nukeday Posted February 5, 2009 Report Share Posted February 5, 2009 Can someone confirm if there is another datto squirrel cage that would work? Looks like the Z car style would fit, but I'm not sure on the size of the blower cage, as mine is completely missing. I've looked through posts here and the 521 manual but I'm not finding a PN that crosses over. I'm working on more thorough 'searching', so please forgive me if I've missed this. I'm still looking :) Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted February 5, 2009 Report Share Posted February 5, 2009 Hope I didn't put you off with my comment about the searching the other day......I was trying to say not to feel bad about not finding it.....It took me half an hour and I knew exactly what I was trying to find....so don't feel bad about coming up short. I kinda got on a mission since I knew I should be able to find it. Anyway.... So you're missing the entire heater box for the 521? ...or just the motor/fan? Even if 95% of the two parts were the same, a small detail like cable attachment or mounting hole locations would cause it to have a different number. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 5, 2009 Report Share Posted February 5, 2009 Color too! Quote Link to comment
nukeday Posted February 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2009 (edited) I printed out the drawing from the manual to see what it's supposed to look like. Sure be nice if someone nearby with a 521 was on here. I could just look at one that's not all torn up. Regardless, most of the assembly is there, but the faceplate for the heater box has been removed and the fan and squirrel cage are missing. The assemlby looks very similar to one in my old Luv, but I'm not sure what the diameter is on the cage or the depth of the motor (facing the firewall). I think it's a pretty standard 3 hole mount for imports of this vintage... Edit: I just looked at a burnt up Luv blower I have here and it's much too big to fit. :( Edited February 6, 2009 by nukeday Quote Link to comment
sdsurf Posted February 5, 2009 Report Share Posted February 5, 2009 I may have an extra one... I printed out the drawing from the manual to see what it's supposed to look like. Sure be nice if someone nearby with a 521 was on here. I could just look at one that's not all torn up. Regardless, most of the assembly is there, but the faceplate for the heater box has been removed and the fan and squirrel cage are missing. The assmelby looks very similar to one in my old Luv, but I'm not sure what the diameter is on the cage or the depth of the motor (facing the firewall). I think it's a pretty standard 3 hole mount for imports of this vintage... Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 6, 2009 Report Share Posted February 6, 2009 Here ya go... but only pictures Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted February 6, 2009 Report Share Posted February 6, 2009 Hey, what's the fan look like... Arethe 620 ones similar? My Jeep may get a datto part yet :D Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 6, 2009 Report Share Posted February 6, 2009 I used a Mazda motor and fan in my 620 once. Had the triangle mounting bolts like the 521. Had to use washers for spacers. Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted February 6, 2009 Report Share Posted February 6, 2009 The one on the left in Mike's pics is from a 520, the one on the right is a 521. The 520's had the grate on the front and the bigger motor. You can see the hole is a bit smaller on the 521 unit. Here's some more pics.....Sorry....don't have a better one handy of the enclosed unit. Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted February 6, 2009 Report Share Posted February 6, 2009 ...oh...either unit should fit and plug in....I'm about 90% sure on that. So what parts of it do you have? Quote Link to comment
nukeday Posted February 6, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2009 Thanks for the photos and the discussion. Here's what I'm working with: I picked up a 521 blower motor and cage tonight (THANKS ADrummond!!), but I don't know if they work. Hope to test them tomorrow. This truck is titled as a '70, but the more I look at it, I'm pretty sure it's a really late '69. Not sure if there's much difference besides the front fender marker lenses. Mine are round. What's the function of the knob/shaft thingy on the lower right? Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted February 6, 2009 Report Share Posted February 6, 2009 (edited) Those are actually just reflectors and not lights, but yep...'69....sold/titled in '70. I was actually going to post all these pics in the MEND thread when I got a chance...but here's some more. I just did this work on wed, so you got lucky with the timing. The shaft at the bottom right is the valve. You can tell from the corrosion around the valve, that the PO's leak prob was the valve. I did find a really tiny pin hole in the tube behind it by pressure testing it. I cleaned it up and put some solder on it. I retested it at about 16lbs(a good bit more than it will ever see in use) and it held pressure for 20min before I called it good. Anyway....those pics will either be in a heater how to or the MEND thread :) There's a tiny screw on the side....remove it carefully! I then worked the valve out by twisting and pulling. A minute of glass beading and a new O-ring and the valve works perfectly again. :) Edited February 6, 2009 by mklotz70 Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted February 6, 2009 Report Share Posted February 6, 2009 Chances are that your new motor will work just fine. The wiring you have coming through the hole is for the resistor which let's you have a lower speed than high. Put that wiring back through the hole and up around the backside and reconnect it. The blue wire hanging out of the group will connect to the motor. the other side of the motor connects to ground ....3rd pic of first set. If the resistor is bad, you won't have low speed, but you should still have high speed if your switch is good. Clean all that crap out of the core now...it cuts off all the airflow. Quote Link to comment
