datsunfreak Posted July 2, 2017 Report Share Posted July 2, 2017 Also, been meaning to confirm this for about a year now, but something is telling me the sway bars are different. Might need the A10 sway bar too. This... We'll see as soon I locate the member. Took some measurements today. The A10 sway bar is roughly the same shape and will bolt in, but the front bit near the oil pan dips 1" lower and 1" farther out (towards the radiator) than the 210 bar. Diameter appears to be identical. 1 Quote Link to comment
Cleopatra Jones Posted July 6, 2017 Report Share Posted July 6, 2017 I did not realize you had a build thread up in herrrr. Nice job! She's coming along. Did you end up getting any seals from Thailand? I'd be interested to know how the ones for the windshield worked out. FYI, the 210 became the Sentra so should be a few parts that fit. Stanley has Sentra door hinge pins. If I remember correctly they were a little long but didn't need to be modified and fit perfect. Some 720 parts are the same as well. Especially if you're ever on the lookout for 1/4 window latches because 2 door 210s are scarce. They're the same. 1 Quote Link to comment
Daryl Posted July 6, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2017 Yup, It keeps me on track when I require to do maintenance or have done so. Thanks. I haven't had a chance to install the seals yet. The rear needs replacement before the start of the fall rain season for sure. Others I can do later on. I'll post when I jump on it for sure. On my other 210 I have 1990 sentra rear window latches. Pretty darn the same and plentiful of them. By going the L-series route it'll give me time to locate a rebuild-able A series trans. Then Back to A-series to keep er close to stock. Haven't had a chance to get work done & awaiting for RockAuto packages to come in so paint is all I've done. DSCN0530 by cad lab, on Flickr Cracked Space will continue once parts arrive. Quote Link to comment
Cleopatra Jones Posted July 6, 2017 Report Share Posted July 6, 2017 On my other 210 I have 1990 sentra rear window latches. Pretty darn the same and plentiful of them. That's good to know. You got a photo of them? 1 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted July 7, 2017 Report Share Posted July 7, 2017 By going the L-series route it'll give me time to locate a rebuild-able A series trans. Then Back to A-series to keep er close to stock. You will never go back. Trust. B) 1 Quote Link to comment
Daryl Posted July 8, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2017 That's good to know. You got a photo of them? Yoko is in major need of a set b/c of flapping windows. Pick N' Pulls having a 50% off July 15-16 which makes it a done deal. A nice write up too. You will never go back. Trust. B) That is what I'm afraid of..... :rofl: Today's our local collector car appreciation day so a wax was done in prep last night for the show. DSCN0545 by cad lab, on Flickr 2 Quote Link to comment
Cleopatra Jones Posted July 9, 2017 Report Share Posted July 9, 2017 Today's our local collector car appreciation day so a wax was done in prep last night for the show. DSCN0545 by cad lab, on Flickr So pretty 1 Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted July 11, 2017 Report Share Posted July 11, 2017 You will never go back. Trust. B) ^ That. You can buy a few L 5 speeds for the cost of an A 5 speed. And they're stronger also. 2 Quote Link to comment
Daryl Posted July 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2017 You can buy a few L 5 speeds for the cost of an A 5 speed. And they're stronger also. Ya'll won't believe what I located at PnP! Wasn't expecting to see any datsuns. What a score. Got a sweet FS5W60A (first gear towards dash) from a very, very, rusty 79 hatch 210. Fit nicely in the boot area. P1030630 by cad lab, on Flickr Got some more goodies but that's the icing, so I'll dump em tomorrow. 1 Quote Link to comment
Daryl Posted July 16, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2017 A few days later, the rest of the haul... Found the missing link for the fuel door. P1030637 by cad lab, on Flickr 210 emblems that aren't cracked, just have peeling fake chrome. Best set I've seen in years. P1030636 by cad lab, on Flickr Lastly probably the best thing to enjoy long trips. From: P1030633 by cad lab, on Flickr To: P1030632 by cad lab, on Flickr A couple more things for when I get a chance. 1 Quote Link to comment
Cleopatra Jones Posted July 19, 2017 Report Share Posted July 19, 2017 210 emblems that aren't cracked, just have peeling fake chrome. Best set I've seen in years. P1030636 by cad lab, on Flickr Wow nice score! :thumbup: Not easy to find emblems in that kind of condition. The one I found I used to make my own set. 1 Quote Link to comment
Daryl Posted August 1, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2017 Thanks. They're made from some strange material. Flexible yet not fully plastic. Wow nice score! :thumbup: Not easy to find emblems in that kind of condition. The one I found I used to make my own set. Finally some down time to work on the Hitachi. Depending on carb accelerator pump type you'll need one or two kits. I required two. Kits needed: 1982-1986 Sentra 1.5/6L Base & 1979-1982 210 1.2L Base. O'Reilly or Rock Auto. Warning: Carbs have heavy wear & tear. Don't Clean Anything if Possible!!! Replace pars & reassemble dirty.Compressed air for passages is Ok. Throttle shafts will end up with vacuum leaks if cleaned. Below are the Kits: P1030638 by cad lab, on Flickr P1030639 by cad lab, on Flickr P1030640 by cad lab, on Flickr Before: P1030641 by cad lab, on Flickr P1030642 by cad lab, on Flickr P1030643 by cad lab, on Flickr Parts replaced: P1030644 by cad lab, on Flickr P1030645 by cad lab, on Flickr Back together: P1030648 by cad lab, on Flickr P1030650 by cad lab, on Flickr P1030649 by cad lab, on Flickr Little differences between four Hitachi models: P1030646 by cad lab, on Flickr P1030647 by cad lab, on Flickr Hitachi DCH-306 Is the model I have, although the picture has the accelerator pump for that of a L-series Hitachi. Nissan made another 210 variant with an L-series pump. Wheel bearing are up-next. Quote Link to comment
