510 KA24DE Wiring issues.

[Goosie_the_xiii]

Hey everyone, 

I am currently having some issues with wiring a KA in my dime. I purchased the JBC Can/AM fuse box and followed the diagram. Every time I go to attach the battery, the fuse blows. I have gone through three so far.

 

I am using the Wiring Specialties s13 KA harness, WS 5-point universal gound, and the CAN/AM fuse box. I also have the stock 510 chassis harness and I made sure that was grounded as well. 

 

My main task right now is to make sure I am getting power the the fusebox, but I can't do so with the mini ANL fuse blowing every time. 

 

Thoughts?

[Crashtd420]

This won't be much help but something is grounded that shouldn't be..... 

 

I'm not sure how you could check ....

[Goosie_the_xiii]

I appreciate the response. 

[Crashtd420]

37 minutes ago, Goosie_the_xiii said:

I appreciate the response. 

I wish I had more to offer....

I know electronics on cars but I dont necessarily know how to explain what to do sometimes.....

 

Maybe temporarily disconnect grounds then connect the positive on the battery, my guess is one of the grounds may show power..

if not try to reconnect 1 ground at a time till it blows the fuse... this should get you pointed in the right direction.....

 

Also try isolating things... 

Unplug things like the engine harness...

The can am...

Or even the cluster or a rear harness.....

See if the problem still exists .....

This should narrow it down some....

[Crashtd420]

Side note .... 

Was this a runner before the swap?

 

If so start with the newest stuff you added.....

 

I was thinking remove the fuses in the fuse box too( separate test)

Connect the battery and install one by 1....

 

Probably should have asked before but what fuse is actually blowing?

[Goosie_the_xiii]

Thank you.

I purchased a stock Auto S13 engine and did the manual swap. I was told it was running, but you know how it is nowadays. 

 

I am trying to make sure I have power to the CAN/AM fuse box. The fuse that is blowing is the fusible link  (70 AMP ANL fuse) off the positive terminal. 

 

[banzai510(hainz)]

PM Ichouse on here. He can guide you thru this if not too busy

 

as crash said put the other fuses in one at time then see if the main fuse blows then youll know which  circut to look at down stream.

 

However that Fusable link gets fryed.  Is the stock wire harness also in there? I assume yes Can you separate it? I know you need the swictable 12v (blk white wire to turn the Can Am box on.

 

i think Jeff said soemthing is different between the auto and the manual. I assume the nuetral and park switch, But Im only guessing now. Get ahold of Jeff(Icehouse who sold it to you

[iceman510]

Blowing immediately means  you have a dead short to ground somewhere as Crash mentioned.  Follow the troubleshooting as mentioned to isolate the source.

[banzai510(hainz)]

put a test light in series the Blown fusable link.  +Batt to where the fusablble link wire going. Your test light will complete the circut

since your shorted to ground the TEST light will be ON. now disconnect circuts(fuses) till that TEST light goes OUT. When TEST light goes out then eleiminate items in that circut that could be grounded.

 

hope I got this right on my trouble shooting

Edited September 7, 2023 by banzai510(hainz)

[Goosie_the_xiii]

@banzai510(hainz) Yes, both harness are in there there the stock chassis harness and also the Wiring Specialties harness for the engine. I have the positive running from the battery terminal to the fuse box. Would the stock chassis have any interference with the WS chassis (minus the black/white)?

 

I reached out to Jeff but haven't heard back so looking else where for assistance. 

 

@iceman510 I'm check to see. At this point, I just want to check to make sure I can get power to the box to make sure I have everything laid out correctly. 

[banzai510(hainz)]

just put the test light as mentioned. then you can separate the chassis circut then the Wiring Specialtys circut.

 

When does this pop? when you turn the key or soon as you hook up the battery?

 

the test light works more for a battery drain with the KEY OFF.  KEY  OFFF!!!!

If you have the key ON then the test light procedure I gave wont work

then go back the CRAShED 420 method of trouble shooting

 

but basically I would disconnected the new stuff and see if fuse pops with the old chassis circut.

 

Jeff does ck his mail on here but he is busy also. so dont be in too much of a rush

[banzai510(hainz)]

10 minutes ago, Goosie_the_xiii said:

Would the stock chassis have any interference with the WS chassis (minus the black/white)?

I really dont think so. Its just powers up the new harness via the can am box

[Goosie_the_xiii]

@banzai510(hainz) As soon as I place the positive on the terminal it blows. 

 

 

I had to remove everything from where it was but this is how it currently is while I am troubleshooting. I have the power to the positive terminal. I moved my battery ground to see if it would have a better connection. I also went back and made sure all the bolts were tight and not loose. 

 

[banzai510(hainz)]

why not take a OHM meter and measure the =Batt Red to the chassis.  Im sure its going to short.

