainers etc.? I see Nismo had part numbers for them but I cant find any for sale only the springs themselves. I also cant find A series spring anywhere on the isky site, but the Nismo ones are available on eBay. Nismo recommends you use the Nismo collets and retainers with the Nismo springs, but since they are not available anywhere I'm wondering if I can just reuse my factory stuff. Thank you for all your info.

delta brand no I cant find any information on specs I guess I will have to ask them. I'd be thrilled if you found some more pics, would probably motivate me to paint it the same color again. I think I'll go with the more aggressive cam. Other than bombing the car down the freeway to powerland or something once a year and a few local car meets or whatever its just a fun car so why not.

Thank you for all your info! Did you ever find anymore pictures of the blue 510? I would love to see them ask your brother… will you ask him if he had a UFO united 5ten owners decal on the back window little small round one. Do you know anything about 272 grind vs 280 grind? What should I run?

I’m sorry I misspoke I meant valve guides not valve seats.. they sell a14 racing valve guides.. I assume made of a harder material for wear for high rev motors.. or will the factory ones be ok only periodically reving the car high.. it’s going to be a street car so I don’t plan on revving it crazy all that often. I figure if I’m building an A series I might as well build it for moderately high rpm’s because it’s not going to be all that fast but I want it to be fun and sound cool. Ok Sounds like I need headers, I already have a 32/36 Weber and adapter. Need to source a matchbox dizzy also.

Ok so far I’ve ordered; nismo head gasket .8mm, and some .030 over pistons. I am going to send my cam in to delta and either do a 272 or 280 grind, any Recommendations? I am going to buy the nismo dual valve springs, will I need to buy dual valve spring retainers or will my original factory ones be ok? I will probably lighten flywheel a few pounds nothing crazy.. arp rod bolts are recommended on the 1200 wiki page for high rev motors should I get those? will my setup be safe to rev up over 8k rpm from time to time? Or do I need to do aftermarket valve seats and aftermarket pushrods as well? ARP head studs worth it to protect from possible future head gasket leaks (these motors are known for leaky head gaskets I hear)

Ok I’ve decided to just bore over the block at the machine shop. I’m struggling to find pistons. I would like .060 over pistons but id do .020 or .030 or whatever else I can find but I’m struggling to find anything.. can anyone verify that these are for sure for an A14 https://www.ebay.com/itm/185031042395?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=nLfobrrwTwy&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=8n57qc9BRnW&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

ok mike you are right there is a hole but it’s just an air injection passage according to this, so I will just need to make an adapter to cover the hole as seen in the photo. So yes kelmo I’d love one if you can find one, whenever you find the time.

Update: Removed head. Block is in amazing shape one of the cleanest Datsun motors I’ve ever been inside of. Cylinders are great smooth no ridge. Head gasket looks to be in great shape still. So this should just be an easy hone and re ring job.. I’ll definitely go with the 8mm nismo head gasket to maybe bump compression slightly.. I may get a bigger cam and dual valve springs and port and polish the head a bit too, haven’t decided yet… I already have an adapter and a 32/36 Weber that I need to rebuild and install. I’m on the hunt for an oval intake though because I really don’t want to have to jb weld this one it’s pretty cracked. EDIT. Ended up deciding to bore it out with some bigger pistons while its apart. I really want to figure out if an a12 housing can be made to work I don’t like this ugly smog one especially after deleting much of the smog stuff.

That would be awesome will the a12 housing bolt up? It is an a14 oval port with square exhaust

Since I already have a ball hone here I will probably just use that. This is all dependent on if the cylinder doesn’t have any ridges etc… anything concerning I’ll take it to the machine shop. But if it’s all in good shape just bad rings I’ll be using the hone I already have and yes re ring… any pointers on using the ball hone and not screwing anything up? I realize the rationale of using the hone you recommend it keeps everything uniform and in a straight line takes out high spots.. I’m just doing this cheap if I can…

I ended up just pulling it. As long as the cylinders and pistons are in good shape I’ll just do a cheap hone and freshening up leave it original and re install. If it needs machine work I’ll probably do a gx head gasket and double valve springs and an aftermarket cam since I already have it apart. Does anyone know if a a12 thermo housing will bolt on? One without the smog stuff?…. Does anyone have an extra intake that’s crack free?

Tank is back in the car and the car is running off it’s own gas supply finally.. I ran it for the first time for a few minutes straight and it smokes even worse than I thought billowing blue smoke more smoke the more you rev it.. I’m assuming rings. Is there a valve stem seal on these push rod motors? Are they easier to replace than an L series and worth a try before tearing into this motor or doing a motor swap? I have plenty of experience on lseries no experience on the A series.

Pressure washed, soaked in clr, and shook around some washers in the tank and got most of the rust out. It’s now drying in the sun ☀️. Install tomorrow hopefully. Trunk had more rust in it than I thought after cleaning it out. I just layed down a coat of zero rust for now hoping that slows down the decay until I can get to it later.

Pulled back seat, and gas tank. Blew out fuel line with compressed air and used a drill with a piece of welding wire to snake the inside of the line. Took a while but a combo of air, welding wire, and pb blaster and brake cleaner.. and now it’s clear.. going to clean the tank now and clean the car an re install everything.

I got the major areas of the rusty floor patched just tacked in with my non existent welding skills. And coated in zero rust… I will later fill in some of the small spots around the edges that I missed and Seam seal, as well as zero rust the under side .. just Trying to get this car in driving condition for now before re-evaluating what my plans are for it … put my 2023 Crosstrek floor mats in it for now since I got some weather tech style floor mats for it… just going to get some cheap seat covers and cover the seats for the time being and make it atleast sorta presentable.

When are you going to post a video of straightening your front bumper? I need to do the same to ours. It’s bent the same was as yours more or less lol.