mrbigtanker Posted August 13, 2020 Report Share Posted August 13, 2020 3 hours ago, 4perrev said: Tanker, I’m going to remove all the blue as I go. This is chassis saver, the black that is. Base coat as it is a rust inhibitor and will protect it forever. Top coat over this. not worried about the crack as this will hold it and not have any issues. Right on no hate just man I would of told them lets just get it now. But it will work and keep up the good work. 😘 Quote Link to comment
4perrev Posted August 15, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2020 It's all good. I love the feedback from all you guys here and it helps to learn new stuff all the time. I did think about having it welded up, but this guys does a lot of work on marine engines and has never had an issue with the inserts going bad. The insert actually pulls the metal together when tightened down, aiding in the strength. Got side tracked on a buzzard sculpture for my wife on my last day off, so I will get back to the goon in a couple days (Tuesday). Still have to tackle the entire wiring job, which will be like playing with spaghetti for a bit. It is all kinds of ugly in there! Will be great practice for when I do the 2-door afterwards!! 1 Quote Link to comment
4perrev Posted August 21, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2020 Got some serious work done today. Made the two side plates for the steering support. Started thick and new bolts to boot: Here it is in place: After that, got to installing the new camber plates: Then I hung the strut with T3 coilers on her: Here's the front fully complete, minus the steering linkage cause I'm changing out all the ball joint: After hanging all that, I disasembled the front hubs, cleaned the crap out of them from all the old grease. Packed em all up right and mounted! Steering and brakes are next!! 7 Quote Link to comment
4perrev Posted August 28, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2020 Had to pull the old L-16 out of a junk 4 door for the rods. Decided, the tractor was easier than pulling out the cherry picker: So, here is the L-18 standard rod and piston (Left) along side the .20 over bored L-18 piston on an L-16 rod: Pretty damn close. I measured them and I think it was within .10-.25 of an inch. Either way, when loaded into the block, it still has a touch below the deck height and I shall make up for that with a closed chambered head!! Here's those little beauties in their sleeping bags: Had to gap the rings, but not too much. Very minor amount and didn't break any of them!! Test fit the L-18 standard head gasket and she fits perfectly up to the edges without any overhang on the fire ring. She's coming along swimmingly and will have to complete the head or steering linkage next weekend!! 4 Quote Link to comment
4perrev Posted September 13, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2020 Finally got the little Goon down on all her own paws today. Well, just for a minute as I had to rearrange the shop: Steering is all done now with new ball joints everywhere: Also finally received the brake line swedge thing a ma boo. Certainly makes for an easy creation and install of the stainless brake lines: Just did the clutch master down to the slave. That's in the mail: She's coming along and will be finishing the engine next. Gotta do some work on the head. Secret squirrel....Not really!! 6 Quote Link to comment
iceman510 Posted September 18, 2020 Report Share Posted September 18, 2020 On 9/12/2020 at 9:09 PM, 4perrev said: Also finally received the brake line swedge thing a ma boo. Certainly makes for an easy creation and install of the stainless brake lines: Great tool! I bought one earlier this year to redo a Honda. I used the copper lines. You mention it works fine with the stainless tubing. No issues at all? I hear the stainless is more difficult to work with due to its material hardness. I was not considering stainless for my 510, but may reconsider. Thanks. Quote Link to comment
4perrev Posted September 18, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2020 Oh yeah, worked perfectly with no issues. Like butter!! Quote Link to comment
4perrev Posted November 26, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2020 Well, with blue went my new clutch master, so another order to place. About to bend all the new brake lines and complete the calipers as they are ugly. Little blast and paint to bring em back to new again. will pack them with new pads and she will get new 280ZX rotors to boot! If I only had no job.....I would be much further with this girl! 1 Quote Link to comment
4perrev Posted March 30, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2021 The weather is finally warming up around here, so I can get to chompin the Goon again. Clutch and brake masters are in and the front brake lines are bent. Gotta finish the rears, then it's on to putting the engine back together. Man, I need a Sugar Momma so I don't have to work, except on the Datsuns!! 1 Quote Link to comment
mrbigtanker Posted March 31, 2021 Report Share Posted March 31, 2021 She is coming out badass. I need to step my game up.Keep it up loving it. Quote Link to comment
4perrev Posted May 1, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2021 Ok, had some time this week to finish up the brakes. All shinny and new with repainted calipers. Brake lines all bent into shape. I know, one is kind of out of place, but it’s all done for now. 3 Quote Link to comment
4perrev Posted May 1, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2021 Now I have to look into that pesky waring harness. Have to figure out all the connectors and order them from vintage connectors. Then I can get down and build the wiring harness x2. One for the Goon and one for the two door, as she will be coming up next. Should be fun, for sure!! Quote Link to comment
mrbigtanker Posted May 2, 2021 Report Share Posted May 2, 2021 Wow booboo looking good very clean and sano. Keep it up. 1 Quote Link to comment
4perrev Posted May 8, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2021 The UPS guy hit my door on Wednesday with some goodies. Love it when he shows up. Ordered a Koyorad, a pair of Mishimoto fans and a fan regulator control module. That will solve my cooling needs and I can adjust the fan control by temperature to any level I need. Now, just have to build a radiator shroud to maximize the air flow. That shouldn't be too difficult. Was going to hook it up on Friday, but got busy and it was raining. So, gotta wait till Tuesday to get back in there. Should be fun fabricating all the bends and metal for that!! After that's done, I'm headed straight to putting the engine back together. Have all the parts, just need some assembly. I get oics up here soon. 1 Quote Link to comment
