sick620

Im trying new thermostat first, but why get a thermostat for 521 and not l20b?

woah thats a sweet car, lucky bastard

I am unsure if temp gauge ever worked because I never ran the truck long enough to know… I did try wire brushing the nipple so probably a bad sender huh?

New rebuild l20b.. trying to run an original 521 radiator for now… started truck let it warm up while topping off rad with water as it warmed up… water just sat calm in radiator cap off whole time .. I waited for water to start moving showing that the new thermostat opened up… seemed to take a long time nothing changing with the water in radiator … checked temp gauge not going up at all… grounded wire and gauge maxed out high temp so the gauge is functional maybe bad sender? Maybe no water passed thermostat so sender isn’t registering temperature?…… let it sit a couple minutes longer in case it just wasn’t warm enough yet still nothing on temp gauge still nothing for movement in radiator… then all of a sudden water starts flowing over out the radiator (where cap usually goes) fast and aggressive…fan misting it all over the place..had to shut it down…. before trying this old used radiator I tried a new Chinese one it was bad from the factory leaking all over the place, but it also did this wierd thing where it’s fine then all of a sudden without a build up etc it starts coming out crazy from the filler hole… since it’s all at once and so immediate id assume this is the thermostat opening up? I’ve never had a Datsun do this … maybe both radiators were plugged up restricting flow as the thermostat opened? Maybe head gasket or something is not sealed good? (No water In oil, oil in water, or smoke etc) it runs great idles nice etc… maybe thermostat is not opening?but I don’t know what else would explain the water calm one second then coming out of hole the next violently…. i tried filling back up and putting cap on… ran for a minute or two, no leaks or anything but still temp gauge not coming up .. squeezing upper radiator hose it is hot with pressure kinda difficult to squeeze… the thing making this extra hard is no way to judge temp should probably fix that first huh ?

if you were in northern cali I would come, chino is like driving to powerland and back for me just to go one way... I'd come one year maybe if it was a regular thing..

If you put a new or rebuilt motor in a 521 or 510 and you needed a radiator what route would you go? Less radiator shops means its probably pretty expensive to have one re-cored right? koyorad has high praise but 1 year warranty sounds scary for something 300+ bucks. champion has so/so reviews, but lifetime warranty so could just get a new one whenever needed sounds great...

Dang wish I could have got a good one think we are just going to bite the bullet and get a koyorad

Running great! new Chinese radiator puked all of its fluid out the fan side though! factory dud 😞… might be a bit before we get it going now couple more weeks atleast

almost 2 days straight of working on it but she’s in. New starter, 50 amp alternator, matchbox dizzy, and radiator. waiting on cap, rotor, plugs, and wires… needed a bigger belt so I’ll have to get that tomorrow… valve cover gasket is cheap and does not fit good so we need a different one… still need to add oil, antifreeze,fuel lines then it’s pretty much ready to fire up!

I ended up just getting it in the old way with transmission already in truck and just mating engine to it … took me an hour or two but finally popped on most of the way and used a couple bolts to suck it together the rest of way…

Ok cool yeah. I figured I’d At least need to get it a little bit off the ground to let the legs of cherry picker to slide under..

I have put in and pulled enough Datsun motors that I know it’s a real pain in the ass to get the engine and tranny to mate in the truck/car … every time I’ve ever done it I have to call a friend and it still takes us a while to get the two connected… I’ve never tried installing a motor and tranny that are connected together, but since I’m working on it alone this time I think that may be easier? any considerations for doing the install this way? I have one of those load leveler things on my cherry picker…

i've thought about doing hour long day walks at a brisk pace because long low intensity cardio like that is supposed to be the best if you are trying to maintain muscle mass (body builders etc) (I do powerlifting/strongman stuff) but I never feel like I have the time to walk for an entire hour. So it's crazy to me that you go for these super long walks... but I think it's badass...

Ok so I’ll plug the one on block eventually… for now I’m just going to loop a hose between the two to block them off and eliminate the heater core … just for a little while because it’s warming up and I won’t need the heater and I haven’t tested the heater core might as well clean it up first and test it … that takes one more thing a way that could potentially go wrong while I’m working out the bugs in the truck and new motor…

woah love all the race pics so cool

I was wondering if one could go inlet and one could go outlet, but I guess then water would not flow through the core ..

ok so I cant run it off both of the rear ones, either way it has to route back to water neck, ok got it.

thats freaking nuts. Awesome that you found the bed. I love when the universe lines stuff up like that!

my z20 with l20b head now has two rear spots to connect a heater hose. I am assuming because z series vs l series just utilize a different spot for that fitting. Would it be possible to run my heater core off those two spots and not run a hose up to the water neck (how they are normally routed)? or no because they will both be flowing the same direction?

I ended up just using the normal 85mm l20b gasket.. It was close but a few people have said its good up to .040 over so I'll just have faith that is the case. engine is almost together. Head in place and I got it timed today and front cover on.. regarding cam timing, I timed it in the 1 position on the sprocket, that put the little v in the sprocket pretty much exactly dead center on the mark that is behind the sprocket. I read online now that l20b is supposed to be on 2 position, but 1 position was exactly lined up. I really don't want to take it all apart do you think the 1 setting will be fine? Yes bright links were in correct spots, block was at TDC and cam dowel was at 12oclock, im sure its timed good I'm just worried its going to be 4 degrees too advanced in the 1 position.

looks like a good start 620's are the best datsuns!

Head torqued, timing set on, front cover on. Just have the oil pan/pickup, flywheel/clutch, rear freeze plug, and all the bolt ons... Just about ready to go back in the truck. cant forget to adjust valves and put oil in it... Ive never timed an engine from scratch but it was soo easy... bottom at top dead center, head with cam dowel at 12oclock... cam gear at 1. bright link lined up with the one on outer edge of gear. other link lined up with mark on crank gear. very easy I am 99% it is correct.. I only lapped the valves for a minute a piece or so and didn't really focus on making them perfect, used a drill. Didn't want to wear the seats too much.. Never did a leak test with water or anything but most of the pitting was gone and they looked pretty uniform with a nice little flat surface corresponding with the seat... I was worried when I looked at my extra l20b and saw it had a oiler behind timing cover, and this block didn't have it.. thought maybe I needed to install one, but realized zseries engines don't have them or a place for them... Was afraid I was going to have to take it back apart, thank god for ratsun and all the info on here. between ratsun, hainz videos on youtube, and how to rebuild your nissan datsun book this has been fairly easy.. hardest part was cleaning gross parts.

anyone know what a b210 2 door sedan weighs vs coupe(Hatch)

where are the pics of you getta hella sideways in this thing? are you rebuilding a trans?