Distributor ID

[BvtnDave]

Sorting through the old stash of L-series 4-cylinder distributors today. Many similarities, some differences. (All on hand are single-point type).

As for identification, they seem to have stamped marks (ID for characteristics?) that may mean - what?

One thing I know for certain is the unit with the blue distributor cap came with the Japanese market L18 SSS I bought a very long time ago.

Thoughts on these? I'm inclined to use the SSS dizzy as my build is an L18 with the SU carburetors. What says the tribe?

[datzenmike]

Have a look of the distributor body for the part number. There 5 and 5 digits starting with 22100-?????

 

I can look it up by part number much easier. Otherwise I have to go through every distributor in every vehicle and not all have the D409 59K

 

 

Also the vacuum advance has a threaded fitting like the old style where its a copper line. I think the J13s had that but all the L series were rubber tube that just pushes on.

 

 

 

[KELMO]

I think I saw a dizzy with the threaded vac advance, out in the shop, in an "L" motor.

 

I'll have to do some looking this afternoon.

[datzenmike]

Could be, I haven't seen every one made. I've only seen it on Roadsters and the J13 in the 520. Ask 320 and 411 owners.

[banzai510(hainz)]

soem L16s had a threaded vac adv. I just put the tube over it anyways. once spinning I dont think it takes alot for it to move it

 

be nice if each distributor had the mount that went with it.  Incase the mounts and timing plate are diffent one will not install it and the rorot points off

Edited February 18 by banzai510(hainz)

[BvtnDave]

Thanks All for your feedback and input. After careful examination, the numbers I shared appear to be the only ones present. Also, it is evident none of them (regardless of the vacuum advance threaded/not-threaded attachment points) are not for a Roadster - as they have a different base with a tach cable drive.

So, the idea of using the SSS L18 unit remains top of mind.

[DARIN 510]

I always knew the SSS distributors were the D411s. 
this site talks about the details and has links for reference. 
https://datnissparts.com/x-new-l4-sss-single-points-distributor-l13-l14-l16-l18-l20b-22100-u2800-d411-88-replaces-d409-54/

[datzenmike]

It's just a points distributor no different that the others. What sets it apart (possibly) is the vacuum and mechanical advance settings and they are for an L16/18 with dual side drafts. Would that necessarily be the optimum thing to use on a 2 bbl L16/18 or and L20B?

[RLJ]

Mike,

if the spec page for the distributor calls out 10 degrees mechanical advance at 1800 rpm at the distributor. Is that 20 degrees advance at the crankshaft? Do the degrees double like the rpm does?

Thanks

[RLJ]

Just saw on the chart a note that says:

Note: If distibuter is checked on the vehicle, double the RPM and degrees in tables below to get crankshaft figures.

Very good distributor chart in that link Darin provided. 

[datzenmike]

Total full throttle advance should be about 32 degrees. As the initial timing is 12 degrees that leaves 20 for the mechanical so 10 degrees, or half that, must be at the slower distributor. The RPMs should be doubled too 

[RLJ]

Read somewhere that dual SU’s like around 15 degrees initial, is this true?

[datzenmike]

We only run 12 degrees because of emissions. Next time you are checking your timing, twist the distributor slightly clockwise to advance it 3 or 4 degrees and the idle will go up because all engines are run at a lower advance on purpose. 14 degrees is where it would like to run but can't.

 

You can't just run 14 degrees because your 12 degree distributor has a mechanical advance built it of about 20 degrees. 20 plus 12 equals 32 where all L series engines like to run when flat out revved up. Running 14 plus 20 will mean it tries to run at 34 degrees and may ping or detonate. You could modify the mechanical to 18 degrees total and that would work.

[RLJ]

Going to try a distributor that has only 6 degrees mechanical. So 12 degrees plus 15 is only 27 total. Going to play and see how this distributor works out. If I need more mechanical advance I can file the advance slot. 
Have been welding the advance slot to reduce the mechanical advance in a distributor that had 14 degrees which gave 28 at the crank. This distributor limited my initial to keep from pinging and the SU’s didn’t like it. Also had weaker springs so the advance came in to quickly. Would like to play with stiffer springs but haven’t found anything yet. 
Any suggestions for stiffer springs?

[BvtnDave]

Loving this conversation.  The chart shared by DARIN 510 answers the questions regarding the numbers on the distributors I have in hand. And, the insight by datzenmike will be most helpful when tuning my build.

[datzenmike]

If the distributor has the part number on the side 10 digits starting 22100-????? I can look up what it originally came in.

[BvtnDave]

datzenmike: The distributor I intend to use (for my L18 SSS build) came off the Japan-sourced L18 engine I once had, and appears to only have D409-54K stamped on it. There are no other numbers (such as 22100-?????) evident.

On the bright side, the chart shared by DARIN 510 confirms the application for this unit is for '70-'74 L16 SSS & L18 SSS. So, given that the dizzy in hand is in VGC and is appropriate for my current L18 SSS setup, I am confident in using it.

One other cool thing  of note: The distributor came directly from Japan with a blue cap and blue rotor. These appear to be OEM type parts, and somehow, I found the same blue parts - new - in my stash. 

Thanks

[datzenmike]

I should have said only North American distributors.

[banzai510(hainz)]

Standard Moor Products had blue caps and rotors also. with copper contacks. NLA

 

nissan sold the black ones and Daiichi I think they were also