1980 720 Headlights

[Veraciousreasoning]

Hey all,

 

Anyone do any modifications to their headlights? I just made a bunch of money from a crypto investment I recently bought out of and putting all of the money I made into the truck. I already ordered like 40 parts for the truck and bought a whole bunch of new interior stuff. I want to upgrade the headlights and wondering what everyone has done or suggest doing. I already ordered a lower fog light so just looking for the main headlights and high beans. I know LEDs are common but some people have problems with them. PLease post a link to amazon/ebay with what you go so I can make a decision. 

[datzenmike]

I find that good LEDs, really good ones, are several hundred each and all others exaggerate their output lumens and/or the beam pattern. I recommend HID but only using projector style housings as these have a ruler straight beam cut off. Regular bulb housings with HID bulbs blind oncoming traffic. Get bulbs and ballasts that support 50 watts. Bulbs should be in the 5,500-6,000 kelvin range which is sunlight temperature, the light our eyes are evolved to see best in. Purple are cool but produce less visible light.

 

 

[Lockleaf]

I very much intend to buy a set of Glass/Metal aftermarket H4 style headlight housings, then junkyard up a set of HID projectors.  Separate the glass from the metal of the housing, then cut the back out and fit in the projector, then reseal the glass to the metal.  Custom fitted, high grade HID swap.  I can't afford the $550 companies want for that exact same thing.

[Logical1]

I spent some money on a quality pair of LED headlights and also replaced my inner pair of sealed beams with H4 light housings. I then took time to focus them correctly. Wish I had links but it has been a while. The lights are nice and bright without blinding people(never get flashed) and I like the combination of LEDs and conventional lighting. The H4 housing are super nice if a lamp burns out you just pull it out of the back and drop a new one in.

[datzenmike]

Conventional lamps light up way faster than the HID and are good for high beams. Only trouble is much of the wattage goes to heat production. HID are basically mini arc welders.

[Veraciousreasoning]

There is so many options is kind of don't know what to do. 

 

I don't have to worry about blinding people. We are moving to a really small town in Northern Idaho in a couple weeks and I think the town has something like 150 people. Its in the mountains so I want them brighter than all hell. 

[datzenmike]

This is why you should get projector style with the large magnifying lens with LED or HID. There is a 'fence' inside that blocks 1/2 the light. The lens flips upside down so oncoming traffic are in the shade. High beams are where you can go really crazy as there will be no oncoming traffic.

 

 

 

 

[Veraciousreasoning]

1 hour ago, datzenmike said:

This is why you should get projector style with the large magnifying lens with LED or HID. There is a 'fence' inside that blocks 1/2 the light. The lens flips upside down so oncoming traffic are in the shade. High beams are where you can go really crazy as there will be no oncoming traffic.

 

 

 

 

 

Can you show me something like that on amazon? I kind of get what you are talking about but I kind of don't as well

[datzenmike]

I'm looking but can find LED ones and not sure if they have the cut off for low beam.

[DIY 1985]

I've had chronic problems with the headlight switch.  But, mine is a '85, and I know that the couple of combination switches that I bought to replace it with haven't been correct in terms of housing - the collar around the steering column is the wrong diameter.  So, I've been winging it, cleaning the contacts every year or so.  I still can't figure out if my harness uses relays, but, I know that there is arcing at the switch, and probably some wiring resistance that is adding to the problem, that keeps fouling the contacts on the combination switch for low beams.  The last time I did it, I also cleaned the internals of the lamp connectors by folding some 320 grit silicone carbide paper into a sandwich slimmer than 5/16" and using that as a tool for addressing the female connectors.

 

The stock wiring for the lamps appears to be like eighteen gauge, probably good when new, but, likely oxidized thru time.  There are two filaments in the corner/outter lamps, iiac.  Then there is the high beam setting, which also runs one of the lower wattage filaments in the corner/outter lamps, iiac.  So, basically three filaments (with splices) controlled by a two-position switch - yikes.  Also, the lamps have a ground wire.

