New 32/36 DGEV jetting

[Charlie69]

I am hoping to work on my 86 on Wednesday and get pictures of the vacuum line routing and also the jetting on this carb.

 

The jetting on my new Pierce Manifolds carb turned out that someone swapped my new carb for and old one that from the jetting was off a MGB.  I have a so called friend that has stolen a bunch of parts from me and I do not have that personin my house or garage any more.

[matrophy]

4 hours ago, Charlie69 said:

I am hoping to work on my 86 on Wednesday and get pictures of the vacuum line routing and also the jetting on this carb.

 

The jetting on my new Pierce Manifolds carb turned out that someone swapped my new carb for and old one that from the jetting was off a MGB.  I have a so called friend that has stolen a bunch of parts from me and I do not have that personin my house or garage any more.

With friends like that who needs an enema? I am reasonably certain that I have the carbon canister hooked up correctly but I'd like to see how yours is set up just to be sure. I completely disconnected all the lines and plugged them and I still have a lean condition according to the number of turns on the idle screw so I'm pretty sure that the canister is connected OK - or at least not creating the problem. Also, do you glue down the gasket between the carb and the air cleaner? I did at first and cleaning it all off was a pain. Not sure if a super tight seal is needed there

[Charlie69]

No on the glue on the gaskets, I install gaskets dry unless there is mating surface damage, in this case I use good quality silicone gasket maker with the gasket.

 

I have to leave now.

[matrophy]

8 hours ago, Charlie69 said:

No on the glue on the gaskets, I install gaskets dry unless there is mating surface damage, in this case I use good quality silicone gasket maker with the gasket.

 

I have to leave now.

The float was pretty mangled but I got it adjusted per the sheet you sent me. I called Redline Tech Support because I was having trouble with the 51 mm height when hanging down and the guy barely listened to what I was asking and said that the spec is 19 and 26 (?). I told him I had a sheet that said the spec was 35 and 51 and before I got the words out, he said "It's 19 and 26. That's what we set them at". The guy was an a##hole and I am not sure what the hell he was saying. Wish I would have bought the carb from Pierce. Live and learn. No change in the idle screw. It's still at 1-3/4 turns with the 75 idle jet.

[Charlie69]

Call Pierce Manifold Support.  Email them.  They are super busy but be patient.

 

https://www.piercemanifolds.com/Contact_Us_a/83.htm

 

I have a spare used float out of a 38 that looks exactly like the 32/36.

 

I will check Part #s to be sure thet are the same.

 

If you want it PM me you name and mailing address and I will send it to you.

Edited May 18, 2021 by Charlie69

[Charlie69]

The floats are the same for the 32/36 and the 38.

[Charlie69]

Here watch this one and it might help.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u5C-paKEh-Y

[matrophy]

I saw the video you sent earlier and it makes me nervous because when the cover is laid on it's back, the float depresses the valve - at least with my banged-up float. I ordered a new float yesterday. Thanks for the offer. I'm going to start over with a brand new one and see if it doesn't require a bunch of bending and twisting to get into spec. The jets in mine - with the exception of the primary idle jet - are identical to yours except for the one you call the ebay carb. Once I get everything back together, I will connect my AFR (actually lambda) gauge and go from there

[Charlie69]

I hope to tear my 86 720 Weber apart tomorrow afternoon and I will post the jetting on it.  I bought this in 2011 from Pierce Manifolds it is the Redline K646 kit for the Z24 engine.

[matrophy]

On 5/18/2021 at 8:48 PM, Charlie69 said:

I hope to tear my 86 720 Weber apart tomorrow afternoon and I will post the jetting on it.  I bought this in 2011 from Pierce Manifolds it is the Redline K646 kit for the Z24 engine.

Charlie, Apparently I had the incorrect instructions for setting idle mixture which said that 2 turns out was bad juju. 2-1/2 turns is allowable and anything over 3 is cause for a larger idle jet. I settled on a 70 idle jet and got a good smooth idle at a little less than 2 turns. I have an AFR (Lambda gauge, actually) that I connected and I get a good lean best idle and the idle and cruise readings hover around 1.0 (14.7) but I my acceleration from a stop is real sluggish. Additionally from what research I've done, the readings at other conditions are wacky. I am going to post my AFR readings in the hope that someone here can help me interpret them.

