Pabloairmale Posted May 12, 2017 Report Share Posted May 12, 2017 hello everyone! new to the Datsun seen, have a 71 521 with a carb issue. has a rebuilt carb on it and was running pretty bad. i removed it, cleaned it and now the bowl will not fill. I replaced the pump, removed the filter (tempo)and filled the tank with gas. not sure whats up with this thing. thanks in advance. 1 Quote Link to comment
Osoi Posted May 12, 2017 Report Share Posted May 12, 2017 Sounds like you might have a clogged line or filter. Although, without seeing any pictures of the carb, who knows. Being as you took apart and cleaned the Carb, I'd start with missing parts that could cause the problem. 3 Quote Link to comment
Digi7al Trauma Posted May 12, 2017 Report Share Posted May 12, 2017 clogged line/filter as Osoi stated. Or bad pump... check the easier parts first 2 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted May 12, 2017 Report Share Posted May 12, 2017 Remove hose from carb and turn it over to see if fuel comes out of fuel line. 3 Quote Link to comment
willz Posted May 12, 2017 Report Share Posted May 12, 2017 Pull the line off the carb and put it into a bottle, crank the car over. Fuel? Good, issue is down stream in the carb No? Try priming the fuel line by spraying starter fluid into the carb and turning it over 1 Quote Link to comment
datson4life Posted May 13, 2017 Report Share Posted May 13, 2017 Ive gotten an autozone (it was an emergency) fuel pump that didnt pump anything. So yea like stated above put line into a bottle and crank Quote Link to comment
racerx Posted May 13, 2017 Report Share Posted May 13, 2017 Ur fuel tank okay? Maybe rusty Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 13, 2017 Report Share Posted May 13, 2017 1/ Pull hose of carb and direct into a suitable container... crank engine... Got gas???? Yes... Pump and everything befor it id good. Inlet needle valve on carb is plugged or stuck. Screen on fuel inlet on carb plugged. Float is stuck in the up position and won't let gas in. No... see 2/ 2/ remove hose from pump inlet and place in a container of gas. Crank engine. Got gas??? No... pump is bad Yes... filter is plugged. Fuel line is plugged. Gas tank is empty. 1 Quote Link to comment
Pabloairmale Posted May 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2017 Hello YaLL! since my last post i got the car running, i blow out lines, replaced the pump(old one was good), rebulit the carb again, and replaced the fuel filter. truck had 2 issues 1, the fuel lines were all the wrong size. lines were sucking air into the system. the second issue was the carb. it was sucking air from one of the gaskets. the aftermarket builder put some type of glue to hold a stripped screw in. drilled, tapped and a new bolt and done! now i looking for help with setting the timing. iam not used to seeing 2 bolts for timing adjustment. Any thoughts? 2 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 13, 2017 Report Share Posted May 13, 2017 The bolts just secure the distributor in place. Loosen just enough that you can twist the distributor to set the timing and then tighten. Find the notches on the crankshaft pulley. The crank turns clockwise so the last mark over on the left is zero. Each mark to the right is 5 degrees. There is usually a pointer (L16) bolted to the timing chain cover somewhere below the distributor, Use a timing light There are so many variations for this you best refer to a manual for the correct timing advance for the 521.... probably 5 degrees. 1 Quote Link to comment
Pabloairmale Posted May 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2017 truck still has the timing plate on it, 10 degress. so the bottom screw facing up is just a hold down screw? only the top screw facing down is the timing adjustment? 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 14, 2017 Report Share Posted May 14, 2017 There is a plate under the dizzy. One of the screws holds it on, the other when loosened allows the distributor to be rotated to set timing. That plate really isn't setting the timing... that done by the pointer and the notches on the crank. 3 Quote Link to comment
Pabloairmale Posted May 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2017 hello everyone! the carb was replaced on this truck and i have the old one. new carb has a one wire solenoid on it and the old one has a two plug. i noticed the new carb was conected to the temp sender plug. i have 2 wire connections coming off of what looks like a neutral or fuel switch above that connection there are 2 plugs that are disconnected, color might be green and yellow and yellow. i also have 2 cut wires next to coil oneblue and red and the other black. ive been looking at the wire diagram for about 4hrs off and on. still looks like spagetti to me. oh and how do i post pics on here? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 15, 2017 Report Share Posted May 15, 2017 http://community.ratsun.net/topic/54932-photobucket-ratsun/ Idle cut solenoid should have 12 volts from any ignition switched source. It should not be connected to the temp sender. Better post pictures.There was a carb switch for connecting and disconnecting the dual points. 1 Quote Link to comment
Pabloairmale Posted May 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2017 [/url]">http://http://s997.photobucket.com/user/prlife/media/IMG_0237.jpg.html'> Quote Link to comment
Pabloairmale Posted May 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2017 [/url]">http://http://s997.photobucket.com/user/prlife/media/IMG_0240%20-%20Copy.jpg.html'> Quote Link to comment
Pabloairmale Posted May 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2017 [/url]">http://http://s997.photobucket.com/user/prlife/media/IMG_0238.jpg.html'> Quote Link to comment
Pabloairmale Posted May 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2017 [/url]">http://http://s997.photobucket.com/user/prlife/media/IMG_0242%20-%20Copy.jpg.html'> Quote Link to comment
Pabloairmale Posted May 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2017 [/url]">http://http://s997.photobucket.com/user/prlife/media/IMG_0239.jpg.html'> Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 15, 2017 Report Share Posted May 15, 2017 Not a Datsun carb. Chinese knock off? It would appear the solenoid isn't connected to the temp sender, just into the harness to the distributor and the temp sender. Turn ignition on off on off.... you should hear a soft click from the solenoid if working. So what works and what doesn't??? Quote Link to comment
Pabloairmale Posted May 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2017 I ran a temporary 12volt line from battery to carb and the car starts and idles, but sputters and back fires when I try to drive. I checked both sets of wires for a source of power and both are died. Nothing in the cluster works. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 15, 2017 Report Share Posted May 15, 2017 The idle cut solenoid when powered allows gas to the idle circuit. When ignition is turned off it shuts it off to quickly stall an engine. This is all it does. No power to the solenoid, means no idle below 1,200 RPMs unless idle speed screw is turned way up and running on the primary circuit. Quote Link to comment
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