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My 1971 521


d.p

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With the dust cap off, does the hub move around independently of the spindle/nut? If so, that may be your problem, the nut backed off like Neil said, and your hub is loose. Tightening the nut on a front spindle is an art. You don't want to go too tight, and you don't want to go too loose. It has to be done by feel.

...exactly..its more of a feel.
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Well I my hub was stuck to my drum so I pulled them off together.  Got the outer taper bearing out and it span nice and smooth.  Couldnt get the seal off the inner bearing and didn't want to fuck it up so I just cleaned them up, packed them with grease and put it all back together.   Hand tightened that nut enough to get the cotter pin through and now the nut doesn't move where it did before.  The hub spins nice and smooth as well whereas before there was a little drag.    

 

With the hub/drum off it didn't have as much play as it did with the wheel on it but that was before I took it all apart.  Will take it for a drive and see what if anything changed.  

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Well no change but I narrowed it down to 4th gear at 35-40, if I shift into 3rd at that same speed sound goes away as the RPMS are higher.  Stay in 4th its just a loud humming/drone. So it seems to be load/gear related?  

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  • 1 month later...

Question about weber 32/36 and choke fully open.

 

So had hard time getting my truck started with all this bitter cold weather we have had lately.  In the end I got it turned over with help from crash, a squirt of carb cleaner down the carb and my hand covering the the two barrels and it fired right up.  Without my hand covering it the truck would not start.

 

This is what the butterflies look like when my choke is fully open (knob pulled all the way out).

 

25710530058_b133b42734_z.jpg

 

Should those butterflies be completely horizontal when the choke is fully open?    

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When the knob is out, the choke is closed, meaning that the airflow to the carb is being choked, so the butterflies will be covering the throttle bores. They may not cover all the way, depending on your choke pull. Better to make sure that they open all the way so it doesn't affect normal running.

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Your truck would start easier in very cold weather if the air horn (top of carb) was closed off completely.  However as soon as the engine "catches" or starts running you need to immediately open the choke some, or the completely closed choke will flood the engine.  

 

Every engine with a carburetor has its own personality.  You have to learn what the engine carb combo needs to start, and that does change with the weather.  In the summer, even if the truck has sat overnight, it may start with no choke at all.  As it get colder you need to add some choke, or pump the throttle once, or more to get to engine to start.

 

Pumping the throttle is another way to put more gasoline in to the intake manifold, so the cylinders get enough gas vapor to start.   but if you pump too much liquid gasoline into the intake manifold, excess liquid gas will get into the cylinders, and that washes oil off the cylinder walls.  This causes the rings to wear faster.

 

Pulling the choke on open the throttle some.  This is why idle speeds up when you pull the choke cable.  If you pump the throttle with the choke cable pulled, the fast idle reduces the amount of fuel the accelerator pump squirts in to the manifold, because the accelerator pump does not fully return to the beginning of its stroke.   Also, if you step on the gas pedal, with the engine not running, it puts less stress on the choke cable, because the cable is now only moving the choke linkage, and not also having to move the throttle too.

 

When I want to start one of my Datsuns in very cold weather, I pump the gas pedal a few times, more if colder, with the choke cable all the way in, and on the last pump, hold the gas pedal down and pull the choke.   All the way if very cold, not all the way, if is is mildly cold.  Then I crank the engine.  When the engine starts, I push the choke in some, to a speed the engine will keep running.   I let the engine warm up some before I think of moving the truck.

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choke disengaged I the plate is UP nd Down. allow all air to get in

 

choke ON or flap is closed or nearly closed. causes to suck more gas.

 

that photo shows you have the choke engaged.  ,when truck is warmed up and running it will not get free flowing air and limit your driving.

 

 

To cheat it I crank the motor to filll the carb if it goes empty over time then pump the gas to dump gas in manifold and pull the choke. then start EZ!

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Well that picture is the choke closed meaning the knob pulled all the way out.  They are open when the choke is open so don't think I have an issue there.  

 

Really just wondering why covering them with my hand got the truck started almost immediately when I was fighting it for 30-40 minutes already.  

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Sounds like you may have a fuel delivery issue, and completely covering the carb opening choked enough gas into it to get it going. Full choke should almost completely close those upper butterflies.

 

Yeah that's what I thought as well, crash said putting my hand over it caused enough vacuum to get gas in it.  

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Pumped the pedal, held it down, sprayed carb cleaner down the throat.  Nothing helped until I put my hand over it.

 

I think at this point I will just leave it for now, if I continue to have problems starting it maybe I will adjust the choke to close the butterflies a little more and see what happens.   Also its not usually this cold for this long so hopefully it was just because of the low temps.  

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holding the pedal down does the opposite as like not having the choke on, Id don't create a vacuum

 

 

Pump the pedal then let off. this is of coarse you cranked the motor over a few times to make sure the fuel pump put gas in the carb bowl.

 

 

pull choke pump and its catching to start, pump the gas.till it runs then fine tune it with the choke pushing it in when warm

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Yea, no one has told you the right thing to do here yet, you need to adjust the choke cable so it completely closes the choke valves/butterflies, that last photo you posted of the top of the carb the valves/butterflies are not completely closed, putting your hand over the carb did stop the air from getting in so it started and you removed your hand when it did start so it kept running.

This is what a closed choke looks like.

DSCN7629.jpg

This is what yours looks like, it is not completely closed, and that is why it doesn't want to start.

DSCN7630.jpg

Once it starts you push the choke in a little so that it will stay running like Daniel mentioned.

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