‘74 E620D

[edhu6]

Introducing myself with my 1974 Datsun 620

 

was able to find one close to the one my dad used to drive as a parts car when he used do some amateur racing way back in the day. This truck was driven a couple times 2 years ago otherwise sat for about 7 years from PO. 

 

Starts, runs pretty well. Goal is to have it pretty stock with some modern day upgrades. Not looking to have it super low. 
 

Will do all the lubricants and fluid checks and services. 

motor oil change (Delo 400 or Rotella T4) ✔️

filter replacement (not Fram) ✔️

transmission service with GL4

Differential flush (GL5) and reseal? (Necessary?) ✔️

Brake fluid maybe hold off until after I do front disc upgrade ✔️

 

Timing chain check/adjustment

 

 

[datzenmike]

Looks like '77 fender on a '75 or older cab with '79 King Cab trim molding around the door. Amazingly rust free!!!!! More!

[edhu6]

23 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

Looks like '77 fender on a '75 or older cab with '79 King Cab trim molding around the door. Amazingly rust free!!!!! More!

Yes! And only 60k miles. 
 

right lower rocker panel must have hit a bump/rock. Has some surface rust there 

[datzenmike]

Also the only year with the L18 engine. Very nice. Interior pictures?

[edhu6]

Interior and Engine bay pics

 

[datzenmike]

Automatics are great survivors.

[]2eDeYe]

AC nice. 

 

Welcome, great looking truck. 

[edhu6]

45 minutes ago, ]2eDeYe said:

AC nice. 

 

Welcome, great looking truck. 

Thanks! 

That AC is definitely not working though. Not sure if it's worth salvaging or if I want AC to try and source something out of a late 90's maxima

[slowlearner]

Probably needs a new compressor.

[]2eDeYe]

If it is a york compressor, you can rebuild it. 

 

 

[datzenmike]

50 minutes ago, slowlearner said:

Probably needs a new compressor.

 

 

I would put belts on the pulleys first...

[mklotz70]

posting to follow. :)

 

[]2eDeYe]

That is a york compressor btw, they are an oiled crankcase style that doesn't rely on the refrigerant to keep the pump lubricated. 
Offroad guys use them for onboard air, they move a bunch of air.

 

There is a wire on there somewhere, if you apply 12v it will disengage the clutch and the pulley will turn the crank of the pump.

You can see if it will turn by hand before installing a belt. 
 

[edhu6]

On 10/22/2021 at 8:52 AM, ]2eDeYe said:

That is a york compressor btw, they are an oiled crankcase style that doesn't rely on the refrigerant to keep the pump lubricated. 
Offroad guys use them for onboard air, they move a bunch of air.

 

There is a wire on there somewhere, if you apply 12v it will disengage the clutch and the pulley will turn the crank of the pump.

You can see if it will turn by hand before installing a belt. 
 

Thank you for the info.

I will leave this to after I get some of the other mechanical issues sorted. 

[edhu6]

OK, so after being away for a bit I'm back and got some stuff looked at and sorted and found out

 

Oil changed and filter replaced
Air Filter Replaced

Differential changed

Transmission changed

Coolant changed and radiator cap replaced

Now I have a slow, small leak. Someone mentioned it could be motor oil coming from rear main seal?

 

[edhu6]

Also new issue as of two days ago when I went to go start the car, it made a sound like the car was already started (grinding noise) but you try and turn the key while the car is already ON/running. However the car was not. Next attempt, the sound was more faded but the car didn't sound like it wanted to turn over. Third attempt and barely a noise. 

Popped the hood, didn't see anything glaring. Left it open and started the truck again, no problem. But now the truck idles pretty high. 

Previously I've been able to start the truck first time, it turns over instantly and hums along. I have not done anything to the truck mechanically besides the fluids mentioned above. 

Could it be that I need to 

- Flush out the gas in the tank? 

- Inspect carburetor for debris? 

- starter/solenoid?

- ring/drive gear?

 

Can you insert a video in a post? 

 

 

*NOTE* I am not overly knowledgeable about mechanical servicing of motors but also not scared to follow direction when it comes to you pros out there. 
 

[datzenmike]

2 hours ago, edhu6 said:

 

Now I have a slow, small leak. Someone mentioned it could be motor oil coming from rear main seal?

 

 

First try to tighten all the oil pan bolts. Do not over tighten, just twist of the wrist tight. Or if you have a torque wrench 4 - 6.5 ft. lbs.

[iceman510]

15 hours ago, edhu6 said:

Also new issue as of two days ago when I went to go start the car, it made a sound like the car was already started (grinding noise) but you try and turn the key while the car is already ON/running. However the car was not. Next attempt, the sound was more faded but the car didn't sound like it wanted to turn over. Third attempt and barely a noise. 

Popped the hood, didn't see anything glaring. Left it open and started the truck again, no problem. But now the truck idles pretty high. 

Previously I've been able to start the truck first time, it turns over instantly and hums along. I have not done anything to the truck mechanically besides the fluids mentioned above. 

Could it be that I need to 

- Flush out the gas in the tank? 

- Inspect carburetor for debris? 

- starter/solenoid?

- ring/drive gear?

 

Can you insert a video in a post? 

 

 

*NOTE* I am not overly knowledgeable about mechanical servicing of motors but also not scared to follow direction when it comes to you pros out there. 
 

 

I would make sure your cables from battery to starter are clean and tight.  It sounds possibly like the starter is not getting full current/engagement.  If that doesn't do it, it may be the starter.

[edhu6]

On 12/2/2021 at 1:03 PM, edhu6 said:

Also new issue as of two days ago when I went to go start the car, it made a sound like the car was already started (grinding noise) but you try and turn the key while the car is already ON/running. However the car was not. Next attempt, the sound was more faded but the car didn't sound like it wanted to turn over. Third attempt and barely a noise. 

Popped the hood, didn't see anything glaring. Left it open and started the truck again, no problem. But now the truck idles pretty high. 

Previously I've been able to start the truck first time, it turns over instantly and hums along. I have not done anything to the truck mechanically besides the fluids mentioned above. 

Could it be that I need to 

- Flush out the gas in the tank? 

- Inspect carburetor for debris? 

- starter/solenoid?

- ring/drive gear?

 

Can you insert a video in a post? 

 

 

*NOTE* I am not overly knowledgeable about mechanical servicing of motors but also not scared to follow direction when it comes to you pros out there. 
 

So wanted to get this sorted first and just started from the battery

Clean terminals and clamps
Removed the battery tray and it was partially rotted out. I used some metal putty to form the shape back as best I could 

 

After reconnecting everything, the truck starts just fine but still has a high idle

[edhu6]

Anyone have a pic of what the battery cable to alternator looks like stock? 

Mine has two Tamiya battery connectors inline. Is that right? Mine is the cable above the green highlighted line

 

 

Also after removing the battery and tray, I noticed a cable that hangs relatively low under the front of the cab by the oil pan. Anyone help me out with what that is for? 

I'm finally getting floor jack and jack stands so I'll be able to get underneath the truck soon. 

[datzenmike]

That's the harness for the reverse lights and the interlock switch that only allows the starter to work in PARK and NEUTRAL positions  for the automatic transmission. Tie it up so it doesn't get ripped off and leave you wondering why you can't start the truck.

 

 

The wire with the two plastic ends is the fusible link that protects the power cable to the ignition switch and the fuse box. The 'Green' highlighted wire isn't stock. The output from the alternator simply goes into the engine harness and would normally be connected to the far side of that fusible link. As it is now, that wire is not protected by the fusible link.