[Charlie69]

Are you stomping on the pedal at a stopped position or easing into it?

Edited May 27, 2021 by Charlie69

[matrophy]

Just now, Charlie69 said:

Are you stomping on the pedal at start or easing into it?

No - Normal acceleration with the pedal while shifting. It's not the normal drop-off that people with Webers complain about, It's sluggish but steady if that makes sense - throttle response between gears. My Hitachi was peppier

[Charlie69]

You should definitely feel an increase with the Weber.  I am struggling with my father and that is why I have not been able to get my Weber tore down.  Ihave to be there again tomorrow not sure how long but if I can get the carb tore down I will post the info here.

 

Did you put the new float installed?  Was the needle and seat damaged also?  Was the power valve damaged?

[matrophy]

3 minutes ago, Charlie69 said:

You should definitely feel an increase with the Weber.  I am struggling with my father and that is why I have not been able to get my Weber tore down.  Ihave to be there again tomorrow not sure how long but if I can get the carb tore down I will post the info here.

 

Did you put the new float installed?  Was the needle and seat damaged also?  Was the power valve damaged?

Your family is way more important than my minor carb problems. I appreciate the thought. I got the new float and I see that the floats themselves on the new one were symmetrical relative to the power valve where on the original one, one float was closest to the power valve than the other one. So it was not only crooked from top to bottom but also side-to-side. I got the new one adjusted within 1mm pretty easily although some kind of tool would have made it even easier. I don't believe that the needle and seat or the power valve were also damaged but this is the first I've thought of that.

[Charlie69]

The power valve is instrumental in acceleration.  First push lightly on the end of the power valve to see if it moves freely, no binding moving in or out.  if this feels good then pull the 3 screws and carefully remove it, the diaphragm/gasket will be stuck to the carb top, gently with a small flat screw driver separate the diaphragm/gasket working all the way around.  Inspect the power valve diaphragm for tares or pin holes and also that the gasket area is good.  Pull the needle and seat and check for any debris that might have gotten past the filter also look the needle over reel well for any damage to the coating on the end that helps the needle seal into the seat.

 

When you work the throttle does both sides of the accelerator pump jet spray gas?  if not check to make sure both nozzles are clear.  Next check the pump diaphragm, this will also be stuck like the power valve.  Be sure the spring is in there properly.

 

Have you talked with the people you purchased this carb from about the problems you are having?

 

[banzai510(hainz)]

accel pump is usually only one side that I have seen.

 

yes see if gas squirts when the linkage is cycled.

make sure the 2nd barrel is closed with the spring and doesnt open prematurely.

 

otherwise nothing really goes wrong with these carbs besides the accel pump diaprame leaky or the needle valve sticks, and maybe a valve float sinking cause it full of fuel.

and a dirty idle jet causing no idle from fuel filters not being changed evry 1 or 2 years. trucks being the worst dirt carriers

Edited May 27, 2021 by banzai510(hainz)

[matrophy]

2 hours ago, Charlie69 said:

The power valve is instrumental in acceleration.  First push lightly on the end of the power valve to see if it moves freely, no binding moving in or out.  if this feels good then pull the 3 screws and carefully remove it, the diaphragm/gasket will be stuck to the carb top, gently with a small flat screw driver separate the diaphragm/gasket working all the way around.  Inspect the power valve diaphragm for tares or pin holes and also that the gasket area is good.  Pull the needle and seat and check for any debris that might have gotten past the filter also look the needle over reel well for any damage to the coating on the end that helps the needle seal into the seat.

 

When you work the throttle does both sides of the accelerator pump jet spray gas?  if not check to make sure both nozzles are clear.  Next check the pump diaphragm, this will also be stuck like the power valve.  Be sure the spring is in there properly.