sdsurf Posted February 6, 2009 Report Share Posted February 6, 2009 (edited) Those are actually just reflectors and not lights, but yep...'69....sold/titled in '70. I was actually going to post all these pics in the MEND thread when I got a chance...but here's some more. I just did this work on wed, so you got lucky with the timing. The shaft at the bottom right is the valve. You can tell from the corrosion around the valve, that the PO's leak prob was the valve. I did find a really tiny pin hole in the tube behind it by pressure testing it. I cleaned it up and put some solder on it. I retested it at about 16lbs(a good bit more than it will ever see in use) and it held pressure for 20min before I called it good. Anyway....those pics will either be in a heater how to or the MEND thread :) There's a tiny screw on the side....remove it carefully! I then worked the valve out by twisting and pulling. A minute of glass beading and a new O-ring and the valve works perfectly again. :) How did you pressure test it? I found that I have 3 heaters (one 520) and I want to check them all... Edited February 6, 2009 by sdsurf Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted February 6, 2009 Report Share Posted February 6, 2009 I bought a radiator pressure tester last year at the big swap meet for just such an occasion. I had to modify things a bit. Once I got my connections to quit leaking, I found the tiny hole. Quote Link to comment
nukeday Posted February 6, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2009 Wow, Mike thank you. Those photos of the cleaned up valve explain a lot. So are the flaps/cables only to direct air flow? Temp is adjusted through the valve on the core? I've also seen one of the those pump up garden sprayers used for a pressure tester. Do they make a bead blasting cabinet big enough to fit my entire truck in? hahaha... Quote Link to comment
MikeRL411 Posted February 6, 2009 Report Share Posted February 6, 2009 Wow, Mike thank you. Those photos of the cleaned up valve explain a lot. So are the flaps/cables only to direct air flow? Temp is adjusted through the valve on the core?. The core valve is "on/off". The diverter flap is closed for defrost assuming you have the dash ducts connected, open for room heat. "Temp control" is high speed / low speed fan. Pretty rudimentary but effective. Same system and heater core as the 410 and 411 sedans. Quote Link to comment
ppeters914 Posted February 6, 2009 Report Share Posted February 6, 2009 How did you pressure test it? I found that I have 3 heaters (one 520) and I want to check them all... You can also hook up a bicycle pump. Only need about 15-20 PSI. Key thing is to have the test system not leaking. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 7, 2009 Report Share Posted February 7, 2009 Mike my '71 had the smallest heater core I have ever seen. Just used to N AM junk I guess. Hard to tell in the pix but it seemed to be about the size of the palm of my hand. I don't remember it being that thick but it was over 30 years ago. I survived a 3-4 Ontario winters. Not because of the 'heater' but in spite of it! I eventually tore the glove box out and mounted a condenser from an air conditioner about 9" X 9" by 2.5" thick and a '50s fan and some hoses. That, did it. Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted February 7, 2009 Report Share Posted February 7, 2009 They are definitely on the small side. Even with all the air leaks gone, they still don't heat well on heat. The trick is to slow the air flow through the core. If you put it on def, you'll get much warmer air. If you put it on heat, the air flows through it so fast, it doesn't heat the air up much. So, if you must have floor heat, put the lever part way between def and heat. I've thought about putting some screen in the opening for the floor heat to try to slow the flow down a bit. You can also put in a warmer...190deg thermostat too :) Quote Link to comment
Justin Posted February 7, 2009 Report Share Posted February 7, 2009 I do have an extra one if sdsurf doesn't, PM me if interested ? (I'll probably just ask you to pay for shipping, although I will need to test it before shipping, as it's been in "the garage" for awhile and is now in an unknown condition; nothing worse than getting a "new" part that doesn't work!) Quote Link to comment
nukeday Posted February 7, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2009 Couldn't resist. I snuck out to the garage and hooked the little motor up to my jumper box. (I'd checked the manul to see if it would take a full 12V first.) Thar' she blows... Sorry the video is so crappy, the CF's in the garage weren't warmed up and this is maybe the 2nd time I've used the video feature on our camera... Quote Link to comment
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