sick620

took it to cruise night in our little town, they do it annually. Not very many imports but in a sea of old domestic stuff people were very excited to see it. I need to get working on replacing bushings and front brakes it’s pretty harsh to drive right now. Also plan on lifting front end a half inch or an inch.

Bump* is it better to do the adjustment when there is no hydraulic pressure in the line and it’s disconnected. Or better to have the hose connected and the system bled?

I know I know.. but sr20s are too expensive and getting old… ca18 non turbo is about same cost as kseries also getting old and less power than the Honda motor… turbo anything is too much work and not really what I want for this car.. ka24e or de are getting harder to find and by the time I rebuild since they are all used will be same cost as Honda motor and less power… I want efi NA and around 200hp and unfortunately Honda is probably the cheapest way to obtain that… $1000 low mileage jdm motors are plentiful.. $200 rx8 6 speeds are everywhere… this kinda future proofs part availability for this car if anything ever breaks.. I used to want a Nissan only power plant in every Datsun now I just want the most driver friendly and easily accessible swap and I truly believe this is the best setup for me.. any other motor swap this would be another one of those threads where I say “I’m putting an SR in it” then I never get to it, and the car sits another 10 years .. I have connections to make the k swap actually happen so that’s the plan unfortunately..

Ok it does look like it may be leaking from valve cover.. it seems like it barely leaking so I don’t know how it’s looking so bad on the side of the block but this is the only place that looks moist after spraying everything down with brake clean.. thank god. Was afraid I put something back together wrong or head was warped or something..

Can someone tell me what all this stuff is? I know the heater box, the shifter plate and gasket, and all the rubber plugs but not sure what the other stuff is lol.. I think I have everything to make the doors open and windows work as well as wipers.. Two wiper motors tho which one is for a 510?

Went through the wiring today... There's two parts of a harness that look like they are from a 620 or 720 or something.. And I believe the 510 harness is fairly compete with fusebox ignition Etc... I can't find the part of the harness that plugs into the cluster though so I don't know if I'm missing some of it or what... Also there is no 510 heater core and fan assembly, the heater setup that was in the car I realize is out of a 620 or something as well.... So I think I'm going to run one of those cheap hot rod aftermarket heater cores... I've decided to do a Honda k24 swap in the car, I have a friend locally that has one in his 510 wagon and I will be paying him to atleast do the wiring part of the swap and possibly the custom mounts... Going to run an rx8 tranny with an adapter plate... Since I'm going to be wiring in a efi harness etc hopefully there's enough of the original harness here... I'm missing all of the front dash parts so I'm trying to decide if I should locate all the parts and put it together or just run a sheet metal dash, Since I'm going to run a swap I'll need aftermarket gauges anyways...

What should I do to try to repair? Retorque the head?

Sorry about sideways photos I'll edit later from a pc... Cut off anything I could to make it as light as possible, still need to take the drum brakes off of it. Going to mount a cargo carrier to the top of the bed rails and bolt down a cooler to the front,,

Regarding leak. It is definitely not coming from valve cover gasket. And definitely coming from either head gasket or timing cover where it meets the head gasket

Updates: Truck runs good with rubber line ran AL the way to tank. Still needs brakes replaced in front you have to double pump to stop, and clutch is only working if you press pedal half way down, so slave is still not in adjustment... Also clutch hydros must have a leak because it takes a while to get the clutch pumped up and working if it's Sat for a while...I'm wondering if some of these issues have to do with rusty hard lines (like our fuel line issue we were having) We are way too excited probably but we got a matching bed trailer to tow behind it ☺️

OK so I'm trying to understand this... Does a 510 crossmember bolt into a b210? If you bolt in a 510 crossmember and you have a 510 oil pan and pickup the L20b bolts in, but it sits far forward in the engine bay? If you have these parts and bolt the motor in will a short tail tranny and 510 driveline all bolt up?

Started welding holes in the engine bay

Awesome thanks

Not a D I don’t know what the heck it is. Doubt it’s Datsun but came with a Datsun I just bought.

Anyone know what this is off of?

Ok good to know

Starting to fill holes.. going to get all the metal work done over the next few weeks so I can strip the car down for filler and primer.

Thank you for this info .. I’ll be in touch about dash parts!

pressure washed the car .. crazy how much better it looks..

I do not have much experience putting them together. I’m fortunate that this one has most of its parts so I’m going to try doing it without a second car… I’m sure it’ll be difficult.. been working on all the other models of Datsuns for 10+ years so I’m sure I can do it just might take me longer than some..

We have this oil leak on the drivers side I’m assuming it’s coming from the timing cover, the corner where it meets the head and the block any ideas on sealing it without disassembly? also I got the fuel issue resolved for now by bypassing factory line and running a rubber line all the way to tank…

can someone ID this trans I think it’s from a later model hl510 but not sure

Hey we did find some orange on the car … was it stripped all the way down then painted ? The only orange is up around inside of trunk where would the welds be I don’t see them ? I think this might be the car!