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My Little Goon...


4perrev

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3 hours ago, 4perrev said:

Tanker,

 

      I’m going to remove all the blue as I go. This is chassis saver, the black that is. Base coat as it is a rust inhibitor and will protect it forever. Top coat over this.

 

not worried about the crack as this will hold it and not have any issues.

Right on no hate just man I would of told them lets just get it now. But it will work and keep up the good work. 😘

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It's all good.  I love the feedback from all you guys here and it helps to learn new stuff all the time.  I did think about having it welded up, but this guys does a lot of work on marine engines and has never had an issue with the inserts going bad.  The insert actually pulls the metal together when tightened down, aiding in the strength.

 

Got side tracked on a buzzard sculpture for my wife on my last day off, so I will get back to the goon in a couple days (Tuesday).  Still have to tackle the entire wiring job, which will be like playing with spaghetti for a bit.  It is all kinds of ugly in there!  Will be great practice for when I do the 2-door afterwards!! 

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Got some serious work done today.  Made the two side plates for the steering support.  Started thick and new bolts to boot:

 

f0JKgJd.jpg

 

Here it is in place:

 

NQWzY7a.jpg

 

After that, got to installing the new camber plates:

 

57mIlFA.jpg

 

Then I hung the strut with T3 coilers on her:

 

rR7pdRR.jpg

 

Here's the front fully complete, minus the steering linkage cause I'm changing out all the ball joint:

 

6azagYB.jpg

 

After hanging all that, I disasembled the front hubs, cleaned the crap out of them from all the old grease.  Packed em all up right and mounted!  Steering and brakes are next!! 

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Had to pull the old L-16 out of a junk 4 door for the rods.  Decided, the tractor was easier than pulling out the cherry picker:

 

Mf8DVsH.jpg

 

So, here is the L-18 standard rod and piston (Left) along side the .20 over bored L-18 piston on an L-16 rod:

 

KtVUbYY.jpg

 

Pretty damn close.  I measured them and I think it was within .10-.25 of an inch.  Either way, when loaded into the block, it still has a touch below the deck height and I shall make up for that with a closed chambered head!!  Here's those little beauties in their sleeping bags:

 

JInoBee.jpg

 

Had to gap the rings, but not too much.  Very minor amount and didn't break any of them!!  Test fit the L-18 standard head gasket and she fits perfectly up to the edges without any overhang on the fire ring.

 

zDu2G0b.jpg

 

She's coming along swimmingly and will have to complete the head or steering linkage next weekend!!

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  • 3 weeks later...

Finally got the little Goon down on all her own paws today.  Well, just for a minute as I had to rearrange the shop:

 

xTJdfPH.jpg

 

Steering is all done now with new ball joints everywhere:

 

q35NOrZ.jpg?1

 

Also finally received the brake line swedge thing a ma boo.  Certainly makes for an easy creation and install of the stainless brake lines:

 

mGiDC3s.jpg?1

 

Just did the clutch master down to the slave.  That's in the mail:

 

hFUohPv.jpg

 

She's coming along and will be finishing the engine next.  Gotta do some work on the head.  Secret squirrel....Not really!!

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On 9/12/2020 at 9:09 PM, 4perrev said:

Also finally received the brake line swedge thing a ma boo.  Certainly makes for an easy creation and install of the stainless brake lines:

 

mGiDC3s.jpg?1

 

 

 

 

Great tool!  I bought one earlier this year to redo a Honda.  I used the copper lines.

 

You mention it works fine with the stainless tubing.  No issues at all?  I hear the stainless is more difficult to work with due to its material hardness.  I was not considering stainless for my 510, but may reconsider.

 

Thanks.

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  • 2 months later...

Well,

 with blue went my new clutch master, so another order to place.  About to bend all the new brake lines and complete the calipers as they are ugly.  Little blast and paint to bring em back to new again.  will pack them with new pads and she will get new 280ZX rotors to boot!  If I only had no job.....I would be much further with this girl!

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  • 4 months later...

The weather is finally warming up around here, so I can get to chompin the Goon again.  Clutch and brake masters are in and the front brake lines are bent.  Gotta finish the rears, then it's on to putting the engine back together.  Man, I need a Sugar Momma so I don't have to work, except on the Datsuns!!

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  • 1 month later...

Ok, had some time this week to finish up the brakes. All shinny and new with repainted calipers.  Brake lines all bent into shape.  I know, one is kind of out of place, but it’s all done for now.

 

DFEF9FD1-0215-4B8E-A14E-5980D2F3D9AD.jpeg

5B503C91-D467-4CEE-8566-32F8CF83A832.jpeg

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Now I have to look into that pesky waring harness.  Have to figure out all the connectors and order them from vintage connectors.  Then I can get down and build the wiring harness x2.  One for the Goon and one for the two door, as she will be coming up next.  Should be fun, for sure!!

