jagman Posted November 20, 2018 Report Share Posted November 20, 2018 I overheated the truck. Replaced the head gasket and noted the antifreeze incursion in cyls 2 and 3. I also replaced the pcv valve and replaced the original carb with a weber. All appears normal and timing is now spot on. I fired her up and she smokes (oil) on deceleration at speed ( 35-45 mph). Will this clear up with use? Quote Link to comment
Cheetahking Posted November 20, 2018 Report Share Posted November 20, 2018 A few questions: How do you know its oil? Did you surface the head before replacing the gasket? Is the coolant level remaining constant? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 21, 2018 Report Share Posted November 21, 2018 I'll assume that it didn't do this before and it's a new symptom. Very possible to get coolant and oil into the cylinders and exhaust manifold when changing a HG. A half hour drive should burn all trace of it out. 1/ I would check the oil and the oil level. If coolant got into the cylinders some of it also got past the rings and into the oil. Water will sink to the bottom and the oil float on top raising the level to where the crank may splash it onto the cylinders and over load the rings. On deceleration combustion chamber vacuum is very high and oil might get sucked up past the rings. If the oil is cloudy change it and the filter. Possibly also the head is warped and leaking coolant into the 2 or 3 cylinder and you're seeing coolant steam 2/ Another source of oil are the valve guide seals. Over heating may have finished them off and oil will run down the stems and into the cylinder and / or the exhaust manifold. New ones are a couple of bucks each and can easily be replaced with a spring compressor and a piece of rope with the head on. 3/ The head is warped badly in or around the 2 and 3 cylinders. This is also where the oil from the block enters the underside of the head to lubricate the valve train. Oil may be getting into one or both cylinders. Quote Link to comment
DIY 1985 Posted November 22, 2018 Report Share Posted November 22, 2018 (edited) Did you check the head and block with a machinist straight-edge? Edited November 22, 2018 by DIY 1985 Quote Link to comment
jagman Posted November 24, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2018 I did check the head with a 4 foot machinists rule and it is straight. I took it out for a 20 mile drive and found that the smoke dissipated after 6 miles. I again drove it the next day after putting in two quarts of oil and the same thing happened. The oil ( no antifreeze, the oil was changed) still appears to run out of the back of the engine but not from the area of the head or head gasket, that is dry. I have it timed for 5 degrees btc with no vacuum to the distributor as per your specs but she acts as though I have it too advanced when starting. Running, she has all the performance I could ask for. The oil leak is the bug in my soup now. You could say that I am the turkey of the day. Happy Turkey day! Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 24, 2018 Report Share Posted November 24, 2018 Two Quarts in 20 miles!!!!!! You said smokes. A leak is different. Leak is between the engine and transmission at back of the oil pan??? Quote Link to comment
Cheetahking Posted November 25, 2018 Report Share Posted November 25, 2018 How does it run? is it missing or just smoking? 1 Quote Link to comment
jagman Posted November 25, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2018 The smoking stops when the engine is run until hot. It might quit altogether if it is because the cylinders were scoured by the steam from the blown head gasket. The leak appears to be between the engine and transmission. It leaks when sitting and must leak more when running and with the new carb it runs very well. Do I have a blown rear seal? Can I put one in without pulling the engine? 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 25, 2018 Report Share Posted November 25, 2018 The entire underside of the truck must be oil covered. Probably on the exhaust and it burns off. If lucky it's the pan gasket but might be easier to pull the engine to do a good job with that... and then you may as well change the rear seal anyway. The flywheel has to come off for this. 1 Quote Link to comment
jagman Posted November 26, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2018 I will try to get the truck on the lift to check the pan and determine where the leak originates. I was hoping for a warm up but thats not happening soon! 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted November 27, 2018 Report Share Posted November 27, 2018 Check your oil filter. I have had problems with the NAPA Gold filters not sealing. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 27, 2018 Report Share Posted November 27, 2018 Maybe the rubber gasket fell off or the old one stuck and you have two on it. Quote Link to comment
jagman Posted November 28, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 28, 2018 I got her up on the lift today and cleaned the entire bottom of the truck (oil everywhere! ) and found the leak to be dripping from the metal plate that appears to be the front of the transmission. Two other folks looked at it and their observations were "it's the rear seal or the rear of the pan gasket". I checked the bolts on the pan and they are tight. I also climbed up and started the truck and the drip became a piddle. It looks like I will be pulling the transmission. I am hoping that I can replace the pan gasket and the rear seal when the tyranny is removed without having to pull the engine. I will also get a complete clutch kit for reassembly. Any advice would be appreciated. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted November 28, 2018 Report Share Posted November 28, 2018 ck to make sure the oil sender is not leaking and running to the back of the pan making it look like a rear seal or pan gasket Quote Link to comment
jagman Posted November 29, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2018 The oil sender is not leaking nor is the filter, so I am going to begin the disassembly process today with great trepidation. I will fly the banner of stupidity because there is no law against it! Quote Link to comment
jagman Posted November 30, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2018 I am just about to pull the tranny but have lost the little circlip that holds the shifter together. Where can I get one to fit? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 30, 2018 Report Share Posted November 30, 2018 Take the pin into a hardware or fastener store and look for an 'E clip" that will fit. Nissan may still have it. The number is 32854-24900 used last in '86.5. Quote Link to comment
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