RoadRace

I'm not the best tube bending guy - i really can appreciate a well bent hard line 🙂 Right now i have the braided lines in all the factory locations, i was talking to another 510 racer and he had a good idea and i might make a winter project of it and replace the rear hard lines i just bent, and make them braided flex lines. Russell sells the adapters and ready-made lines in various lengths, you'd just need to measure what you need. it would make it a lot easier to change the rear cylinders with #3 braided flex lines...plus i wouldn't have to look at the hard lines i made lol https://www.russellperformance.com/3an-to-10mm-x-1-0-male-brake-adapter-fitting-with-inverted-flare-pair-641431.html https://www.russellperformance.com/shop/brake-clutch/competition-brake-hose-assemblies.html?_=1787834987143&fitting_size=16030

Turns out the rear brake hard line on the lower control arm on the 510 has been rubbing metal on metal since 72 and it decided to crack. our cars are not getting younger - this is just a reminder to look at things where metal on metal contact happens

the funnier part to this is the Mustang II - not super sure, but i'm thinking that's not gonna be a hot seller this season🤣 like the ad used to say "Mustang 2, Fun 0" 🤣

nice work on the dime. yes, life definitely has a way reminding us we are not in control of our lives....

@iceman510 this summer has been a bear! - however, im getting to my first race with the 510 this weekend @Rotarded my brother is nearby and i've asked him to check it out!

its weird - i break down the entire set up each time, meaning i took the head off, put the dial indicator on #1, confirm TDC and bolt on the degree wheel, set up the pointer. put the head on, line up the cam on whatever 1-2-3-4 hole on the gear, set up the dial indicator on the intake valve and do it again. this makes no sense...

i did exactly that, cam hole 1, line up the notch/line - and the intake centerline was 99.5 deg, it should be 107, so at the #1 position (on the cam gear i posted, which is not a stock gear) the cam is installed 7.5 deg advanced. When i put it to position 3, and line up the V with the line on the plate, just like you've shown, the intake valve is starting to open before anything starts moving - which is wrong. when i line up the V with the line on the plate in Position 4, #3 piston hits the valve after a 1/4 turn and i can't turn the motor over.... thats why I'm wondering if i should be using the co-ordinating dot at the tooth, and line that dot up with ??? and not be concerned with the notch/line relationship. Ive contacted isky last week, they have not got back to me - i had a couple other questions about this cam i wanted them to answer as well note: I'm going to try a stock cam gear, i got one arriving on friday - but this should work as well...should work lol

The vacuum leaks will have an effect across the rpm range, fix that and re-evaluate, remembering that off idle performance can be attributed to idle jetting and pump shot from the shooters. the wide band is showing how useful it it is already, good stuff. keep us posted.

Cam is an Isky L4. what I’m looking for is the relationship between the hole in the cam gear, its same-named dot at the gear tooth, and the notch/retainer plate line- how do all 3 of those work together?? Because I can make the hole in the cam line up with the notch in the back of the cam gear and the line on the retainer plate, but the same-named dot on the gear tooth appears to have no specific alignment with anything from what I’m seeing If I have hole 4 on the cam, what/where is the cam tooth dot 4 supposed to be pointing to or aligned with and is the notch at the back of the cam gear still supposed line up with the retainer plate line in all of the 8 positions regardless of which one the cam dowel pin is locating on??

From last year. Will put a couple up from this year as soon as I’m on the track again. Hoping for mid Aug

keep in mind that the dominant B/Sedan L18's are making 220hp at the flywheel and use a ported A87 small chamber. i have 3 of them and a welded U67. a complete A87 i bought for $300. U67 was $50. I'd like to have a v912 but purely for Nostalgic purposes, because it needs to be finished/machined/ported and I know its not going to make any more power that the A87 when I'm done.... and a v912 isn't worth as much as a 219, again, for nostalgic/restoration purposes. by buddy bought a complete 219 and he paid 900 CDN as cast, no porting, so about $5-600 USD. then he sent it out for porting, thats where the money is.

Good Morning - i've got the "1 2 3 4 A B C D" cam dowel pin holes in the cam gear, with co-ordinating "1 2 3 4 A B C D" dots around the outside at the teeth. i'm wondering if anyone has instructions of what/how the alignment marks work? i thought i knew - I've used these on many other motors for a very long time, but after starting at P1 and finding the cam intake CL is at 99.75 deg when it should be 108, I reckoned I'd go to P3 - but P3 didn't line up the notch on the back of the cam gear with the line on the cam retaining plate without the intake valve starting to open already. so I go to P4 and now the motor turns about 25 degrees and locks up, feels like its hitting a valve back on cyl 3 or something - its hotter than a snakes ass in a wagon rut out in the garage and the sweat rolling into my eyes was enough of an excuse to walk away from it yesterday. if we need to line up the notch in the back with the line on the retainer plate, what do the dots on the teeth do? is there a separate alignment for them? its not like a normal cam gear where you line up the dots, the datsun has that ret plate/notch relationship that must be maintained....i cant find any instructions on line - i have no idea who makes this cam gear thanks 🙂 note to self: get the comp timing chain adjuster with the limiting tab....

@moocowman sounds like you got a hold of it. For reference, i run a Holley 14PSI pump and regulator, 3/8" fuel line. the trick with the Holley regulators is that they ALL come with a higher pressure spring, made to deliver fuel at 6-8 psi, and when you regulate that to 2-3psi, it doesn't work so good - BUT holley makes a Spring/diaphragm kit you can swap into that regulator that is made to work at 1-5psi and still deliver adequate fuel supply, which is what i have done. Also, if i may, the gauge under the hood will allow you to set fuel pressure at idle, allow a quick check to make sure the pump is pumping ok. Whatever rpm you zing it to while parked has very little impact of the fuel supply while the car is in operation. The difference being that the engine is not under load. The fuel pressure will drop under load because the engines fuel requirements vary greatly from stationary to WOT and say 100mph for example - remembering that the Drag increases with the square of the speed, the engine will be drinking a lot more fuel at 100mph than 10 and 60 mph, and this puts increased strain on the fuel system...the fuel pump will drop pressure and sometimes can't keep up...which is why i run about 4x the calculated fuel requirements for the power output i am running, and regulate it down with high volume in mind, and low pressure. if i lose a belt, if the alternator stops charging and voltage drops, the pump dies off....having the fuel pressure gauge visible to the driver while driving will tell you what the system loss is at max load, that is also considered peace of mind for your fuel system 🙂

That’s good news - but the vapour lock could be a persistent pain; potentially, after you’ve got the carbs sorted - look at a “cold can” for the fuel line. I’ve done that with favourable results in the past. Moroso makes an off the shelf cold can, but I just made one; i spooled a copper line inside an Edward’s coffee can. Filled it with Ice - problem solved.

Fantastic - thank you!!