 

A PO cut out a hole in the plastic molded part that is under the heater controls (tach on 4wd, and clock, I think?)  I have an air/fuel readout there, and a single switch.  The plan is to just run low beams (both filaments) with this single dedicated switch, and all new wire from battery to corner/outter/ lamps.  I never run high beams, and if I do, I usually forget to turn them down when a driver approaches, I'll leave the high beams as they are.  If you look into "H4 upgrade" for Jeep or FJ40 you will come up with OEM (Toyota), or aftermarket parts that address wiring / circuit upgrade in serous way, albeit different from the three-filaments of the 720 low/high configuration.  Those employ relays, to reduce the run of wire, and the relays can certainly be triggered from the stock 720 combination switch, but, you would need three relays, not two if you were to keep the Datsun configuration at the steering column.  Also, a fusible link or inline fuse at the battery positive is warranted; I'm no expert on that part of the equation.  The H4 pigtails on my FJ40 are the same as the 3wire-pigtail that Dorman sells at the auto store (who knows how well they are insulated from salt water road spray and what not, but, they are 16 gauge, and new, and inexpensive, so I'm using them. 

 

The total wattage per conventional halogen (outter) bulbs is about 110 watts, iiac.  And, I'm happy with the stock, or old-school, look of some on the off-the-shelf, low-end halogens.  I'm pretty convinced that the wiring itself is what most of these trucks need, and not a pair of aftermarket LEDs, which glare-up the micro scratches (from windshield wipers) and sand pits that are in most of the windshields of on-coming traffic.  Plus, my 720 windshield is horrible (compared to my other truck), making lighting even more challenging.  Then you have glare and halos caused by our aging eyes; more light doesn't address the actual cause of the problem and the reason for the need, but, it might make it worse.  One good aspect of the 720 lighting is that the stock lamps employ actual glass, resistant to oxidation and scratching, and you can actually replace that lens with new glass, even as other parts for the vehicle become kinda scarce.

[KELMO]

 " I've had chronic problems with the headlight switch.  But, mine is a '85, and I know that the couple of combination switches that I bought to replace it with haven't been correct in terms of housing - the collar around the steering column is the wrong diameter. "

 

We always had trouble getting that combo switch correct at the dealer. There were multiple choices and when you thought you had the right part #...you didn't. Back then we didn't have a VIN specific catalog and even after we did (in the mid 90's), some of them would still come in wrong.

[datzenmike]

Headlight switches only carry the current needed to activate a headlight relay... and it does the heavy lifting. Take the headlight switch assembly off the steering column, take it apart and generously flush with contact cleaner/lubricant.

 

Either...

Low beams... two 35 watt filaments, one each in the outer headlights.

or

Hi beams...... two 55 watt filaments in the outer lamps and two 55 watt filaments in the inner headlamps. That's 220watts the relay has to ground for them to light. That's 15 amps @ 14v charging.

 

 

The headlights are further broken down into two 10 amp fuses, one for left side and one for right. More than enough for the 15 amp draw.

[datzenmike]

 

[DIY 1985]

54 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

Headlight switches only carry the current needed to activate a headlight relay... and it does the heavy lifting. Take the headlight switch assembly off the steering column, take it apart and generously flush with contact cleaner/lubricant.

 

Either...

Low beams... two 35 watt filaments, one each in the outer headlights.

or

Hi beams...... two 55 watt filaments in the outer lamps and two 55 watt filaments in the inner headlamps. That's 220watts the relay has to ground for them to light. That's 15 amps @ 14v charging.

 

 

The headlights are further broken down into two 10 amp fuses, one for left side and one for right. More than enough for the 15 amp draw.

I see it now.  The part that confused me was that in the FSM it illustrates three relays above the fuse block, I only have two, but, I get it. 

 

Maybe my relay switch, or wiring, is tired?  I see minor arcing when I operate the combination switch to the headlight position?  Why would I need to clean the switch again if I have had to do it several times in the last five years?

