captaingamez

The grounds are good all the way to the relay and past. I tested the ground circut on high and low beams on all the light sockets and it is great, but dim test light every time on the Red/Yellow wire. There are only two places R/Y goes, it comes out of the column switch (good power there) and a lead goes to the high beam indicator along the way to the headlights, which recieves ground when the high beams do. Not sure on the glass housing, I think they are, I will check. The problem presents itself when there are no headlights hooked up at all though, so I dont think it has anything to do with the lights themselves.

no, when I got the car the lights did this same thing. I am fairly certain there is a fault somewhere I am going to have to repair. The wiring has guaranteed to have never been taken apart before. I can not light a test light at the terminals, its definitely in the wiring, not the bulbs, not the terminals, not something loose. Power comes directly from the column switch and does not go through a relay. And I have power at the column going into the harness. It also shows power on my multimeter, if I ws going off the multimeter alone, The system would show all good, but when I use the test light, a different story....

Yeah I was thinking that too. Could be for an 810/910 instead of a maxima/910, they do have some slight differences. However that still doesnt explain what in the hell is going on. I am going to start backprobing wires by cutting open areas of the harness. If I am not getting power through R/Y, that only explains some of the problem. I know one thing for sure, this fu*#^ng sucks. But I did buy the car like this....

Welcome to datsuns.

Ok, I do not have a 510. I have a 910, or Maxima if you will. The wiring is not the same as a 510 or a 521.

Because they require no apologies to true car enthusiasts. B)

I should also note that I have power on the R/Y at the column..... But not at the headlights........

The issue I am having is that the low beam on the driver side is dim, might just be the ultra low beam lighting up actually, I have to recheck with the test light. Then when you go to the high beams the driver side works totally normal, and the passenger side just keeps the low beam illuminated. (possibly the ultra low too, I have to check this also) Perhaps what I should be asking right now is "does the backwards wiring matter and does it contribute or have no effect on the issue" Does it really matter which headlights get their power from where?, No. Could this be causing both issues I am having, if getting no power on R/Y? Yes. Anyones thoughts are greatly appreciated.

Idk what is up with all the people with broken TC rods, all I can think is that their either damaged or badly designed from factory on 510, most of this I am hearing about 510s, not Zs. Poly vs a steel rod, should pretty much never result in the steel rod failing, unless something else is wrong.

power comes in on the R/Y (R/W for passenger side) directly from the column switch, after the fuses, according to the manual. Then switching the high beams switches the relay, which switches which lights receive ground (on R/G for the high beam circut, and on R for the low beam circut)

The harness has never been cut into. The actual wires coming out of the harness are incorrect and in the wrong places according to the manual. The headlights themselves are not likely the originals, but they are correct.

Unimogs, and G-wagens, two of my favorite Benz. You know Reza Pahlavi originally suggested the G-wagen to Mercedes, I find that highly interesting.

My harness has never been cut into, but My headlight wires are not correct. My car has 4 lights in the front, 2 low/ultra low beams on the outside and two high beams on the inside. According to the service manual, there are two fuses, one fuse for High/low beams onthe right side, the other for the lights on the right side. driver positive is supposed to be R/Y for both passenger positive is R/W for both However..... My driver high beam is R/W, low beam R/Y Passernger High beam is R/Y, low beam R/W WTF? The wiring diagram in the book says R/Y should only be on one side and R/W should only be on one side........

That would be great!. Let me know!

Still really nice cars, nothing wrong with them.

The pic on the website did, lol.

Wait a minute,..... I actually have something to celebrate on Easter? SWEET!!!! I wont feel left out this year!.

Considering I have mounted a ton of engines many different ways, A lot on rubber hockey pucks, and a lot on poly mounts and a lot on solid aluminium, You are incorrect. The difference between poly and aluminium is MASSIVE. The difference between Poly and thick good quality rubber is not so much, when the rubber is new. When it gets old then the poly wins I used to have good quality rubber mounts, blew them up 3 times. I switched to poly and I have only gone through one set of them, and it was my fault for mounting them off center (which was NOT the issue with the rubber ones), havent seen a motor mount failure on it in years.

I have over 100,000 miles on some of the most wear and tear polyurethane ES bushings. I track, I race, And I drive the living piss out of my car. They are all in incredible condition. Not sure where any of you guys are basing your negative opinions on Urethane at all. Once it is broken in it functions perfectly well, not withstanding old worn other parts that needed to be replaced anyway in all likeliness. After 100000 miles, My Ureuthane is all still perfectly intact, and everything else it is attached to as well, and I have not lost any ride quality from rubber bushing failures. And I am not talking about just some mount bushings, I have Urethane on EVERYTHING IN MY ENTIRE CAR (2002 SI). And I have compliance bushings, not bushings that require compliance, Compliance Bushings, meaning it actually flexes on the bushings rubber (poly) as the pivot point. Tons of people run the full ES kit on S30s and S130s and never have any issue, most all of them experience a drastic improvement. Not to mention they are completely silent and I do not grease them........ever............. I am putting Poly on the Maxima too. And it will function perfectly fine. Back to the original question, Both are great companies, as I said I have put over 100k on ES parts, but I will be buying some of both for my Maxima in the near future, so I would say either are likely a good choice in my opinion.

Awesome!

Unfortunately no, I dont have that, nor the plastic insert under the handle, nor the pad in the bottom of the box. But the console is sturdy and has a new shift boot......... I would like to figure a work around for this.

Thats awesome.

^they dont weigh diddly dick though, lol. I will be the first to say that ANY engine can be built to be reliable and make good power. I think they just get a bad rep cause people build them wrong and screw them up really bad because they used to be so cheap to get ahold of. Everyone can build an engine, only some can build it right. WTF someone make with the Pr0n!!

The bad rep comes from newer VWs. They tend to last very well and be pretty reliable.........within the warranty period. After that they can get bad, fast. There is far too much plastic in them, and not quality plastic, shitty plastic. They have electrical issues a lot of the time around 150,000+ miles, I have two friends with interior plastics that keep getting worse and worse, and I am talkin about 2005 and 2003 cars, not that old. They also produce barely any power, the current GTI is rated at like 211hp, with a turbo!!!!!, thats pathetic when some MFGs (cough cough.....Honda) is putting out an NA with 207 HP and getting 32 MPG with it.

Meh, WolksVaggen....