 

I see you have like multiple slice on the red battery cable.(is that a circut breaker with the black cover thing on it So that does go to the starter right? or where? I heard of multiple splice can cause a high restive short which can draw power.

 

matter of fack if you put a test light in between the batt and the postive cable there Imsure the test light will come on. But I cant remeber if the newer cars there is a little power going to the brain or not.

 

Need smarter people on this one

was hoping  Stoffregen Motorsports would get on this one also

 

Im thinking do like Crashed 420 said

Leave the main fuse in and have all the others pulled and install them till it POPS again then you know the circut.

 

shit if this motor was never run before maybe the alternator is shorting out

Edited September 7, 2023 by banzai510(hainz)

[Goosie_the_xiii]

@banzai510(hainz) The fuse is a mini ANL fuse. With some of the other research I have done, others mention utilizing it as the fusible link. 

 

I will check the OHM, not sure if I currently have one so I will have to check.

I have a regular battery cable going to the starter and then I have the power being jumped from the terminal. 

[iceman510]

16 hours ago, Goosie_the_xiii said:

I have a regular battery cable going to the starter and then I have the power being jumped from the terminal. 

 

What does this mean?  Positive battery cable to large starter lug, then jumper from there to what terminal?  What location on the diagram you showed above?  Through the 70A fuse to the 15A fuses and relays?  I am not familiar with the CanAm box.  Are all the 15A fuses and relays in that box?  It has one terminal for power attachment?

[datzenmike]

20 hours ago, Goosie_the_xiii said:

Thank you.

I purchased a stock Auto S13 engine and did the manual swap. I was told it was running, but you know how it is nowadays. 

 

I am trying to make sure I have power to the CAN/AM fuse box. The fuse that is blowing is the fusible link  (70 AMP ANL fuse) off the positive terminal. 

 

 

If the main fusible link blows then not the can am box as it's got fuses. That circled 10 amp would blow first LONG before the 70 amp. Also not any of the fuses in the car as they are low amperage and would blow long before the 70 amp fusible link would. Something hot 12v is connected to ground.

[Crashtd420]

Mike brings up a very good point about it blowing the main 70 and not the lesser value.....

 

The starter is a direct connection....

Disconnect the starter from the equation.... 

Possibly and internal short....

Check your crimp connector end isn't touching the starter body.... 

Same could be done/ checked on the alternator.... 

 

See if you can get power without those attached....

[banzai510(hainz)]

maybe the battery is hooked up to the wrong side of the selionoid if thats is even possible???????????

[Goosie_the_xiii]

The fuse that is circled is a 70a fuse.

 

I spoke with Jeff last night. And he had me go back to the box to make sure things weren't touching. The power terminal to the box shifted slightly and it was touching the casing on the fuse box. It seems like that was shorting out the 70a. 

 

I trimmed the cable terminal to make sure there was enough clearance (and give) for when I reinstalled. 

 

After making that modification, the 70a is not blowing when putting the positive terminal on the battery. 

 

However, I am still not receiving power to the fuse box. I looked at a 510 wiring diagram and traced the black and white wire to the ignition coil. Jeff mentioned using that for the fuse box. But still not having any luck. 

I am checking on a starter and alternator today. Since I am not sure how the motor was in the previous hands, I am going to eliminate any other issues. 

[banzai510(hainz)]

20 minutes ago, Goosie_the_xiii said:

However, I am still not receiving power to the fuse box.

dont you have the orginal fusebale link wire with the round lug for the starter cable hooked up.????? that wire feeds the whole fuse box.  one side should have 12volts then switch key ON the power feeds (Blk /white wire/to WHERE the  orginal coil was

[banzai510(hainz)]

23 minutes ago, Goosie_the_xiii said:

The power terminal to the box shifted slightly and it was touching the casing on the fuse box.

Yep that will kill it!

[Goosie_the_xiii]

@banzai510(hainz) I have the black and yellow plugged in the starter solenoid. 

 

Ans this is the current rat's nest of wiring I am working with. The Black/White is spliced and ran back to the fuse box. But I found the ign coil last night and Jeff mentioned using that. So temporarily, I placed that wire back on the spliced wire to see if It would close the circuit. 

 

[banzai510(hainz)]

the black white wire is the ignition coil wire. when key is ON. this comes from the FUSEBOX. youll have 12volts. On the orginal 510 it only get grounded when the points are closed. thus charging the coil

 

with the NEW CAN AM box it gets the ground. the key is put to ON and then goes thru the relay and grounds

 

 

Yes the starter is the blk yellow wire. which is correct.

 

doesnt that big white wire feed the fusebox from the starter lug round connter??????????????????This feeds the FUSE BOX. so hook up the wire to the starter lug as usual(BIG ROUND CONNECTOR strter lug

Edited September 8, 2023 by banzai510(hainz)

[datzenmike]

70 looks like a 10. Not easy to see, but my fault.