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Street Edge spindle help


ThatRandomeGuy

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Hey guys, I've had this account for a while now just been doing some reading but this is my first post. I was aware that I would need bigger rims for these spindles to clear after doing some research on here and me (being the naive 18 yr old I am) went ahead and spent all my money on spindles :'). Anyways I was wondering if there was any quick fix I could run for while til I get the money to pick up some bigger rims. Right now I'm running stock 14" hardbody rims and I'm trying to get this ol girl sitting right before the Southeastern MiniTruckin show coming up I'm a couple weeks (April 26 27 &28). Any tips would be greatly appreciated, thanks to everyone in advance!

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Correct, I got the 2 inch drop spindles and from what I've read I need to have at least some 15" or bigger rims for the lower control arms to clear and not rub the inside of the rims. Haven't even tried to install them cuz the 720 is my daily and don't want to tear the front end apart only to have to wait til I'm able to get the right size rims to fit

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This is what a member on here did to be able to use 14 inch rims with drop spindles

 

Stock lower control arm

720_Lower_Control_Arm.jpg

Modified lower control arm.

720_Lower_Control_Arm_Carved.jpg

 

OK, I am not saying this approach is good or bad, but I do not believe this approach weakens the lower control arm, I have yet to do this myself as I just made drop arms for my truck, it took be 5 hours to make them both. 

001.jpg

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26 minutes ago, ThatRandomeGuy said:

The kit came with thick washers to space out the hub but I wasn't sure if that would do the trick or not

Them washers are to be used when you have the earlier 83/84/85/early 86 vented rotors/calipers, late 86 vented rotors/calipers do not use the thick washers/spacers, that is why some drop spindles say 86-97 as they do not supply spacers/thick washers, while most kits say 83-97 as they do supply the spacers/thick washers.

The spacers/washers adjust the caliper position, the hub is not modified. 

Edited by wayno
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You likely will if you have 85 brakes, the 85 rotor is offset differently than the late 86 rotor therefore the calipers will not mount properly without the spacer/thick washer.

You will understand when you try and mount the calipers, there will be a space about the same size as the washers/spacers, if there is not a space then you likely have later type brakes.

Basically the drop spindles were made for the D21/hardbody, but the last year of the 720 had the same brakes as the D21/hardbody so I guess the 720 had them first, anyway all the Belltech drop spindles were made for last year of the 2wd 720 and the 2wd D21/hardbody thru 97.

The 1978 thru 1982 balljoint/disc brake trucks had non-vented rotors and there are no drop spindles for them years, but everything between the 1983 thru 1990ish balljoints will bolt right into them balljoint years for a great brake upgrade, somewhere in the hardbody/d21 years the lower balljoint changed and instead of bolting into the lower control arm the balljoint was pressed into the lower control arm, but the drop spindles will fit the pressed in balljoints.

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The trimmed lower control arms are on my 66 520 with the 80 720 chassis with 85 720 vented rotors and calipers.  also runninng 1/4" spacers on the wheels.  I have decided to go to 16" wheels as I want to drive this truck many miles.

 

DSC02377.jpg

 

DSC02567.jpg

 

It is hard to get a good picture but I only have 1/8" to 3/16" clearance.

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so i got the spindles on and before i even started i noticed the passenger toe was way out. i got rid of all the clearance issues (it was already dropped 2 inches w torsion bars) and now the alignments wayy off. no one around wants to do it for a good price cuz its so low and i dont have $110 to spend on an alignment right now ( again, i spent all my money on the spindles lol). ill see if it can be adjusted any more for now cuz the tires fight each other going up the road right now and its been raining alot lately and also i dont have the bed on right now cuz its in the process of getting painted. 

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He put drop spindles in this truck, it is not going to be possible to adjust the toe out without modifying the tie rods as they are too long now.

Your going to have to cut the tie rods to make them shorter, you will likely have to cut the center adjustment part also, as I have never done this I cannot give you specifics, Charlie69 has done this as I recall, maybe he will read this and chime in, very few on here describe every detail of this modification.

I just searched Charlies thread, all he mentioned is trimming the tie rods a quarter inch, I didn't find out if that worked or if more had to be cut or if the adjuster had to be cut also, he had medical stuff done back then and also did a lot of wiring back then also, pages of wiring and explanations.

Edited by wayno
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I cut a ¼" off the outer tie rods but the drivers side is out of adjustment threads.. I was thinking It'd need to be easier to raise it back up some.. but I really like the height is sitting at right now. Not really sure what to do yet. Still need to change the valve cover, seeing as how mine has a hole in it. Good thing I've got a spare parts truck 😁

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will the tie rods still thread into the adjuster piece if they are out of threads? sorry for all the questions, ive been working on this truck for over a year kinda sorta not really knowing what im doing but have had help from friends and family around me. i just now got it straightened out from when i hydroplaned into a ditch last year the day before i got out of school for summer. i replaced all the steering components after the steering box gave out on me one morning going to pick my girlfriend up for church.. needless to say i almost ended up in a ditch 🙃👍 but i made it to her house and had to get it trailered home. and sorry to hear about your loss charlie. i send you my greatest condolences 🙏.

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Thank you for the kind words.

 

When I cut mine off I use a 4 1/2" grinder with a cutting wheel.  I put the tie rod end in a vise and cut the amount off.  Before cutting I run a nut up on the threads of the tie rod.  After cutting the tie rod I take the grinder with a flat disc and chamfer the cut end off the tie rod a little to remove any burrs left from cutting.  I then take and remove the nut and buy doing this to clean the threads up at the cut end.  I always run a nut up on any threads I am going to cut before cutting, this helps to get the threads cleaned up for the assembly of the parts.

Edited by Charlie69
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I also forgot to mention on my 66 520 with the 80 720 chassis I also have the Belltech 2" drop spindles.

 

Wayno is correct no one explains every step.  I did not cut my center adjuster tube that is why I have taken 5/8" off each inner and outer tie rod on both sides.  I advise you take take a 1/4" off each tie rod and check the fit.

 

The reason I have taken so much off is the 1980 center link is different then the 85/86 center link.  The instructions and the drop spindle are for 85 up. 

 

I always figure you can make things work if you are determined.  Wayno has guided me through many mods on my 520.  Wayno knows what he is talking about.

Edited by Charlie69
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