Daryl Posted August 21, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2017 Been reading up on manuals, wiring diagrams and came across the starting procedures. From what I understood: I press the pedal to the floor and release it, then crank er.... Somewhat confusing unless I'm correct. So the question is how exactly do I starter up when she's cold? Or how do ya'll do it? press by cad lab, on Flickr Quote Link to comment
Daryl Posted August 22, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2017 Followed the above "Engine Cold" procedure and wouldn't ya know, it starts up a whole lot better. That's now solved. Hit 286k this past weekend. Hooray! I plan to swap transmissions (4 to 5 speed) at 300k so that's the next goal. Quote Link to comment
Cosmonaut Posted August 22, 2017 Report Share Posted August 22, 2017 All of the 5spds I have found recently have been toasty. 1 Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted August 22, 2017 Report Share Posted August 22, 2017 I passed you on i5 headed to Canby in a tan 4dr dime right before the Salem area I think. That 5 speed should help with those MPH's. :) 1 Quote Link to comment
Daryl Posted August 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2017 All of the 5spds I have found recently have been toasty. You don't say.... Couple weeks back drove out to redding to look at a 80's Cressida which ended up being a flop. Vin#s weren't matching and I wasn't getting involved so I got outa there. Another one of those "CL situations". Anyway, from there drove up to Sac PnP. Did find a 210 that had a 5 speed, that is a 5 speed knob in a 4 speed. Depressing is an understatement. Haven't checked the oil in the 5 speed and I do hope it's good internally I passed you on i5 headed to Canby in a tan 4dr dime right before the Salem area I think. That 5 speed should help with those MPH's. :) I think so. Cruised along at 60-65mph with pretty high rpms. Still got good mp/g. I've heard day/night of a difference. Don't think she's ever been above 65 so 90 should be pretty fun. :frantics: Quote Link to comment
Cosmonaut Posted August 23, 2017 Report Share Posted August 23, 2017 Change the oil stat in the 5spd 2 Quote Link to comment
Daryl Posted August 29, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 29, 2017 Change the oil stat in the 5spd I'll do so when I begin the swap. I'll be throwing a neutral safety switch, reverse switch and output shaft seal on er too. New Dilemma. Yesterday all was great and nothing was wrong when I took-er out for 3hr drive. 100miles. Today I had quite a few stalls. Now onto the problem: Warmed er up this morning (7am). I like to let er warm up to the second line on the stock temp gauge. Pressed on the fuel pedal to open choke, which does open. Once RPMs drop to a nice idle she stays idle for 10-30 seconds and begins to die and pretty quickly dies. If I press on the fuel pedal lightly, RPMs rise and I can keep er running. So, I pressed the fuel pedal just to get into 1st gear once in it I can let go and up-shift or downshift normally and only sometimes will it stall when I come to a stop but most of today it would idle perfectly fine after driving around. Also to note: When I stopped at the petrol station, idle was normal. I refueled and when I tried to starter-up she didn't want to till after I pressed on the fuel pedal, then acted up with the above idle issue. I arrived home after 2hrs driving, 80 miles trip, 0-70mph and I had a normal idle. I let-er idle for 5 minutes once home. Pressed and depressed on the fuel pedal multiple times. It didn't die kept idle perfect. Nothing has been messed with and all looks good under the hood visually. So what exactly is going on?? Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted August 30, 2017 Report Share Posted August 30, 2017 Sounds like the choke is not functioning properly to me. 1 Quote Link to comment
Cosmonaut Posted August 30, 2017 Report Share Posted August 30, 2017 Watch the flow in the radiator, wait until the thermostat opens. At that moment take note if the position of the temp needle...this is where it needs to be for normal operation. Also, check the choke after kickdown (when thermostat has opened) and be sure of 1) Choke fully open 2) that the idle screw is riding against the shoulder of the last step down. When you first start your Datsun you may not be 100% warmed-up, also the fuel stop could of conceivably let it cool down past the optimum point 1 Quote Link to comment
Daryl Posted August 31, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2017 Sounds like the choke is not functioning properly to me. Filming on the way to work, which was great since no issues were presented. Watch the flow in the radiator, wait until the thermostat opens. At that moment take note if the position of the temp needle...this is where it needs to be for normal operation. Also, check the choke after kickdown (when thermostat has opened) and be sure of 1) Choke fully open 2) that the idle screw is riding against the shoulder of the last step down. I'll get to the thermostat tomorrow morning. Can't remember but I think I checked it when carb was out. If the "Idle Speed Screw" or gap between the "Throttle Valve and Chamber" and not correct would that affect idle one day vs the next day? Would temperature make a difference b/c it was 106F yesterday and today under 80F. Quote Link to comment
JDOM310 Posted September 1, 2017 Report Share Posted September 1, 2017 Daryl found your build, car is awesome !!! IM a fan can't believe you drove all that insane!!! Very inspirational my 210 Has a long way to go but everytime one problems gets figured out its very rewarding man. If your still looking for interior pieces check out las Vegas Craigslist there's a donor 210 with all tan interior getting parted 1 Quote Link to comment
Daryl Posted September 2, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2017 Daryl found your build, car is awesome !!!IM a fan can't believe you drove all that insane!!!Very inspirational my 210 Has a long way to go but everytime one problems gets figured out its very rewarding man. If your still looking for interior pieces check out las Vegas Craigslist there's a donor 210 with all tan interior getting parted Hope to see yours as well sometime. Thank you. I enjoy datos and the community. Honest, hard working ratsuners. I'm looking into an aluminum (race car like) dash. Plastic just isn't cutting it anymore and i'd like to have a full set of fancy gauges too :rofl:. Quote Link to comment
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