 

Part of the wiring upgrade (for older trucks - CJ Jeep and FJ40) is to reduce the run of wire that carries current by placing the relays closer to the lamps and battery, to increase the gauge of wire used in the circuit, and to eliminate the headlight switch (on those trucks) itself from doing the heavy lifting.  Either way, I see it as an opportunity to replace old parts with new. 

 

I might be wrong, but, it really looks like Nissan is using 18-gauge at the lamp connectors?    A Sylvania H4656 XtraVision Halogen has a 40 watt (low beam) filament - I realize that this isn't the exact the part/answer to the OP's question.

 

3 hours ago, KELMO said:

 " I've had chronic problems with the headlight switch.  But, mine is a '85, and I know that the couple of combination switches that I bought to replace it with haven't been correct in terms of housing - the collar around the steering column is the wrong diameter. "

 

We always had trouble getting that combo switch correct at the dealer. There were multiple choices and when you thought you had the right part #...you didn't. Back then we didn't have a VIN specific catalog and even after we did (in the mid 90's), some of them would still come in wrong.

Some of the parts from the combination switch assemblies swap.  Could help, depending on the situation.  Mine is a bit of a frankenstein hybrid.

[datzenmike]

The headlamp switch is greased at the factory. Over time it dries out (and probably collects dust) and becomes hard. The contacts have a hard time touching through this. 

 

3 relays above the fuse box, from L to R, are Power Window, Heater and Headlamp. You probably don't have power windows.

[DIY 1985]

On 1/27/2022 at 4:58 PM, Veraciousreasoning said:

There is so many options is kind of don't know what to do. 

 

I don't have to worry about blinding people. We are moving to a really small town in Northern Idaho in a couple weeks and I think the town has something like 150 people. Its in the mountains so I want them brighter than all hell. 

Still looking into this for my own purposes, which are different than yours.  But, if you want greater (overall) brightness with high beams, you could probably hack the wiring on a conventional H4656 (outer/low-high) so that you only run the low-beam (55 watt), and not the (40 or 35 watt - depending on which Sylvania lamp, XTRAVision or Silver Star) high-beam.  The principle of this is when you run high beams, the outer bulbs are actually in the lower wattage mode.  Just add a fusible link/inline fuse, two relays, and trigger them with the driver side of the harness.  Plus, you will get better gauge, a shorter run, and new wiring, to make it all happen.

 

The video below explains it, with the guts of the lamp exposed.  In the comments, they almost figure it out on a Volvo 740.  I've seen it on my truck - the outer bulbs are not as bright when the switch is in the high beams position.  The author of the video was under the impression that high beams mean brighter beams.  However, it makes sense, to me, with the notation in the '85 owner's manual  (just for the non-halogen offered in '85 - high beams are 40 watts, low are 60w).  

 

 

 

 

 

Edited January 29, 2022 by DIY 1985

[Veraciousreasoning]

On 1/29/2022 at 10:38 AM, DIY 1985 said:

Still looking into this for my own purposes, which are different than yours.  But, if you want greater (overall) brightness with high beams, you could probably hack the wiring on a conventional H4656 (outer/low-high) so that you only run the low-beam (55 watt), and not the (40 or 35 watt - depending on which Sylvania lamp, XTRAVision or Silver Star) high-beam.  The principle of this is when you run high beams, the outer bulbs are actually in the lower wattage mode.  Just add a fusible link/inline fuse, two relays, and trigger them with the driver side of the harness.  Plus, you will get better gauge, a shorter run, and new wiring, to make it all happen.

 

The video below explains it, with the guts of the lamp exposed.  In the comments, they almost figure it out on a Volvo 740.  I've seen it on my truck - the outer bulbs are not as bright when the switch is in the high beams position.  The author of the video was under the impression that high beams mean brighter beams.  However, it makes sense, to me, with the notation in the '85 owner's manual  (just for the non-halogen offered in '85 - high beams are 40 watts, low are 60w).  

 

 

 

 

 

Yea, I might try that but I am also looking into making the headlights look different. I kind of like the modern LED look. I'll figure it out eventually or do what you showed.