Electric power steering

[Lonewolf1990]

I have a steering column and box from a 1990 d21 , is it possible to use these parts on a 620?

[datzenmike]

Take a look at which side of the frame rail the pitman arm is on, on the 620 and then the D21. I'll help, the D21 (just like the 720) is on the outside.  Possible? anything is possible like walking to New York.

[]2eDeYe]

Anything is possible with the right amount of skill and/or $ 🙂

I have a 720 column in my 620. 

[datzenmike]

You just need a wire feed wrench is all.

 

I also put a 720 column and power steering in my 620.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Electric power steering on a D21?

[Lonewolf1990]

44 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Electric power steering on a D21?

 Naw using the steering box and column from a d21 onto a 620 and adding a electric steering component 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

If your 620 has the one piece column that bolts to the steering box, you'll need to modify it to be supported at the firewall. You'll also need to either machine your steering shaft to use a DD steering joint, or modify another shaft to fit your column. From there you can use any old shaft as long as it has the same diameter and spline as the input on the box.

 

Custom U-joints are available from many suppliers including Borgeson. Measure the input shaft on your new box and count the splines. I recall there is a joint that fits the 720 box, which is probably the same as the D21 box.

 

Here's the Borgeson joint chart.

 

[Lonewolf1990]

1 hour ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

If your 620 has the one piece column that bolts to the steering box, you'll need to modify it to be supported at the firewall. You'll also need to either machine your steering shaft to use a DD steering joint, or modify another shaft to fit your column. From there you can use any old shaft as long as it has the same diameter and spline as the input on the box.

 

Custom U-joints are available from many suppliers including Borgeson. Measure the input shaft on your new box and count the splines. I recall there is a joint that fits the 720 box, which is probably the same as the D21 box.

 

Here's the Borgeson joint chart.

 

Appreciate it , thank u for the info 👍

[datzenmike]

D21 sector shaft and pitman arm are to the outside of the frame, the 620 is to the inside, a difference of perhaps 5" on the pitmam arm position. I doubt the cross rod, intended for small toe adjustments, will extend this amount.

 

Mount the electric steering into the 620 column. The D21 column, steering wheel and plastic clam shell will look hokey on a 620.

[Lonewolf1990]

21 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

D21 sector shaft and pitman arm are to the outside of the frame, the 620 is to the inside, a difference of perhaps 5" on the pitmam arm position. I doubt the cross rod, intended for small toe adjustments, will extend this amount.

 

Mount the electric steering into the 620 column. The D21 column, steering wheel and plastic clam shell will look hokey on a 620.

Can't on the 620 column cause it's a straight rod ,I need the u-joints  

[wayno]

I put power steering on my 521 way back(around 2003), what I did was  completely remove the 521 steering assembly and replaced the steering gear with a 521 idler arm, this makes a complete steering system with no way to steer it, I then had a custom center link made with a tie rod connection on the passenger side, I then mounted a 720 steering box on the frame as far as I could forward, I had to have the pitman arm machined to except the tie rod from the bottom instead of the top to clear something, I think it was to clear the driver side tie rod or maybe it was the tension rod, then I used the original center link to make the connection from the 720 steering box to the custom center link, I drove it for 15+ years this way, the only thing I did wrong was not weld sleeves in the frame to mount the 720 steering box(big mistake), the side forces from the power steering destroyed the frame in that area and I had to rebuild that area a few times, this was on my work truck which I had already converted to ball joints, but I can think of no reason it would not work on a kingpin front end also.

 

I installed a 720 tilt wheel column, but I believe a non tilt column shaft will mount using the existing 521 mount on the dash, there are other things to be dealt with depending on how nice one wants to make everything, the steering column plate can be removed or cut/modified to mount it solid to the firewall or I believe it will work with the stock 521 rubber gasket, I do not remember if you need the column with the knuckle at the firewall or steering gear, but I did it all without modifying/welding on the column.