mrbigtanker Posted May 9, 2021 Report Share Posted May 9, 2021 13 hours ago, 4perrev said: The UPS guy hit my door on Wednesday with some goodies. Love it when he shows up. Ordered a Koyorad, a pair of Mishimoto fans and a fan regulator control module. That will solve my cooling needs and I can adjust the fan control by temperature to any level I need. Now, just have to build a radiator shroud to maximize the air flow. That shouldn't be too difficult. Was going to hook it up on Friday, but got busy and it was raining. So, gotta wait till Tuesday to get back in there. Should be fun fabricating all the bends and metal for that!! After that's done, I'm headed straight to putting the engine back together. Have all the parts, just need some assembly. I get oics up here soon. Are you running pushers ? I have on my wagon and they seem to work fine. I also have Spal fans and a Koyorad radiator as well. Quote Link to comment
4perrev Posted May 9, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2021 I have the Mishimoto 8" pair of fans. Not sure if they are pushers, but if they are, I am going to reverse the polarity and make them pullers, cause I'm building a fan shroud. Here is the beginning of the template: Fans on template: Fans on radiator and template: Got it all laid out, with all the centers and overhangs to mount on the tangs. Going to cut out the fan circles and start the shroud sides and bends up to meet the fan backings. Going to be a little work, but should be fun. Making this out of sheet metal as I thing fiberglass would take a crap after awhile. All the measurements are on the template for anybody, maybe wanting to do the same. Will post all the final measurements and bends as well, when completed. I bought all the goodies at Evasive Motosports, www.evasivemotorsports.com. These guys shipped me the goods in record time with free shipping. Great place so far. 3 Quote Link to comment
mrbigtanker Posted May 10, 2021 Report Share Posted May 10, 2021 Evassive Motorsport is not far from my house. I bought my wagon Work wheels from them and one of the Bride seats in my coupe. Those fans are going to clear your water pump pulley correct. 1 Quote Link to comment
4perrev Posted May 10, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2021 I haven't fit all that together yet as the engine is still waiting to be assembled. I need to get all that back in or mock it up to check for the fit. That, I shall do first. Thanks for looking out! As soon as I get the engine set I'll drop an oic in here to show the clearance. I'm not a fan (no pun intended here) of pusher fans because they take all the abuse from the road. This is why I wanted to stay behind the Rad. Going to run a single pulley to aid in opening the gap a bit, but will have to see where it all lands. 1 Quote Link to comment
mrbigtanker Posted May 10, 2021 Report Share Posted May 10, 2021 10 hours ago, 4perrev said: I haven't fit all that together yet as the engine is still waiting to be assembled. I need to get all that back in or mock it up to check for the fit. That, I shall do first. Thanks for looking out! As soon as I get the engine set I'll drop an oic in here to show the clearance. I'm not a fan (no pun intended here) of pusher fans because they take all the abuse from the road. This is why I wanted to stay behind the Rad. Going to run a single pulley to aid in opening the gap a bit, but will have to see where it all lands. Yes neither am I but if you are running the Koyorad you will not have clearance with a L series, water pump pulley sticks out to far. But please prove me wrong. Unless you run a wider style radiator then it will work, but then you will have to cut front piece out or suck what ever air you can. 1 Quote Link to comment
4perrev Posted May 11, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2021 Yeah, it will get interesting, but I have to complete the engine first, or temp mount the front assembly and do a test fit. There is always a way, for sure. It's Friday for me, so I will get back into her tomorrow and give an update. 1 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted May 11, 2021 Report Share Posted May 11, 2021 Just FYI, most fans need two steps to change from push to pull or vice versa. You typically have to reverse motor polarity AND flip the fan blades to get proper air movement. So basically what I'm getting at, is if flipping proves necessary, double check with the manufacturer for that topic to ensure maximum performance. 2 Quote Link to comment
4perrev Posted May 16, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2021 Did the test fit for the rad and engine. Yeah, they will not fit the fans in there. There was a playing cards worth of space going on, so I will have to use them as pushers. I will look into the reversing, if necessary Lockleaf. Pretty sure they came as pusher to begin with, but will check em out with a battery. 1 Quote Link to comment
4perrev Posted March 4 Author Report Share Posted March 4 Wow, just looked at how long it's been since I posted. The days move swiftly through time and the build continues. Quick update, the long rod L18 is complete with ARP connecting rod bolts, ARP head bolts, A87 peanut head, and 200 SX pistons. Ordered all the goods to change transmission seals, new clutch, and complete exhaust pipe setup. Will need to route and cut to fit. Should go pretty quick once the weather turns warmer here soon. Lastly debating on redoing the electrical because those wires are old! Will get pictures up as things come together. 2 Quote Link to comment
iceman510 Posted March 5 Report Share Posted March 5 20 hours ago, 4perrev said: Quick update, the long rod L18 is complete with ARP connecting rod bolts, ARP head bolts, A87 peanut head, and 200 SX pistons. Just a question for clarification. in your earlier post August 27, 2020 you called the piston an L18 0.020 overbore, now you mention 200SX pistons. Since the L16 rod is about 3mm longer than the L18, wondering what is different or unique about the piston to keep the overall assembly length ok. I assume you are using an L18 crank? Quote Link to comment
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