captaingamez

Theres a few things I forgot to update to this thread. I cleaned and repainted the diff and sealed it with a new gasket, hardware, and seals. I showed that I built a billet mount for the differential. It uses a common poly bushing. I do not know for sure yet that this works. We will find out when the rear end is bolted up. Then if it does work I can make one for other 910 users. I also had to get a rebuilt rear left axle for the drivetrain swap. I also got the transmission rebuild done. Its got all new high quality bearings and synchros. Only thing left for the drivetrain is to make a one piece driveshaft and bolt everything in. It will be about an inch lower after this is all completed. I think I am gonna get a chrome Hurst short shifter with a white Hurst ball. It takes a standard Mustang T5 shifter.

Beautiful cars man. Did they sell the 2 doors in Finland or did you import it?

For a diff you should check out the OBX LSD. Alot of Z guys run that setup and have no problems. Its helical just like the Quaife. Theres alot of information on it online. Only catch is that you have to upgrade to an R200. Meaning a few pounds more weight. I am in the process of upgrading to R200 right now.

Hi Ray. I havent updated in a while because I havent done very much. I am having the transmission rebuilt soon, and then there will be much to report on because hwen it goes in, the suspension goes on and the diff and a custom driveshaft and the bushings ect, ect. So stay tuned. But I just daily the car and it gives me very few problems. I believe she needs a valve adjustment, but I havent had time recently.

I am not sure that an X will mean Nissha production. I believe most if not all of these cars were built at Oppama.

Not real sure what it all means, but I would love to track down how many of these they made. Type: HG910 VIN: JN1HU01SXET240379 Model: HLG910AEVCS

I got a fix it ticket in Texas so yes you do. Or that cop made up laws on the fly.

Yeah I dont have anything awesome like throwing a multi ton casting through a wall like Q-tip does though. Luckily the worst I have ever done is forget to remove a hold down bolt and ruin a carbide tool.

We had a guy crash a lathe so hard it broke the spindle casting and destroyed half the machine. Wrong setup, wrong offset, machine on %50 rapid mode.

Have any of you guys ever scrapped a lathe bed? Just curious.

The dash on these cars is not too bad to remove. to get to the instruments you only need to remove the driver side pad, its like 6 screws. 4 on top under the pad, infront of the cluster, and two on the bottom of the sides above the ledge where the hazard and mirror switches sit. take those off and you can pull the pad carefully. then the cluster is easy. The speedo cable is virtually held on by nothing but this little clip so it should com off really easy.

i think that color would give me a headache lol00

I have decided to tear mine down and give it a fresh coat of paint and clean the crap out of it. Ill post updates in here. I am so excited to get it cutting parts. I have some serious work I plan on making to sell.

That is a great deal. Looks to be pre 1940, not necessarily converted, they actually came that way alot of times with the motor. Lathes after the 1920s were sold with the option of the horizontal drive or vertical drive unit, or none so you could use your then antiquated overhead ceiling drive from a steam engine, hit and miss engine, or diesel electric. Thats an awesome price for a 13" south bend, you can do some good sized work on that thing.

Makes me realize how badly I want a paint job. Shes looking sexy. How much did the whole thing cost you?

I am very grateful to have gotten it for such a great price. The power cross slide is not working but the z feed and QC gearbox work great though. Once I get her cleaned up It should do nice work. Anybody have a recommendation for a good tool holder?

This is a picture of it right before I picked it up. The bitch is about 300lb with no tailstock, no chuck and no legs. I got a small 3 jaw, 7 inch independent 4 jaw, the motor/pulley assembly, tailstock and the legs. The legs alone are worth $300. I have had a small chinese machine before but nothing somewhat professional. This is my first nice lathe with a real quick change and options.

I might be picking up a 1928 9x36" South Bend today with quick change gear box, the motor and legs and two chucks. I take it that $650 is a good price?

Nissan also did not "cobble this thing together" it was only available for 1 year prior to Nissan using it, The T5 came out in 1981 and was used by Nissan in 1982. Yes, it is the "world famous" transmission used by Ford, it was the Camaro and Firebird trannies that were weak, the Nissan box is more similar to the Ford version than it is the Chevy version. All the parts are interchangeable between all these trannies. So how is it not the same tranny? Also, theres more gear ratios available for the T5 than there are for almost any Nissan transmission.

There is almost nothing to like about the T5? Really? I would think YOU of all people Mike would find SOMETHING to like about it. How about the fact that its endlessly modifiable beyond that of an FS5? Or the fact that it has a 265 ft lb torque rating (thats normally for instantaneous loading) Or the fact that theres a crap load of parts availability, a crap load of trannies that can be bought for scrap prices and a ton of parts interchange in between different models used by over 10 manufacturers? Or the ease of rebuilding a T5 Or the fact that the torque rating of a NISMO prepped FS5W71C is about 289 FT-LB, compared to the stock out of the factory T5 at 265 FT LB Too close to honestly justify the cost of the Nismo. And for the record, a stock factory FS5W71C is rated at 215 FT LB or 30KGFM. Or the valuable bell housing that can be used to even put a World Class T5 in which holds 300 FT lb from the factory. The fact that TREMEC still makes the tranny and its the longest produced 5 speed transmission on the market. Reason I add this here is that I took my T5 apart and took the cases in for hot tank to a professional race shop. He plead with me to sell him the T5 and went over all the above info with me (most of which I knew but kept to myself because of the general tone of this thread). He went on and on about how much better the T5 is actually. So not that the FS5 is a bad tranny, But according to a professional race shop, it isnt a Borg Warner T5.

I have seen some of these models in person. Crazy shit.

Sweet project. One of the few that are the same color as mine. Good luck. Your maxima should make that 500 mile rally no problem

I feel that you may be right. Normally with most crush based systems the idea is that you dont want to put a lot of torque on the bolt, just enough for it to seat and seal. But in this case it seems that the surface may be compromised and needing me to apply more than normal torque. I believe I did get it to seal (maybe.....) but now I am having issued bleeding, looks like I am gonna have to get a vacuum bleeder.