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Uh, Oh... surprises... timing cover...


hessianben

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Well, when I bought this motor, the PO had already removed the valve cover, head bolts, camshaft bolt, cam gear, and head bolts- with the chain and gear just sitting

in the cover.

The PO had barely begun to attempt to replace the headgasket, and had given up.

 

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I pulled it all apart, and while cleaning, found what looked like a slice in the bottom of the timing cover!

 

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It took me a second, but then realized that the chain must have gotten wedged

in the bottom of the tcover, and then they tried to turn the crank bolt.

 

Congratulations. Chain slice.

 

So, can I patch it with JBweld?

Or, should I not risk it, and pull the cover from the working L16?

 

 

Options?

Thanks!

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"So, can I patch it with JBweld? Or, should I not risk it, and pull the cover from the working L16?"

 

You are in Huntington Beach, there are many aerospace industry qualified welders there who can Aluminum weld that puppy to look better than new. Shouldn't cost more than $25 for a first class job. I had my R 1600 finned aluminum valve cover's cracks [between the retaining stud holes] rewelded and you really have to look hard to find the repair. Support your local businesses, they ned the work during this recession.

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That is definitely an L20B cover and no, the L20B cover is 2cm taller than the L16/18 and the L24/26/28 Z car. To tell at a glance look at the top left and right sides. An L20B will have 2 bolts on each side one above the other. The L16/18 and the inline 6 L only have one bolt. Change that $5 rear tranny seal while it's out, easy and you have to change the timing cover one anyway. Could save you having a drippy one later.

Edited by datzenmike
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You are in Huntington Beach, there are many aerospace industry qualified welders there who can Aluminum weld that puppy to look better than new. Shouldn't cost more than $25 for a first class job. I had my R 1600 finned aluminum valve cover's cracks [between the retaining stud holes] rewelded and you really have to look hard to find the repair. Support your local businesses, they ned the work during this recession.

 

Well, I took that hint and did some research-

 

found a place close to my house called Sertec Precision Machining-

they make prototypes of everything from performance/custom automotive to aircraft parts in house! rows of cnc machines and lathes....

their welder was in, and he busted this out within the hour for $20!

 

deal!!

 

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So, thanks for those who replied with possible donor covers-

but I'll give this a whirl first!

 

thanks!

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Glad to see this worked out easily for you.

 

I have a question since the thread is over and it's on topic. Has anyone ever tried braising alum with special rod? I seen some vids on youtube that were very convincing. Looks like something we could do at home for free in these instances. Opinions? Experiences?

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I have a question since the thread is over and it's on topic. Has anyone ever tried braising alum with special rod? I seen some vids on youtube that were very convincing. Looks like something we could do at home for free in these instances. Opinions? Experiences?

 

Co-worker does this occasionally with RC truck parts. I havent seen any end results that looked good to me yet though. I'm sure that there must be a technique to get it right.

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Ya what I see online is to get the 2 parts to be joined as hot as possible and then fil and wipe, fill and wipe, fill and wipe. I'm sure heat control makes all the dif like most all braising. It reminds me of old school pig iron working, pre bondo.

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their welder was in, and he busted this out within the hour for $20!

deal!!

 

So, thanks for those who replied with possible donor covers

:thumbup: good to hear!!! local & $20 is cheaper than what most covers woulda cost ;)

 

 

 

im going to have my Z24 cover modded to mate w/the L head, gonna call these guys to get an est :D

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