Richie Posted May 21, 2022 Report Share Posted May 21, 2022 so i recently bought and electric fuel pump and looking for some ideas on where and how to mount it. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/crt-p4070?seid=srese1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw-JyUBhCuARIsANUqQ_JN9BoEG31A7MOChKrPLN5J0qPzuhETGQ6sQMXVBY1npLovB5WzCscaAk-tEALw_wcB This is the fuel pump, it was recommended from a buddy of mine with the same set up I want but he mounting his in the front which i would prefer not to do. So these are my ideas: the first set of photos are the outboard side next to the fuel pump https://imgur.com/a/VAIdInV these photos are the inboard side: https://imgur.com/a/cTEDC7f Please let me know what you all think. or some ideas you have. thanks Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 21, 2022 Report Share Posted May 21, 2022 Four PSI is slightly high but ok with the stock carburetor. Webers like half that pressure. Can you mount it upside down? That would protect the wiring much better. Yes, inside the frame close to the tank. 1 Quote Link to comment
Richie Posted May 21, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2022 10 minutes ago, datzenmike said: Four PSI is slightly high but ok with the stock carburetor. Webers like half that pressure. Can you mount it upside down? That would protect the wiring much better. Yes, inside the frame close to the tank. So i have a regulator just in case. Gotta mount that also. I mean inside is cool but do you think it is hanging too low? Also do you think this fuel pump is over kill and i shouldve just gotten a smaller one? I was trying to make it look like the 70s almost because i was planning on mounting it in the engine bay. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 21, 2022 Report Share Posted May 21, 2022 Engine bay will work but the better position is as low and close to the tank as possible. Upside down would be better protected. Put the filter between the tank and the pump. It's not rated to have any pressure in it. Filtering the gas before the pump keeps trash out of it. What's wrong with the mechanical pump? 2 Quote Link to comment
Richie Posted May 21, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2022 18 minutes ago, datzenmike said: Engine bay will work but the better position is as low and close to the tank as possible. Upside down would be better protected. Put the filter between the tank and the pump. It's not rated to have any pressure in it. Filtering the gas before the pump keeps trash out of it. What's wrong with the mechanical pump? https://www.painlessperformance.com/wc/50102 Also Because I want to add a switch and not have any electrical problems, would installing a relay help to prevent electrical problems and be able to add a kill switch. I am tired of these fuel pumps. I have had three so far and each has gone out. And I would like electrical to help prevent thief. Lately three datsun have been stolen in my area at a datsun shop. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 21, 2022 Report Share Posted May 21, 2022 Originals last virtually forever but after market ones are crap. An original is around $90 so you get what you pay for. Don't forget the fuel filter up front is not designed to hold pressure from the pump. Nor is the hose from the line to the pump. Put the filter between tank and the suction side of the pump. 1 1 Quote Link to comment
Richie Posted May 21, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2022 3 hours ago, datzenmike said: Originals last virtually forever but after market ones are crap. An original is around $90 so you get what you pay for. Don't forget the fuel filter up front is not designed to hold pressure from the pump. Nor is the hose from the line to the pump. Put the filter between tank and the suction side of the pump. Got any recommendations for a fuel filter? should i use two? 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 21, 2022 Report Share Posted May 21, 2022 Get rid of the stock filter up by the engine. Only need one. Put it before the new electric pump. Something like this from Amazon... https://www.amazon.com/BOAT-MARINE-DISPOSABLE-FILTER-CAPSULE/dp/B00H93EMYG 2 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted May 23, 2022 Report Share Posted May 23, 2022 The Carter pumps like to push fuel, so near the tank is best. Lower than the tank too, or at least as low as possible. On the frame rail is a pretty good spot. If you're worried about it getting damaged, make a shield out of steel sheetmetal and bolt that to the frame to protect the pump. Filters, I'd use at least one. The Carter pumps hate debris and will not last a minute with any junk going through them, so a filter before the pump is a good idea. I would also have one in the engine bay so you can visually see when the fuel system is dirty. 3 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 24, 2022 Report Share Posted May 24, 2022 A liquid pump has virtually unlimited pressure on the output side but no pump ever made, no matter how powerful, can lift a liquid like water more than about 30 feet on the suction side. Atmospheric pressure is the limiting factor. Having the electric pump in the engine bay means the pump has to use some of it effort lifting the fuel a foot or two. This is not as much a factor with a mechanical pump that is driven by a 100 hp engine. 2 Quote Link to comment