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The UPS guy hit my door on Wednesday with some goodies.  Love it when he shows up.  Ordered a Koyorad, a pair of Mishimoto fans and a fan regulator control module.  That will solve my cooling needs and I can adjust the fan control by temperature to any level I need.  Now, just have to build a radiator shroud to maximize the air flow.  That shouldn't be too difficult.  Was going to hook it up on Friday, but got busy and it was raining.  So, gotta wait till Tuesday to get back in there.  Should be fun fabricating all the bends and metal for that!!

 

After that's done, I'm headed straight to putting the engine back together.  Have all the parts, just need some assembly.  I get oics up here soon.

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13 hours ago, 4perrev said:

The UPS guy hit my door on Wednesday with some goodies.  Love it when he shows up.  Ordered a Koyorad, a pair of Mishimoto fans and a fan regulator control module.  That will solve my cooling needs and I can adjust the fan control by temperature to any level I need.  Now, just have to build a radiator shroud to maximize the air flow.  That shouldn't be too difficult.  Was going to hook it up on Friday, but got busy and it was raining.  So, gotta wait till Tuesday to get back in there.  Should be fun fabricating all the bends and metal for that!!

 

After that's done, I'm headed straight to putting the engine back together.  Have all the parts, just need some assembly.  I get oics up here soon.

Are you running pushers ? I have on my wagon and they seem to work fine. I also have Spal fans and a Koyorad radiator as well.

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I have the Mishimoto 8" pair of fans.  Not sure if they are pushers, but if they are, I am going to reverse the polarity and make them pullers, cause I'm building a fan shroud.  Here is the beginning of the template:

 

WdVNp6r.jpg

 

Fans on template:

 

i0hvJB3.jpg

 

Fans on radiator and template:

 

R3BmlGk.jpg

 

Got it all laid out, with all the centers and overhangs to mount on the tangs.  Going to cut out the fan circles and start the shroud sides and bends up to meet the fan backings.  Going to be a little work, but should be fun.  Making this out of sheet metal as I thing fiberglass would take a crap after awhile.  All the measurements are on the template for anybody, maybe wanting to do the same.  Will post all the final measurements and bends as well, when completed.

 

I bought all the goodies at Evasive Motosports, www.evasivemotorsports.com.  These guys shipped me the goods in record time with free shipping.  Great place so far.

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I haven't fit all that together yet as the engine is still waiting to be assembled.  I need to get all that back in or mock it up to check for the fit.  That, I shall do first.  Thanks for looking out!  As soon as I get the engine set I'll drop an oic in here to show the clearance.  I'm not a fan (no pun intended here) of pusher fans because they take all the abuse from the road.  This is why I wanted to stay behind the Rad.  Going to run a single pulley to aid in opening the gap a bit, but will have to see where it all lands. 

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10 hours ago, 4perrev said:

I haven't fit all that together yet as the engine is still waiting to be assembled.  I need to get all that back in or mock it up to check for the fit.  That, I shall do first.  Thanks for looking out!  As soon as I get the engine set I'll drop an oic in here to show the clearance.  I'm not a fan (no pun intended here) of pusher fans because they take all the abuse from the road.  This is why I wanted to stay behind the Rad.  Going to run a single pulley to aid in opening the gap a bit, but will have to see where it all lands. 

Yes neither am I but if you are running the Koyorad you will not have clearance with a L series, water pump pulley sticks out to far. But please prove me wrong. Unless you run a wider style radiator then it will work, but then you will have to cut front piece out or suck what ever air you can. 

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Yeah, it will get interesting, but I have to complete the engine first, or temp mount the front assembly and do a test fit.  There is always a way, for sure.  It's Friday for me, so I will get back into her tomorrow and give an update.

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Just FYI, most fans need two steps to change from push to pull or vice versa.  You typically have to reverse motor polarity AND flip the fan blades to get proper air movement. So basically what I'm getting at, is if flipping proves necessary, double check with the manufacturer for that topic to ensure maximum performance.

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Did the test fit for the rad and engine.  Yeah, they will not fit the fans in there.  There was a playing cards worth of space going on, so I will have to use them as pushers.  I will look into the reversing, if necessary Lockleaf.  Pretty sure they came as pusher to begin with, but will check em out with a battery.

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  • 2 years later...

Wow, just looked at how long it's been since I posted. The days move swiftly through time and the build continues. Quick update, the long rod L18 is complete with ARP connecting rod bolts, ARP head bolts, A87 peanut head, and 200 SX pistons.  Ordered all the goods to change transmission seals, new clutch, and complete exhaust pipe setup. Will need to route and cut to fit. Should go pretty quick once the weather turns warmer here soon. Lastly debating on redoing the electrical because those wires are old! Will get pictures up as things come together.

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20 hours ago, 4perrev said:

Quick update, the long rod L18 is complete with ARP connecting rod bolts, ARP head bolts, A87 peanut head, and 200 SX pistons.  

 

Just a question for clarification.  in your earlier post August 27, 2020 you called the piston an L18 0.020 overbore, now you mention 200SX pistons.  Since the L16 rod is about 3mm longer than the L18, wondering what is different or unique about the piston to keep the overall assembly length ok.  I assume you are using an L18 crank?

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