sick620

Ok so I have some updates: I replaced the blown brake line and replaced every brake part on the truck basically. The brakes are now working. The truck has still had a lot of small nuisance things requiring attention. The clutch still has been engaging and disengaging weird, a full press of the pedal and the truck would not shift. This is after a lot of adjusting and reading on ratsun. I realized the truck had a pretty bad exhaust leak where the manifold meets the head, replaced gasket and problem not resolved could not find any cracks or anything. E brake was randomly locking up one of the rear wheels. I finally decided I just needed to get the damn truck up in the air where I could see what I was doing, I have a friend with a lift so we brought it over there. Within 1 minute of it being in the air it was apparent that the little dust plate that is between engine and tranny was hitting the slave cylinder putting it at a weird angle, and also hitting the collector pushing the exhaust manifold away from the motor. 2 seconds with Sawzall and both the clutch issue and exhaust leak issues were resolved. Then we adjusted the ebrake to realize that the brake cable loop at back wheels was binding up on one side where it entered the drum, too rusty and cable sleeve damaged. So we removed it for now until I can get a new section of brake cable installed. While on the lift we also got the brakes all adjusted correctly. When I buy a house this year first thing I am doing is installing a damn lift. I plan to get this thing reliable this week while it is over there, we are finally really making progress.

this thread needs more 510 pics 😉

I wasted some of the scammers time I emailed him and he responded asking what I’m looking for I told him I’m looking for a turbo off a Japanese 510 taxi. It’s a rare part so I have $15000 to spend.. he told me he has one and I have to send it friends and family haha 😂… tried to get him to send me $100 to prove he’s real then I’d send the money.. he finally caught on. Then I told him I’d cut his fingers off and stick them in his butt… anyways if anyone tries to scam you waste their time it’s a blast 💥

maybe we could have a better vetting process. I have joined other forums where there is a question like "how many cc's is a A14 engine" when you register a new account Forcing the person to google it or whatever and find the info. Something like that added could at least keep the lazy scammers out.

User laura051 is currently running a wtb scam exactly like the one that I outlined in this thread. They just sent me a message requesting I email someone for the parts. Just fyi laura051 is a scammer .

someone post pics!

yeah maybe the wrong switch. It is the one that came in truck and I thought I recalled the lights working at some point but maybe not. Or maybe somehow when I fried everything it got messed up inside IDK.. Im going to just pull the known good working one off the b210 and try it in place. Now that I have ran my own wiring I am just going to run it all off my wiring. I am not going to ohm out anything.

Ok so we got the wiring problems resolved. All of the grounds in the wiring harness were a bit fried. Spliced in some new grounds and cleaned up all of the wiring and now it is operational… next I’m moving to the brakes since we burst the brake line when the battery hit it, and I’ve been needing to replace the front brake parts anyways.. we also realize we have an exhaust manifold leak at the head. The middle two cylinders so now I need to pull the exhaust 🤦‍♂️

Ok so I ran a hot wire to the pedal, then a wire out to the brake lights. There must be something wrong with the switch because not pressing pedal we have brake lights and when you press it in the turn off lol…. also everything else electrical has been tested and is working. Hazard lights included. Truck starts and runs finally. i guess ill try replacing pedal switch .

Horn does work. When I put power to the other wire by the pedal nothing happens at the brake lights. According to the wiring diagram the wire that is supposed to feed power to the pedal switch is on the same circuit/fuse as the horn. So I am possibly giving the horn relay power. but that's weird because the horn already works and has power. The 521 fuse box was cleaned of corrosion and brand new screws and fuses installed. And my multimeter shows power on both sides of all the constant powered fuses, and power of all the ignition ran fuses when igntion is on, I checked to make sure wires are in correct spots and wiggled them all around to make sure they are making good contact at the fuse box, I never tried hazards, but otherwise have power to everything else I am pretty sure. Ill check hazards tomorrow.

Here is the relay I am hearing. It is the light relay I am pretty sure looking at wiring diagram. Weird that when I hook up one of the wires at pedal and my own 12v power to the pedal it makes noise. Everything else in the truck is working Light related. I am leaning on just wiring my 12v power permanently and running my own wire from Pedal back to the brake lights… this has me a little worried that something still isn’t right. But with everything functional I don’t want to mess with it too much more… maybe i should look under the truck and see if anything is fried underneath because that’s the only place I have not checked yet.

