First time doing ball joints. I have an idea...

[Diesel Dentures]

If you haven’t bought any of the new ball joints yet I suggest buying the entire suspension kit off of Amazon. It’s a 10 piece set( I think) that comes with upper and lower ball joints, inner and outer tie rods. All the cotter pins and grease fittings. I believe mine came with the steering rack. It’s only like $100-$116 I put that on mine and I couldn’t be happier. And in all it’s about what you would spend on the ball joints alone

[A guy named Rick]

1 hour ago, NC85ST said:

If I’m not mistaken, the plastic washer goes on the ball joint, under the dust boot. When you remove the lower ball joint, from the lower control arm, you will understand why only 2 washers. The tension rod is held by 2 of the bolts that run through the ball joint. If I remember right, the washers go on the bolts that don’t run through the tension rod. Just pay attention when you take it apart. It’s not all that hard.

yeah that's what i figured, that i would just figure it out as i go, just thought i would ask.

 

 

34 minutes ago, Diesel Dentures said:

If you haven’t bought any of the new ball joints yet I suggest buying the entire suspension kit off of Amazon. It’s a 10 piece set( I think) that comes with upper and lower ball joints, inner and outer tie rods. All the cotter pins and grease fittings. I believe mine came with the steering rack. It’s only like $100-$116 I put that on mine and I couldn’t be happier. And in all it’s about what you would spend on the ball joints alone

by MOOG?? i understand some are probably asking "why moog? they suck" well, depends what series. i didn't get the lower end moog stuff.

[A guy named Rick]

damn, i forgot to ask. what are the torque specs for everything? castle nuts, bolts that secure the ball joints, other bolts that need to be taken off...

i found the mounting bolts are Upper: 12-16, Lower 28 - 72 according to https://datsuntrucks.com/torque-specs/

Edited May 29, 2021 by A guy named Rick

[Diesel Dentures]

I don’t think any well known name brand makes the stuff but it does the job and it rides well. I also got the gas a just shocks you mentioned above. It is a bit of a stiff ride but it softens up after some riding and it will be great for hauling if need be

 

[A guy named Rick]

Hopefully there will not be much difference between front and back. But like you said, probably good for hauling. Front, I'm thinking a little softer for better handling? 

[A guy named Rick]

I'm passed my stuff didn't arrive today. Gives me some more time I guess. Hopefully someone will mention torque specs. I don't want to under or over tighten stuff. Also, blue threadlock or no?? On the ball joint stud or any other bolts.

[bottomwatcher]

Put a little grease on the tapered shaft of the balljoint to stop rust welding. Then once really snug at a point where you can install the cotter pin call it good. They ain't bearings. As far as brands anything Japan is better than anything else. As far as rock auto they do purchase a lot of NOS but it is hit or miss so just keep checking.

[Diesel Dentures]

It’s all up to you on preference of stiffness or softness of suspension. I just prefer the feeling of the ride to match all the way around for “even wear” if that makes any sense. It might not make much of a difference than peace of mind for me. 
 As for torque specs on the ball joints, I personally wasn’t too concerned as long as it was tight enough to be safe and to clear the cotter pin. Also you don’t want to split your shiny new boot. 

[A guy named Rick]

18 hours ago, Diesel Dentures said:

It’s all up to you on preference of stiffness or softness of suspension. I just prefer the feeling of the ride to match all the way around for “even wear” if that makes any sense. It might not make much of a difference than peace of mind for me. 
 As for torque specs on the ball joints, I personally wasn’t too concerned as long as it was tight enough to be safe and to clear the cotter pin. Also you don’t want to split your shiny new boot. 

 

Good point. Hey, good news, the rest of my stuff came in. Might work on it later, if it weren't over 100 degrees out.

 

I want to do my tie rods and steering link next. Looking at brands, there's delphi, trw, mevotech, acdelco. I'm starting to get cheap now, but I don't want to skimp on quality. I've bought an air filter from a acdelco for my corolla because they were reboxed Denso OEM Toyota for half the price the dealership would charge. So, looking to get something OEM reboxed would be cool. There's also Rare Parts just up the road in Stockton, but expensive too. 

[thisismatt]

2 hours ago, A guy named Rick said:

 

Good point. Hey, good news, the rest of my stuff came in. Might work on it later, if it weren't over 100 degrees out.

 

I want to do my tie rods and steering link next. Looking at brands, there's delphi, trw, mevotech, acdelco. I'm starting to get cheap now, but I don't want to skimp on quality. I've bought an air filter from a acdelco for my corolla because they were reboxed Denso OEM Toyota for half the price the dealership would charge. So, looking to get something OEM reboxed would be cool. There's also Rare Parts just up the road in Stockton, but expensive too. 

 

Take a look at the rocks to parts and try to find any reboxed "555" brand

[Charlie69]

All my trucks have been doone with Moog parts.  I had some Mevotech ball joints and 1 fit the ohter turned out to be the later style press in for the D21.

 

All the MOOG parts fit with no problems.  These parts will out live me.  LOL

[A guy named Rick]

cool. hopefully i can get it all together this weekend and get some new tires. then i need to work on checking valve lash again.

Ii've also not made much improvement on my off idle stumble. it's really pissing me off. I've followed the same advice given to myself and others on here about the accelerator pump. pretty sure i have no vacuum leak. timing is good. adjusted idle mixture. float level is good. even took carb off, took apart and cleaned out the accelerator pump passages including where the fuel squirts from (clogged with some hard crap in it). plunger is good. And yet i still have to feather the gas and get rpms up before taking off from a stop.

i think i'm going to see if raising the float level a little will work. Also, you know the venturis that come out in the middle of the carb barrels, that the fuel flow through? there's a little gasket there. hypothetically if that little gasket (which is not included in a rebuild kit) is messed up, will it affect the transition from idle to running circuit?