!!!!!!!Radiator Problem!!!!!!

[Bugeye]

looks like it, hopefully somebody else can chime in on this

[ariascarlos1990]

For sure. If anything I'll try taking them off mine first so I don't ruin the good radiator.

[Cuts metal like mad]

Doesn't look like you lines are removeable, looks like that "good" rad has has the internal line though, so that's good. You may I my need some tranny cooler lines from something that will thread into those holes... Easy way to make sure it has the interanal line is to unplug those holes and filler up with water... At the top, not the holes, if wAter doesn't come out the holes your good.

[Cuts metal like mad]

if know how to braze... It's easy to put those fittings on the other rad. If not, a radiator shop should do it cheap. Then again it might be cheaper to have the hole repaired

[ariascarlos1990]

Good thinkin. I'll try this tomorrow.

 

thanks for all the help!

[ariascarlos1990]

if know how to braze... It's easy to put those fittings on the other rad. If not, a radiator shop should do it cheap. Then again it might be cheaper to have the hole repaired

 

The holes look like they have already been done once already can do it more than one time?

[datsunfish]

Dood.! You can get a universal tranny cooler that hooks to the radiator and plumbs to the tranny for pretty cheap. I have that setup for my 510 that I am yet to install.

[ariascarlos1990]

Dood.! You can get a universal tranny cooler that hooks to the radiator and plumbs to the tranny for pretty cheap. I have that setup for my 510 that I am yet to install.

 

I know. But, off of what and where?

[datsunaholic]

"Universal" means it isn't off anything. It's an RV Transmission cooler, any parts store has 'em in the back. I used one on my Citation when I busted the fittings on the radiator.

[ppeters914]

I looked up the radiators in the 620 Parts Sheets on OldDatsuns.com:

 

620 Parts Sheets

 

but it isn't clear to me whether they used the same radiator for manual and auto tranny vehicles. You have your basic, standard style Nissan part number, but it gets an additional number (modifier?) depending on whether the vehicle had A/C or auto trans.

 

I'd just take both radiators down to a good radiator shop and see what they say.

[ppeters914]

Are you sure its tranny fluid? If it is we have a problem... lol

yeah, its for tranny fluid......

Well thats not good then. Because the fluid is black ass hell! is there an alternative? like just connecting the two line together? Or do I need the cooler?

 

You absolutely positively need a separate fluid cooler for the auto trans. It can be the stock one which is part of the stock radiator, or a separate external one.

 

If your auto trans fluid is black, you need to have change the tranny fluid and filter IMMEDIATELY!!! :eek: You do change it every 30k miles, right? :rolleyes:

Edited November 2, 2008 by ppeters914

[ariascarlos1990]

I got this all figured out. I went to shcucks auto supply and bought some of those tranny inserts (aka Tubes) they where $5 a piece!. but, I heard that its not good to just replace you tranny fluid. is this true?

[ppeters914]

I heard that its not good to just replace you tranny fluid. Is this true?

 

In an engine, all the oil drains into the oil pan except for what's in the filter.

 

In an automatic transmission, you have fluid in the pan, a little in the filter, in the lines going to/from the auto trans fluid cooler, and the cooler itself. The pan/filter only hold 50-60 percent of the fluid in the entire system, which is why flushing the system is the best practice. Most fluid change places have a machine they hook up. Yeah, yeah, we all know about the Jiffy Lubes that got caught doing fake flushes, so I'd go somewhere that has a good rep.

 

Normally, since you say your trans fluid was black, I'd say flush. However, you've already disconnected the system, drained the tubing and replacing the radiator, so you're gonna be filling the entire system with fresh tranny oil. Don't forget a new tranny filter.

 

I'd plan on a flush after 1000 miles and then go back on the regular maintenance schedule.

[ariascarlos1990]

Okay, ill get the fluid and do the flush.

[BarryA]

1) run a radiator that has a trans cooler in the bottom tank or 2) run an external cooler in front of the radiator (the trans cooler in the bottom tank is usually more than just a single tube passing through the tank - it's usually either several tubes "siamesed" off the tank fittings, or a coil of tubing - either way, the idea is to provide more surface area for the coolant to contact the oil line).

 

You might be able to get away with not running any sort of cooler if you only drive short distances and don't carry loads or climb hills, but you'll still dramaticly shorten the life of the a/t without one. BTW, the older and "looser" an auto trans is, the more important the cooler is, due to the greater heat generated by slipping bands and clutch packs in an older unit......

[mklotz70]

The hex is on the nipples so that you can hold them with a wrench when you tighten the cooling lines......so you don't twist or damage the radiator.

 

You can get a trans cooler at almost any parts store.

[ariascarlos1990]

Got it now.

 

Thanks

[datzenmike]

I don't know... black fluid is either burnt ATF or clutch material or both. If burnt the fluid friction properties have changed and it needs to be gotten out of there! Emptying it and replacing isn't enough because the torque converter is also full and it will just mix with and dilute the new fluid.

 

To remove ALL the old ATF do this: Remove the tranny cover plat and drain out all the old fluid and replace the filter. Replace the pan with a new gasket and fill to the correct level with the proper Nissan ATF. Block the rear wheels and apply E brake. Remove the return coolant line from the rad and gear clamp a ength of hose that will reach a 2 gallon pail that you can watch. With the E brake on start the vehicle and place in DRIVE at idle. The new ATF will be pumped into the torque converter and flush it out to the cooler in the rad and into the pail. When about a liter is in the pail, stop and top up the tranny. Repeat until the fluid coming out is bright red. This will prevent old fluid from mixing with the new. The change won't be abrupt as the torque converter will tend to mix it but eventually the burnt fluid will be flushed out. Be prepared with at least a gallon of ATF more would be better.

 

Change every 30,000 miles or if a change in color or smell.

NEVER tow with an automatic but if you have to, change the ATF right away.

HEAT is the biggest killer of automatics (towing)

ALWAYS add an aftermarket transmission oil cooler inline.

 

BTW: I wouldn't bother with hooking lines up and changing the rad. Get a large after market trailer towing transmission cooler. Far and away better and easier. If you have ever cut a rad open you will know that the stock cooler inside is nothing more than a copper pipe connecting the inlet and outlet together and about a foot of pipe actually running in near boiling water. The external cooler has fins like an air conditioner and is much much better.

Edited November 14, 2008 by datzenmike

[ariascarlos1990]

Gotcha. I have a four speed waitin to put in. I need a clutch