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Various things I'm looking for to restore a truck I'm taking to college


Joecar

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6 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

It's a three position switch???

 

If so there is an off position so you can sit in the dark with a door open

There is a door position that turns light on when either door opens

There is an on position so you can read a map without opening a door.

 

The terminal (marked with red paint) on the far left should have power at all times. It should go to the bottom center terminal of the bulb. Is this what you called the middle cable?

Yea, I took it off to examine further and it looks like the points are corroded. Also the left connection isn’t attached like ther other one. Should it be? I can solder it back

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39 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

Try working the switch back and forth a few dozen times to clean the contacts.

Ive noticed it’s very difficult to move but I get it to go into the next one. 

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It's the contacts the switch arm rubs over. The arm itself may need a little WD-40 to loosen it up.

 

The interior light swings down to act as a cargo lamp in the back. That's why the ribbon.

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I think the switch works now. I have the test light grounded to bolt on the chair and when the light switch is in the top position the test light lights up, but when I move it to the middle and down position it turns off

3 hours ago, datzenmike said:

It's the contacts the switch arm rubs over. The arm itself may need a little WD-40 to loosen it up.

 

The interior light swings down to act as a cargo lamp in the back. That's why the ribbon.

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All I have are schematics.

 

Take the bulb out and test the center of the bulb socket for power. It should have power at all times. Be careful not to short it to the outer case that holds the bulb.

 

The bulb is turned on by grounding the outer case of the bulb socket either by the door switches, the switch on the lamp or the room lamp timer under the seat.

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28 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

All I have are schematics.

 

Take the bulb out and test the center of the bulb socket for power. It should have power at all times. Be careful not to short it to the outer case that holds the bulb.

 

The bulb is turned on by grounding the outer case of the bulb socket either by the door switches, the switch on the lamp or the room lamp timer under the seat.

Not getting any power to the socket. Should I move onto the timer?

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image.jpeg.38a65313570585524a636018a488b661.jpeg

 

There should be power to the center of the socket. Follow from the socket back. Looks like the Black/Yellow stripe wire going to that ribbon. Follow back checking every connection till you find where power is not getting through.

 

First is the Black/Yellow where it joins the ribbon on the right.

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Just found me a complete EFI for my truck off Facebook for $250. Can’t wait to put it back on my truck, current car drinks gas like crazy and idles above 1200 rpm

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51 minutes ago, Joecar said:

Do these truck sit at 1k rpm or a little less? 

i believe the book says 8-900 RPM. I have mine set at about 800. 900+ sounded too high to me. Anything under 800 was too low, and the engine starts running choppy. At least for my truck. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

My oil light came on while I’m as warming up my truck the other day. I start driving and it goes away. When I come back to idle it comes on. Could my switch be bad. Oil has been replaced recently

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1 minute ago, Joecar said:

My oil light came on while I’m as warming up my truck the other day. I start driving and it goes away. When I come back to idle it comes on. Could my switch be bad. Oil has been replaced recently

Could be a bad sensor or your oil pump is wore out but I would lean towards sensor. I think you can buy a mechanical gauge at a auto parts store that will have the right thread adapter and check it that way it is some sort of bpst thread. Mine sits about 25-30lbs at warm idle but I have seen some say 20lbs on a engine with some miles.

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On 5/24/2024 at 1:48 PM, Joecar said:

Do these truck sit at 1k rpm or a little less? 

 

For a 4x4 it's 800 +- 100. The trouble with a fast idle is mechanical advance can creep in an upset the timing. I would reduce the timing to 700 to be sure to set timing, then turn it up after. Why the 4x4 is 800 and the 2wd is 700 I have no idea. I see no reason they are the same engines.

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15 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

 

For a 4x4 it's 800 +- 100. The trouble with a fast idle is mechanical advance can creep in an upset the timing. I would reduce the timing to 700 to be sure to set timing, then turn it up after. Why the 4x4 is 800 and the 2wd is 700 I have no idea. I see no reason they are the same engines.

the only reason I could really think of is for when you are going offroad and maybe in some more technical stuff you might want to have a slightly higher rpm for starting out and idling around. That is the only excuse I can come up with.

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Having some transmission problems recently, Whenever I want to put the truck in reverse it’s very difficult to do so and the times it does go into gear somewhat it grinds very loud. Only way I can put it into reverse is either put it in reverse while the truck is off or when I first start it after a day. 

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34 minutes ago, NC85ST said:

Try pushing the clutch pedal a second time. It’s entirely possible you’re having clutch problems, most likely slave cylinder.

Just replaced it yesterday actually since I lost clutch pressure on the road. It seems like it goes into every gear except reverse

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