My 1971 521

[d.p]

There are four wires under the ash tray.  I think they are ground, always hot, ignition hot and lights on hot.

 

I just got it from the black/white wire off the fuse box.  Not sure what to do about the light  but don't really care at this point.  

[mainer311]

On the wiring schematic, it was shown that the under hood light only comes on when two conditions are met: the hood is open (push button switch), and when the parking or headlights are switched on.

 

On my truck, I noticed that the under hood light was always on if the button was released, so I found the wire that it was supposed to be plugged into, and low and behold, that wire turns on and off with the lights. That’s where I tapped the tach illumination in. In fact, other than the coil signal wire, all of my wires get terminated very close to the fuse box.

[d.p]

Cool.  I will check that engine bay light to see if I can make it work.  

 

Where did you feed your wires through the firewall?  Steering column?

[mainer311]

Yup, through the rubber near the steering column, then zip-tied the bundle of wires to the steering column.

[d.p]

Solid, worked like a charm.  Ground/12V and the light all terminate right near the fuse box.   One thing though that mount you made me took 0 paint, I must have put like 5 coats of primer + paint on it but eventually gave up because it ended up gray.  

[mainer311]

*shrugs*

 

I’ve painted many 3D printed parts with a lot of success.

[datzenmike]

Wheel bearing. Tighten spindle nut to 22-25 ft lb. Rotate hub CW and CCW a few times. Check that the 22-25 ft pounds hasn't changed. Back nut off 40-70 degrees so that the cap on the nut allows a cotter pin to fit through. Done.

 

Wheel bearings don't have to be rough when turned to make noise. Running rims without covers over the dust cap can (not always) let water in. Water in the grease will look milky in color. Usually bearing grease is a bright color. Water will not lubricate and the bearings will pit.

 

I had a slight growl on right turns. I noticed it while sitting and driving to/from Canby for 10 hours, the whole car talks to you. I thought it might be a tire but swapped sides when I got home and still there. I took the inner race and bearing out. It looked fine but I pulled an old one from another hub anyway. The old one was very smooth and even but the new one was like shiny chrome. I changed it (and got new grease seals) and amazing, the sound was gone! Doesn't take much to make noise.

[d.p]

*shrugs*

 

I’ve painted many 3D printed parts with a lot of success.

 

What did you use? regular spray paint?  

 

Great mount, great work btw.  

[mainer311]

Whatever I had laying around. I can't remember. I know I used self-etching primer, and then the paint was probably just a black enamel.

[d.p]

Whatever I had laying around. I can't remember. I know I used self-etching primer, and then the paint was probably just a black enamel.

Weird man. I just got some spray paint + primer krylon and it would not take. I’ll post some pics tomorrow.

 

Sucks now though cause it’s all installed and it would be time consuming to take off and try to paint again. lol

[d.p]

Painting ton of coats:

 

 

Installed:

 

As you can see it took 0 paint.  

[mainer311]

Man, that’s bizarre.

 

Here’s a center console I made for the roadster that I printed out of the same stuff.

 

[d.p]

Yeah idk what happened...at some point I will try and paint it again.   

[d.p]

Couple questions...

 

1. My floor mats are wet after it rains a ton, floor boards aren't but the mats are.  Could they just be absorbing moisture inside the truck?  Other than that I don't see how they would get wet when the carpet underneath them is is dry.  I through maybe water was leaking in from somewhere but nothing else is wet, only the two floor mats.    

2. What is the best head for an L20B? I got access to an L20B shortblock and a bunch of heads(A87 and W58) to choose from but not sure what to get.  Read a bunch of threads but still not clear.      

[hobospyder]

Leaky windshield being absorbed by the mats and keeping the floor dry. Or door seals but generally windshield. Shouldn't get moist enough inside for the floormats to be wet no matter how much it rains. So, bad weather seal somewhere

 

I don't know about the head, depends on what you're going for but if either is a closed chamber or peanut head use that one

[d.p]

Yeah I figured I got a leak just doesn't make sense that the mats are the only thing wet.  Meaning to get to the mats you got to go over or under the carpet and dynamat....but maybe they are just soaking it all up.  I did replace the windshield but didn't use any sealer between the gasket and the frame.  I guess I can put a hose on it and watch to see where if anything comes through.  

 

Just looking for something streetable, don't haul that much and don't blast around town but want a little more get up and go than I have now with an L16.    Also nothing wrong with my L16 but very rarely are there anything truck related close to me so I figured I might as well get the L20 and just build it up/learn for when the time comes to replace the L16.  

[xxmass]

 

2. What is the best head for an L20B? I got access to an L20B shortblock and a bunch of heads(A87 and W58) to choose from but not sure what to get.  Read a bunch of threads but still not clear.      

 

In case you missed  

 

http://dimequarterly.blogspot.com/2012/02/tech-how-to-l-series-cylinder-head.html

[d.p]

In case you missed  

 

http://dimequarterly.blogspot.com/2012/02/tech-how-to-l-series-cylinder-head.html

 

Yea that is a fucking awesome link.  I want a 219 SSS head now.  

[d.p]

New set of wheels showed up, 2 months to the day from Poland.

 

Thinking black, gold or gunmetal faces.  Never had gold wheels so maybe go that route.  Blue does look good too but clashes big time with the blue on my truck otherwise I would keep them blue.   Anyone good at photoshop?  

 

 

[datzenmike]

I would go with the U67 head as you can use the much more efficient L16/18 4 into 2 cast iron header and down pipe. For best results get a '78 and up intake that has the water cooled/warmed intake runners. You could use the L16/18 intakes but they are smaller. Definitely throw away the U67 intake/exhaust manifolds. The U67 came on all '75-'77 L20Bs The earliest '74 L20B used on the 610 might have been an A87 like the ones used on the L18s. A87 ports are smaller and the valves may or may not be the same as the U67, depends. From '78 through '80 the W58 head was used with it's mismatched round exhaust ports that had steel emissions liners in them. Other than the liners and the round shape exhaust ports the W58 is identical to the U67 for port and valve size. All L20B exhaust manifolds are 4 into 1 and just functional.

[greenthumb]

nice wheels. Look like my Bergs?

[d.p]

Yeah they do look like bergs but they aren't.  Not sure what brand they are though...the only thing I do know is they are 3 piece forged.   

[greenthumb]

nice! That's a significant upgrade on the cast two piece Bergs. Great find. Love that style

[greenthumb]

what size and offset are yours?

[d.p]

15 x 8 -3 IIRC.