captaingamez

That Silvia is so beautiful I almost shed a tear. Its so rare to see someting clean anr propper like that in a world where ugly body parts, fake wheels, and #MOARLOW rule supreme. Its nice to see that other people still have good taste.

I dont know if VTOs are made in the US, but I have heard that they stand by their products pretty well. $800 is not that bad if you ask me. You dont even want to know what I have into the Ray's.

Nice!, seems that they have the best selection of springs at Coleman.

Nice, Are those 9"s? I was going to go up in width but mine fit dead flush with the body line. Brian from 4th Up just built a set of 9s.

Who predicted that? Better question, Who cut production? one cant happen without the other. supply/demand

Gas is at $1.92 a gallon here.

^Those are Recaro LX-C. Mine are LX-B. I would kill for the C bottom. Trans Ams also came factory with the Mesh headrest, which was an option when buying the seats aftermarket. I got lucky because mine came with the rare, albeit less cool looking, Ortho headrests.

Thats funny I was just looking at the AFCO springs....

He is telling me basically that the AGX needs to have a heavy spring or it will feel bouncy. They said if I dont run a heavy sway bar then the heavy spring rates will feel like I am running lighter spring rates with a heavy sway bar. Idk what to think. They charge alot for Eibach springs, an extra set is like $130 from T3, but I have other sources probably cheaper.

Ok, so I talked to T3 today, and they are telling me that I should run a 300lb front spring if using an MR2 insert, and a 350lb if its an AGX insert. Does this sound too high? That is drastically different from what I was thinking, but I assume that they know their stuff right???

I didnt notice some things in the ad when I made my earlier comment. I dont know if its worth that now honestly. Are they really becoming that rare? And popularity wise it seems that old Toyotas are the in thing right now.

From a junkyard for blown out shit thats a pretty bad price.

Haha, I figured as much. I will have to check the weight, but that is what I am estimating. I will be ordering the T3 kit as soon as they open after new years. The rears will come next.

Jesus. Well they are becoming collectible as hell, and a really good all original is always worth more than a fully restored car.

So in front I am going to be running Project Mu height adjustable camber plates T3 Weld on kit MR2 SW20 Front KYB AGX roll center spacers What spring rate should I be looking for in the front? Obviously I am used to tuning newer chassis that require extremely high spring rates due to less motion ratio, so I am a little new to putting these lighter springs in these cars. From my research, I need to use about a 250-275lb spring in front, not sure about back yet, but my front weighs in around something like 1500-1600 lbs Anyone have any suggestions?

I am going to try running the 90-95 SW20 (MR2) rear insert in the front. Has anyone had experience with the KYB AGX and about a 250lb spring?

Would be totally epic, but I imagined it to be similar to the size of a 1FZ-FE, the Toyota I-6 4.5 liter. A guy put one of them in a Supra in Canada and he had to make a special tall hood to accommodate it. But it would be completely insane to do.

Datsun gods like real wheels......

Hey as long as you like them brotha. But a perfect example is one of my best friends, He had MBs for a looooong ass time and just a few days ago he got the wide Mitsubishi Starion wheels and his first reaction was that he has real wheels.

VQ would be epic. Or VG. Theres only one guy that has a VG and I think it has a big ass single turbo running like 10.5s.

Use a Nissan V8 or a Toyota V8. Any engine with the cam in the block is a giant leap backwards in technology over an L. Yes it will be more work, but then you will be unique, unlike the other two people that put SBCs in this chassis. Nissan TB48, 4.8 liters of inline 6 fury. Too bad its impossibly large. Or just stick with your L24 and get a L26 rotating assembly and turbo it. You are talking about more power when you are still running stock fuel injection, so I am not sure what you think your gaining without replacing that first, or course if your heart is set on a v8 instead of an inline 6 then thats useless to you anyway.

I am looking for some advice on what I should do to have the pest performing suspensino and get 1.5 inches lower. I have alot of ideas but no clear direction and there is so much information to wade through about the different options I am just not sure which way to go right now. I am looking into inserts, tube shortening, and adjustable spring kits, but I just dont know yet. All advice is appreciated and will be put to good use.

Thats bitchin. Does your roof rack whistle?

Not close at all. In front easily a couple inches. In the rear I got at least 2 inches before the tire hits the control arm, and 3 inches before it hits the shock. You could easily put a 225 or maybe even a 235 in the rear. In front your steering angle will cause problems if you go too wide. Not sure how wide though.

205/50 on a 15x7 +15 rear and 15x6.5 +15 front. Going lower shouldnt be a problem, there is tons of room in these cars for wide wheels and low.