 

Have you talked with the people you purchased this carb from about the problems you are having?

 

For starters, the Redline tech support guys who answer the phone are a$$holes generally. I've called them a couple of times but the conversation was usually short with seeming disinterest in continuing on their part. I thought about your original comment and maybe I am stomping on the throttle too hard between gears. I'm going to take a ride and try a different approach and see if more gently feathering it at first helps. Then I guess I'll take apart the carb again and take a look.

[Charlie69]

Problem is it is a new carb and he should not be having these problems.  The seller should replace this carb with no questions asked.  I tried Carbs Unlimited and found they have no customer service after pocketing your money.  This is why I continue to purchase from Pierce Manifolds.

 

Customer support

Redline NO

Carbs Unlimited No

Pierce Manifolds Yes

Edited May 27, 2021 by Charlie69

[matrophy]

3 hours ago, Charlie69 said:

Problem is it is a new carb and he should not be having these problems.  The seller should replace this carb with no questions asked.  I tried Carbs Unlimited and found they have no customer service after pocketing your money.  This is why I continue to purchase from Pierce Manifolds.

 

Customer support

Redline NO

Carbs Unlimited No

Pierce Manifolds Yes

Driving while feathering the throttle didn't provide a noticeable improvement in the accelerating throttle response. I just had a sickening thought. I was reading the Weber book that I have and it says that if the throttle valves aren't in correctly, it would cause a lean condition upon acceleration which is what I have. Apparently the progression circuit holes aren't being allowed to open when they are supposed to. Like a dummy, I listened to a buddy's advice and swapped in the shaft bearing kit on the primary shaft when I first got the carb. I had trouble getting the valves back in correctly but I believed at the time I got them in OK. Basically, there was no light showing when the valves were closed so I figured everything was good. I need to pull the carb off anyway to check out the power valve, etc as you suggested. Do you know what the relationship between the throttle valve and the progression holes is supposed to be? I believe that the throttle plate is supposed to close off the hole, right?. 

Edited May 28, 2021 by matrophy

[Charlie69]

This might help I would download it for future use.

 

http://www.theguestroom.net/manuals/32-36.pdf

 

[matrophy]

17 minutes ago, Charlie69 said:

This might help I would download it for future use.

 

http://www.theguestroom.net/manuals/32-36.pdf

 

Oh that is awesome. Thanks

[matrophy]

20 hours ago, matrophy said:

Oh that is awesome. Thanks

Charlie - I haven't been able to find the definitive answer for how to adjust the throttle valves. I got it so there was only the tiniest sliver of light top and bottom by holding the carb up to the bright sun. Is it it supposed to be a completely light-free seal? That seems impossible

[Charlie69]

It has been years since i have set this.  I will research it and try to find the correct answer for you. There was an online explanation with pictures I ran across a few years ago but I am not sure where I saved it.  I will keep searching to get a diffinitive answer for you. 

 

You might try contacting Pierce manifolds Tech support.

 

https://www.piercemanifolds.com/Contact_Us_a/83.htm

[matrophy]

49 minutes ago, Charlie69 said:

It has been years since i have set this.  I will research it and try to find the correct answer for you. There was an online explanation with pictures I ran across a few years ago but I am not sure where I saved it.  I will keep searching to get a diffinitive answer for you. 

 

You might try contacting Pierce manifolds Tech support.

 

https://www.piercemanifolds.com/Contact_Us_a/83.htm

Thanks. It’s the only thing I’m finding that might be wrong and it’s such a tiny gap that I am not sure it’s important but I couldn’t find anything about it. I wrote a long synopsis of everything I checked a few minutes ago but I wasn’t logged in so I don’t know if it will ever show up here

[matrophy]

Just now, matrophy said:

Thanks. It’s the only thing I’m finding that might be wrong and it’s such a tiny gap that I am not sure it’s important but I couldn’t find anything about it. I wrote a long synopsis of everything I checked a few minutes ago but I wasn’t logged in so I don’t know if it will ever show up here

I’m not sure if I have the valves oriented right. I have them with the stamping reading opposite directions