Stupid question probably, but does anyone know the name of the connector that connects to the oil pressure sender in a L series motor? Its a female connector that pops on the male nipple that is on the sensor. the wire connector that pops on this nipple in photo. My wire is missing this clip, I just have a bare wire with no way to attach to this style sender and I dont know what it is called to order a new one

I dont beleive so. The relay that is making the noise is VERY factory looking. It looks just like the voltage regulator and the other couple small ralays. Ill upload a pic tomorrow..

OK, so I tested the power to the brake switch at the pedal and there was no power to either side of it at all. All of my fuses have power on either side of them testing them with my meter. I tried jiggling all the wires, making sure they were tight and making a good connection at the fuse box. So the issue Had to be between the fuse box and the switch-I decided to try to test it by running my own hot wire from the battery straight to the switch. I wasn’t sure what wire at the switch is the one that runs to the brake lights but when I hook up my hot wire to one side and one of the wires to the other side, it clicks a relay then also when I press the brake pedal it clicks that relay off and on. I’m assuming that is the correct wire. It’s kind of weird though because it seems like the relay gets power when the two wires are connected without even pressing the break pedal and then when I press the brake pedal, it’s like it disrupts the current to the relay but maybe this is how it is intended to operate? When I hook up my tail lights, I still don’t get brake lights, even when it is wired up in this fashion, and I can hear the relay clicking when I press the pedal. maybe there is supposed to be something grounded at the back of the truck where the tail lights are that isn’t anymore? now I’m considering running a wire from that relay whichever one makes 12v when the pedal is pressed back to the brake lights, and connecting my temporary power to brake switch wire permanently to the fuse box as my own permanent bypass..

Ok I fixed the issues. The wire that fried that grounds the alternator fried all of the grounds in the harness and some were not connected anymore. I re wired the grounds now I have power and truck seems like it’s going to be fine. I am trying to wire up some aftermarket tail lights now, I have everything working but brake lights… is the power at the brake pedal supposed to be constant or only when ignition switch is on? I’m not showing any power at the brake pedal for some reason.

Hahahaha

god might have to tow the 521 to see if someone can help me sort the wiring issues 😕

Ask him what he thinks about datsuns.

Oh god I doubt it’s that bad worst case I just need to take the wrap off all the wires and pull out the dash and inspect everything until I figure it out. I was just hoping someone knew of some common failure points… the ground wire that runs off the alternator I am pretty sure gos to the voltage regulator, that is not a necessary configuration correct? Like as long as the engine, frame, negative of battery, and voltage regulator are grounded to each other it does not necessarily matter where the alternator is grounded to right? I can just ground it right to the frame?

I was driving the 521 and battery fell into engine bay because I forgot to secure it. Positive arched out on brake line. Other that the fried brake line the extent of the known damage is: fried ground wire running from alternator, and fried throttle cable that acted as a ground. I installed some new ground straps in a few places, replaced all fuses with new, and cleaned up the fuse box… Now we are getting no accessory power and intermittent power to the starter… any ideas on anything else that could have been fried?… 1st matter of business is replacing the ghetto push button start I had wired in with a toggle switch, can someone tell me the proper order of wires on this aftermarket toggle switch?

Straitened out the bent up core support. Not perfect but night and day better than it was. Going to clean and paint behind the grill and headlights black.

Ok so we are still having wiring issues after the battery grounded itself out. The only wire I can find that got fried was the small ground coming from alternator. I have added grounds, cleaned up fuse box, and checked all connections that I have made and I am still for some reason not getting ignition power. We have headlights horn etc. all of the constant power stuff is working, the truck turns over with the starter. But wipers, blower fan etc are not working… we removed fender, popped out dent and zero rusted behind the fender. And straightened the bumper out.

I used to have a canik it was a good gun.

Well I’m assuming it is just a regular ol ground so I grounded it to the frame, plus added a ground from the valve cover to body hopefully this is enough grounding to help prevent such a catastrophic event in the future if battery ever arch’s out again. I also added an aftermarket fuse box for stereo wiring and any extra wiring in the future. I also welded up this extra unused heater hose outlet. It used to have a hose that was plugged with a clutch adjustment tool and hose clamp lol 😂also welded up a unused nipple on the intake.