Beer Snob Posted October 15, 2022 Report Share Posted October 15, 2022 So, my mechanical fuel pump just took a shit. I assume it's the diaphragm as it's leaking out the weep holes on the bottom. I have taken it apart and gave it the college try to save it, but it lasted a day. No big deal. I'd like to know what everyone thinks. Go new mechanical or new electric? The truck had a cheap Mr. Gasket electric pump from the PO, and it was o.k. He had it mounted on the fender well and it would occasionally lose suction (almost always at a stop light that just turned green😂) Causing me to have to jump out, rip off the supply line to the carb, reach in the window and turn the key, and then literally suck assist the pump to reprime! Sounds funny and it was like twice then it got old really quick. ANYWAY, I'm kinda a mechanical pump (if they came that way) but not a purest by any means (or at least on this project) kind of fellow. Sense the 320 has a solid fuel line it's a bit more intrusive to go with an electric. I don't mind spending the cash on a good NOS or factory pump if I can find the correct one for my J15. I thought J series motors were basically all the same from say J15, J13, J16 etc. but e-bays all over the place with "export only" and "J15 models from 74 to 80" kind of crap. I was led to believe that the J15 came out in 1969 and ran through 1980 and that's that. It shouldn't make any difference in what f%#king vehicle it came in, a J15 is a J15, yes?/No? This is actually an issue that I can take care of, but I value ALOT of the knowledge, opinions, and real-life experiences you all have so if you guys want to pitch in your $0.02, I'm all ears!🍻 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 15, 2022 Report Share Posted October 15, 2022 Electric pumps should be mounted as low and as close to tank as possible. This would eliminate priming problems. The '79 820 with air con and all the 720 electric pumps were on the frame just forward of the passenger side rear tire. 2 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted October 18, 2022 Report Share Posted October 18, 2022 The thing about those OEM frame mounted electric pumps is that they were very high quality as compared to most junk available these days. Facet makes one that was OEM on Datsun Nissan cars and trucks back then and is very high quality. It's not nearly as noisy as the Carter gear pumps and lasts a very long time. There are many to choose from, ranging from 2.75 psi to 8 psi. I think the 2.74-4 psi pump should work fine for you. https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/group.asp?GroupID=FACET12CYLIN 4 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted November 4, 2022 Report Share Posted November 4, 2022 Facet pumps as pictured above last for a long time. On the 720s there is a "Y" fuel line that is the carb feed and the return line also. The return has a metered orifice the helps to keep presurized fuel at the carb. 720 factory pumps run continuous unlike the aftermarket pumps that build pressure and shut off. 1 Quote Link to comment
620slodat Posted November 4, 2022 Report Share Posted November 4, 2022 I have a SD22 diesel and I'm wondering about the facet FAC 477060. Does anybody know if the electric pumps are flow on fail? In other words, if the electric pump is put just in front of the tank and the electric pump fails (or is shut off) will the fuel continue to be able to flow if the factory pump is used? I want to be able to use the electric pump as a secondary pump that will pressurize the system for diesel fuel and allow the factory fuel pump to work as usual. The factory pump is built into the injection pump on the diesel motor. I have a back problem, and if the problem gets worse I may not be able to bend over long enough to use the hand pump to bring fuel up to the factory fuel pump when priming the fuel system. My back is already causing a few problems and I'm trying to circumvent any possible future problems. Don 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted November 7, 2022 Report Share Posted November 7, 2022 Hi Don, I believe that the Facet pumps do shut off the flow of fuel when turned off. Facet/Purolator fuel pumps have a wide line of electric fuel pumps so there just might be a diesel priming pump in their line of pumps. Here is contact information for Facet/Purolator fuel pumps. You may call or email them. https://facet-purolator.com/ At the top of the page there is a red band that has phone # and an email link. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 7, 2022 Report Share Posted November 7, 2022 I'm expecting that the pump only prevents reverse flow when off. Could be wrong... Quote Link to comment
620slodat Posted November 9, 2022 Report Share Posted November 9, 2022 Thank you Charlie 69. I will try to remember to call them during daylight hours tomorrow. Don Quote Link to comment
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