[]2eDeYe]

 

 

 

 

 

This setup is from a a 2011 Nissan Versa. The plan is to keep it under the dash. I am hoping to find couplers but I may end up having to weld something 

[Lonewolf1990]

26 minutes ago, ]2eDeYe said:

 

 

 

 

 

This setup is from a a 2011 Nissan Versa. The plan is to keep it under the dash. I am hoping to find couplers but I may end up having to weld something 

I got my setup from the Prius , 

[]2eDeYe]

Wonder how different they are

[Lonewolf1990]

1 hour ago, ]2eDeYe said:

Wonder how different they are

Honestly it looks the same 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Cut the tube off close to the steering box and machine a piece of steel that will take a small seal, then weld that piece to the short tube sticking out of the box. Then cut the shaft sticking out of the box, machine two flats on the shaft and use a DD u-joint.

[Lonewolf1990]

6 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Cut the tube off close to the steering box and machine a piece of steel that will take a small seal, then weld that piece to the short tube sticking out of the box. Then cut the shaft sticking out of the box, machine two flats on the shaft and use a DD u-joint.

I can use the u joint off the electric steering kit and weld the u joints at the splines? 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

If you weld the joint, you need to make sure you can remove the shaft somehow. Plan where you weld joints ahead of time. I prefer not to weld any joints, but sometimes there's no other way.

 

Also, welding a joint means you're now relying on a weld for strength. If that weld is not great, you lose steering and you're dead. Welding a joint can also disintegrate the grease in the joint and burn the seals.

 

Let's start from the steering wheel and work down to the box.

- at the wheel, you've got your shaft going through the firewall. If you're using the column Redeye pictured above then it has a joint welded onto the end of it. That joint connects to another shaft. I would try to find a companion shaft with the correct splines. If you can't find the right splines, cut the joint off the column and machine the tip of the shaft for a DD joint (it's real easy to machine two flats on the end of a shaft).  I usually drill a couple dimples in the shaft where the set screws will be so they can hold without the possibility of slipping out. From there you go down to the box using another shaft.

 

Honestly, I'd probably focus on getting the right splined joint at the box with splines on one end and a DD on the other end. That way you can use a generic cut-to-length DD shaft and a generic DD/DD joint welded to the end of the column. Borgeson also sells DD collapsible shafts, which are a good idea because they add a measure of safety and can flex with the body movement on the chassis.

 

Confused yet?

 

[Lonewolf1990]

1 hour ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

If you weld the joint, you need to make sure you can remove the shaft somehow. Plan where you weld joints ahead of time. I prefer not to weld any joints, but sometimes there's no other way.

 

Also, welding a joint means you're now relying on a weld for strength. If that weld is not great, you lose steering and you're dead. Welding a joint can also disintegrate the grease in the joint and burn the seals.

 

Let's start from the steering wheel and work down to the box.

- at the wheel, you've got your shaft going through the firewall. If you're using the column Redeye pictured above then it has a joint welded onto the end of it. That joint connects to another shaft. I would try to find a companion shaft with the correct splines. If you can't find the right splines, cut the joint off the column and machine the tip of the shaft for a DD joint (it's real easy to machine two flats on the end of a shaft).  I usually drill a couple dimples in the shaft where the set screws will be so they can hold without the possibility of slipping out. From there you go down to the box using another shaft.

 

Honestly, I'd probably focus on getting the right splined joint at the box with splines on one end and a DD on the other end. That way you can use a generic cut-to-length DD shaft and a generic DD/DD joint welded to the end of the column. Borgeson also sells DD collapsible shafts, which are a good idea because they add a measure of safety and can flex with the body movement on the chassis.

 

Confused yet?

 

Yes very 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Sorry. I'm more of a hands on guy.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Measure the spline count and diameter of the box input. And I'll see if I can find an aftermarket joint that will fit.

[Lonewolf1990]

50 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Measure the spline count and diameter of the box input. And I'll see if I can find an aftermarket joint that will fit.

Appreciate  it 👍

[]2eDeYe]

Input is .6525 ish dia and 36 spline
Output is .92 ish and 30 spline