Who's pulled an L series from a 620?

[Guest DatsuNoob]

I hooked into the motor today and started pulling it. I got all the plumbing and wiring undone, motor mounts, clutch slave, shifter, tranny mount, exhaust, etc. I tried sliding it forward outta the front drive line, but got hung up when the oil pan hit my steering link. I'm trying to take the complete motor and trans out together. Is there a way to do this without removing that steering link? Does the driveline have to be disconnected, or will it slide out of the trans in the front without a problem? Guess it doesn't help doing all this shit alone either.

[sanitys]

I hooked into the motor today and started pulling it. I got all the plumbing and wiring undone, motor mounts, clutch slave, shifter, tranny mount, exhaust, etc. I tried sliding it forward outta the front drive line, but got hung up when the oil pan hit my steering link. I'm trying to take the complete motor and trans out together. Is there a way to do this without removing that steering link? Does the driveline have to be disconnected, or will it slide out of the trans in the front without a problem? Guess it doesn't help doing all this shit alone either.

 

havnt done mine yet, just to stop a mess you drained the trans right? (youd be surprised on many times ive seen someone get trans fluid all over because they didnt drain the trans) I plan to pull mine out in one piece as well so ill keep an eye on the thread.

[Cuts metal like mad]

dude... you shoulda called me... you know I'd help. Oh and btw, that thing went good... so I can still help you with the wiring!

[Pacific coast Datsun]

Did mine the same way [motor & trans. together] & my cherry picker had an adjustable angle part which made it easier to slide it up & out. Where the cain is hooked on the block may make it easier or harder depending.

[Guest DatsuNoob]

dude... you shoulda called me... you know I'd help. Oh and btw, that thing went good... so I can still help you with the wiring!

 

Completely slipped my mind. I'll probably call you tomorrow afternoon after I wake up. Depending how work goes tonight. Glad to hear your deal worked out.I had hoped it did.The way I got it setup is, the chain is hooked to the loop on the front of the motor. I'm lifting it until right before it lifts the truck, then drop it down a hair and "walk" it side to side a little to get it outta the first driveline(no bolts, similar to a slip yoke). That damn steering link is in the way for sure though.I'm thinking I'm gonna drop the idler arm and see if that gives me any play for a little clearance.

[motavated]

I once forgot to take off the shifter. I took off the suspension and that metal bar that is holded by four bolts.

[datsunaholic]

I've never had much trouble pulling 'em out, except the 2 trucks that had serious damage where the cab got crushed down a bit. Getting it in, another story. I have NEVER removed the steering crosslink. Originally I tied a rope to the front (in addition to the chain) to get the "tilt" since you need to get the engine OVER 45 degrees to get it out with the trans attached.

 

However, what I use now is a tiliting device. Harbor freight sells them, not the greatest but they work.

 

 

That's a 521, but they're just as bad other than the shorter transmission. You can see the tilting device (it's orange) and how much angle it has.

 

One thing is for certain- you need to COMPLETELY remove the transmission crossmember. Just unbolting the mount isn't enough, the trans needs to drop down so you can get the angle started.

 

Another trick is turn the steering a bit. When you turn the wheels the rod moves forward a little bit. Not a lot, but it's close to an inch and you need it with some pans.

[datsunfish]

Removing the steering shaft really isnt that bad. Better than fighting things spending 5 times longer trying to avoid it. Just take it off the tranny. That only takes 10 minutes and the tranny is light.

[SHADY280]

gotta get that driveshaft out, makes it one less thing to fight against.

[Bleach]

To tilt the engine enough to clear that link, you're going to need a lot of ground clearance and ceiling clearance. I always removed the link.

 

The driveshaft just slips out from the transmission as you pull, but if you're trying to tilt the engine first to clear the steering link then you have to pull the driveshaft first.

 

If you have not drained the tranny fluid, it will come out when the driveshaft is removed :D

[RandyinRenton]

they do make plugs for the tranny so you don't have to drain it...

[Guest DatsuNoob]

Got back in the garage today. Been pretty tired last few days so I took my sweet time taking out the X-member and the castellated nuts on the steering link. My only issue is getting the bolts of it out. I flipped the nut so not to damage the castellated part, and gave it some whacks with a big hammer and a piece of hard wood. Wouldn't budge. I'm thought about the air hammer, but I don't wanna damage any threads (more work). I was trying to get around taking out 4 bolts, seeing if I could do it the easy way and take out 2 instead. I'll probably just lube the shit outta those bolts and take it real slow with that air hammer. I'll let you guys know how that works out.

[datsunfish]

Got back in the garage today. Been pretty tired last few days so I took my sweet time taking out the X-member and the castellated nuts on the steering link. My only issue is getting the bolts of it out. I flipped the nut so not to damage the castellated part, and gave it some whacks with a big hammer and a piece of hard wood. Wouldn't budge. I'm thought about the air hammer, but I don't wanna damage any threads (more work). I was trying to get around taking out 4 bolts, seeing if I could do it the easy way and take out 2 instead. I'll probably just lube the shit outta those bolts and take it real slow with that air hammer. I'll let you guys know how that works out.

 

Dude,you ever heard of a "pickle fork" or ball joint seperater? Thats what you need to use to get the steering arm to dislodge from the ball joint bolts.

[Cuts metal like mad]

You don't have to seperate it! Just unbolt the idler arm from the frame and let it hang down... It'll give you plenty of clearance.

[Guest DatsuNoob]

Yeah, my pickle fork is pretty fucked. Looks like someone tried to eat it. That's why I don't like to lend out tools. I'll just drop the idler instead of trying to cut a corner and be done with it.

[]2eDeYe]

You don't need a pickle fork. Get out your BFH and hit the steering arm real hard right next to the tie rod end. It will deform the steel arm a bit and the tie rod end will pop right out. Might take a couple good whacks, but it'll pop loose.

 

Pickle fork will just cost you new rubber boots.

[Bleach]

I always hit the tie rod end itself (base part) with a BFH. Later, my dad reminded me to protect the threads by leaving the nut on part way... DOH!

 

some times it would take a long time before it came loose... I would start to think it was never going to come off... then I got mad and hit it harder! works every time.

[Guest DatsuNoob]

I wownd up tooking dis eyedler arm theeng awf. It wuz grate! Now I can haz cheezburger. :blink: I hit it with a hammer, got out my air hammer, got out my busted azz pickle fork, nothing worked. I went to the other side opposite the idler off the steering coulmn. Pitman arm? Having a brain fart. Stripped one of the nuts, so then I got out my sawzall (best tool ever!). I cut the bolt flush with the frame using tons of PB Blaster (2nd best tool ever), and dropped the pass side arm off the frame. It worked out perfect. Much, much easier. Anyway, motor is out! WOOT! (I've never said woot before). I spilled maybe 4 drops of tranny oil, during the whole thing. I just positioned a drip pan on a large piece of cardboard under where the end of the tranny was, and when it came out it went nicely into the pan. Maybe only a quart or less. I hope this thread is of a little use to someone who's never pulled an L from a 620. I'll post some pics in my "recent progress" thread tomorrow.

Edited November 21, 2008 by DatsuNoob