The turbo I put on my z24 sits way too close to my brake booster

[Mr.Disprosium]

I turboed my z24 and the exhaust flange sits about 1mm from the brake booster and I even had to remove a stud but the heat messed up my brake booster, does anybody have any solutions? Any smaller or shorter boosters off a similar vehicle that would fit

[builte]

Fab a heatsheild 

[builte]

How many pounds are you pushing? And what pistons are you running? I know your looking for your answers but I need a few too my bad 😂

[RyanC]

Is it the booster or master that is getting hot?  Can you find a smaller one?

[datzenmike]

It's a truck. The booster is selected for a 3,000 pound? vehicle capable of another 1,000+ pounds of cargo. You don't want less braking with something smaller.

 

Where on the booster is it closest? A picture would be best several would be better.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Delete the booster. It's a small truck. You don't need power brakes.

 

If you delete the booster, you may want to resize the master cylinder too.

[datzenmike]

The problem with that is your braking is dependent on your ability to push down on the pedal. I had a failure of the one way valve and no vacuum was getting to the booster. I drove out the driveway and stepped on the pedal and without the added boost it felt like a brick. I pushed with everything I was worth shoving my ass up off the seat to get stopped. I would spare you that ball shriveling experience.

 

 

Can you post pictures showing where the turbo is near the booster. There are other options that keep the booster.

 

 

 

[RyanC]

I believe with booster installed and vacuum not workiing they are harder to push than if you delete the booster.  The 1600/510 never had one here is Australia, yep you gotta push but ....it was worse when the lines burst 🤪

[datzenmike]

The 720 is almost 800+ pounds heavier. The 510 has a 3/4" master and weighs 2,100 pounds the 720 is 15/16" and over 2,800 pounds. All cars after the 510 other than the 1200 were heavier and they all have a booster to help them stop. Without them the drivers would be exhausted in stop and go traffic. The 720 is big and heavy and needs the brake booster.

[wayno]

He said it has a Z24 so it is an 83+ something, the 1980 720 booster is a lot closer to the firewall, I do not have any photos of my 1980 720 on this laptop, here is a link to my thread, there is only one photo that shows the booster and it is not that good of a look at it, it is near the end of page 2.

 

https://www.bing.com/ck/a?!&&p=0ad22e3d11002d3eJmltdHM9MTY5MzAwODAwMCZpZ3VpZD0xZjYxMmI3Mi04OTdiLTY4N2ItMzlkOC0zYjg1ODhkMzY5ZWYmaW5zaWQ9NTE5Nw&ptn=3&hsh=3&fclid=1f612b72-897b-687b-39d8-3b8588d369ef&psq=1980+Datsun+720+diesel+ratsun&u=a1aHR0cHM6Ly9yYXRzdW4ubmV0L3RvcGljLzQyMzE3LW15LTE5ODAtZGF0c3VuLTcyMC1kaWVzZWwtZHVhbGx5Lw&ntb=1

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

On 8/24/2023 at 6:19 PM, RyanC said:

I believe with booster installed and vacuum not workiing they are harder to push than if you delete the booster.  The 1600/510 never had one here is Australia, yep you gotta push but ....it was worse when the lines burst 🤪

Yes, this is true. Resizing the master, to a smaller bore, would increase the leverage and give better pedal feel.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Though not everyone's first choice, you could always move the whole pedal assembly over. I've done that and it is a bit of work, but done right, nobody would notice.

[Mr.Disprosium]

Im pushing around 10 psi right now, turned all the up I made 15 pounds. I'm running stock pistons. The turbo sits close to the front lip where the master connects, its hot on the booster not the master. I will try to get. A picture. It's my daily driver right now so I've been driving with no brake booster since I made this post

[Mr.Disprosium]

https://imgur.com/a/NnpcZa2 here the picture you asked for

[Mr.Disprosium]

Btw I'm too tall and my size 14 feet says moving the pedals over is not an option

[wayno]

I cannot see your clearance for the clutch master which is very important if you want suggestions, can you shorten the pedestal?

 

The 720 came with a few different boosters, some more pancake looking, the one you have, the 1980 was closer to the firewall, go to a wrecking yard that has 720s in it and see if you can use another version.

 

I use the 1973/1974 Datsun 620 version on all my builds using 1986 Nissan 720 brakes, it works fine for me and it is small compared to what you have, I believe the photos below are of the 620 booster with a Ford Courier brake master with a remote reservoir.

 

 

 

There are other boosters like the Ford Courier Booster/Master, that truck may have aftermarket parts, you just have to look around and find something that will work for you, that 1966 Datsun 520 truck engine compartment is a lot tighter than what a 720 has, more room opens doors I do not have, but you do need fabrication skills/tools.

 

This is my 1969 Datsun 521 SD25 turbodiesel, there is no room for anything else in this engine compartment, this truck has the Ford Courier booster ans 1979 Datsun 620 brake master as I recall, the turbo is really close to my Booster(not as close as yours), I made a heat shield to try and protect the Brake master reservoirs, so far it has not melted them.

 

 

Edited August 29, 2023 by wayno

[datzenmike]

 

1/ Add a 3/4" spacer to the engine bracket where it meets the block on this side and section the other the same amount and shift the engine over 3/4". Then heat shield that turbo and the booster.

 

2/ You could also saw 1/2" out of that pedestal and weld it back up moving the booster to the rear by this much. The rod is threaded so move the clevis forward 1/2". I'm sure the clutch master isn't that close. Heat shields.

 

3/ Mark the ares where the turbo is closest and hammer in a dent. There's nothing in there but empty space for a vacuum. The diaphragm is in the middle. 1/2" should do. Again head shield both.

[RyanC]

That exhaust would be right up Corky Bells alley "the least exhaust is the best exhaust" 😏 Love it.

 

I vote getting the sledge out then making a heat shield 😁

[Mr.Disprosium]

So if all I gotta do is basically cut out a half inch of that and weld it back up I think that may be at my skill level, I will experiment with my bad booster and see if i can make it happen then i will probably heat wrap up turbo and downpipe

 

[datzenmike]

Make sure the clutch master has room for this

[thisismatt]

Or you could do a remote master/booster

[RyanC]

any vids of the exhaust through bonnet?  Is that shit legal over there? 

[datzenmike]

Not at all has to be routed at least behind the rear axle or to the side if in front. I suppose a stack up above and behind the cab is OK too. This is ok for tractor pulling or drag racing. You could probably get away with it till some dick head cop decides it's unsafe/too loud. (it is)

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

On 8/27/2023 at 1:49 PM, Mr.Disprosium said:

Btw I'm too tall and my size 14 feet says moving the pedals over is not an option

You bend the pedals so they remain in the same spot.

[Mr.Disprosium]

So my truck actually has a stack behind the cab but is not connected after installing the turbo, I hoodstacked it temporarily because i ran out of money for a full exhaust but i am making a 2.5 inch downpipe then 3 inch step up to a bedside exhaust exit. This turbo 720 is actually my daily driver and I've been driving without a hood until I get an exhaust made and the cops around here do not care they don't even look twice.