agentalpha Posted October 22, 2008 Report Share Posted October 22, 2008 (edited) FOR SOME REASON, NO image LINKS ARE WORKING! They are working FINE at other sites!!! http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=140192 Edited October 22, 2008 by agentalpha Quote Link to comment
Cuts metal like mad Posted October 22, 2008 Report Share Posted October 22, 2008 careful man... seen many a project sold "cause the landlord said so" GOOD LUCK! :thumbup: Quote Link to comment
agentalpha Posted October 22, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2008 It would go into storage first. Will anyways when the engine/trans is ready to drop in. Just trying to delay the $250 a month... Thank You, Sir... Quote Link to comment
Phlebmaster Posted October 22, 2008 Report Share Posted October 22, 2008 The links are fine...what part is not working?? Quote Link to comment
agentalpha Posted October 22, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2008 Strange. I couldn't get them to work a few hours ago, and I'm pretty good with code. Thanks, Bro!:) Quote Link to comment
bonvo Posted October 22, 2008 Report Share Posted October 22, 2008 do you still have the spoiler you took off? i would like to get somthing like that for my 610 and i know that the trunk lid angles are similar Quote Link to comment
agentalpha Posted October 22, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2008 When I get home, I'll dig it out of the trash. If you want what I have, you are welcome to it! :D Write me: agentc73(at)hotmail(dot) com Chris P.S. I'm in Hayward, CA. If you want it, you'll have to pick it up. I can't fool with shipping it, as I don't have my own running car, YET. Quote Link to comment
agentalpha Posted October 24, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2008 So, this Sunday(10/26/08) I go to pick up a couple of motors(2.8L and 2.6L), a 4 spd, a R180 rear, and extra drive shaft. Nearly everyday I work on the Z. I think I didn't touch it maybe only one day since I bought it, like 2 weeks ago. Mostly minor surface rust treatment with naval jelly to eat any rust, 'till the metal is COMPLETELY rust free, etching primer, then sand-able primer. Takes A LOT of time, but will be good to go for at least another 40+ years. And, I want to save any intact metal I can. Ongoing Search for parts I need or want. Now that I have my engine and a usable trans lined up, the next biggest thing to buy is the wheels and tires. After that, it's all downhill, easy and cheap details. Paint? Probably a gallon of cheap white enamel from a farm supply, or something to that effect. My car may be P*I*M*P, but it IS a RATSUN!! ;) Quote Link to comment
bonvo Posted October 24, 2008 Report Share Posted October 24, 2008 i sent you an emailyour about an hours haul from me Quote Link to comment
Jester Posted October 24, 2008 Report Share Posted October 24, 2008 Are you going to reupholster your factory seats or replace them? Quote Link to comment
agentalpha Posted October 24, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2008 (edited) Excellent question! FOR SALE, or TRADE!:D UNLESS you are offering the factory RED seat covers. The pass. side is kind rough. Looking for some decent road course style seats. Red, maybe red and black, preferrably. Edited October 24, 2008 by agentalpha Quote Link to comment
521Lvr Posted October 24, 2008 Report Share Posted October 24, 2008 Sweet! I like the louvered inspection lids. I have a set of red Tenzo R racing seats mounted on oe seat rails. They fit in the car perfect!. Quote Link to comment
agentalpha Posted October 24, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2008 TY. I kinda like 'em, myself. I think they will help draw out the hottest underhood air. Are you looking to sell your seats? Shipping would kill me from Tenn.:eek: Pics? Price? PM?:lol: Quote Link to comment
agentalpha Posted October 26, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2008 (edited) Update. Bought a buncha stuff off what seemed a level, hard workin' college kid. Just Brought home: A) 2.8L with a N42 Head, on a N42 Block. The best N/A head, without destroying a vintage Turbo P90. And the best Block, as the walls are MUCH thicker than the F54. B) A 2.6L. Higher miles, @ 200,000. E 88 Head. Pulled out of a running car. Still see cross hatch, and no ring ridge. THAT'S Nissan. C) Four speed trans. I'll be using it for now, as I have more pressing priorities. D) 240Z Drive shaft, E) 240Z half shafts. F) Accel Super coil. G) R180 Differential H) A very much Like New 3x1/2 " row brass radiator. I) 2 piece fan shroud. J) Factory white plastic Fan and what seems to be a good clutch. H) Good Alternator and bracket. I wanted this block and head so bad I traveled 200 miles one way. In a Auto trans Toyota king cab. Came to @ 75 bucks for there and back. Did great up the hills and in corners, even with 1,000 lbs. of shyt in the bed. TY Toyota. TY Zoltan. Yes, That's his name. He's the guy I bought my Z from. Awesome Guy. I now have TWO low mileage N42 Heads, low mileage N42 block., and a bunch of low mileage basics that I needed. I plan on Pistons, rings, all bearings, gaskets, Oil pump, timing chain, and the largest cam I can use with stock springs(for now). I am guessing very minimal on machine work, if any at all. Got lots to clean, and measure. My parts collection is too big again, as well. Engines! Engines and Superchargers for Sale! Engines and Superchargers for Sale! :lol: Edited October 26, 2008 by agentalpha Quote Link to comment
agentalpha Posted October 26, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2008 http://www.kameariusa.com/L6_DatsunValveCover.php I actually have one of the very first iterations of this casting, originally cast by Kakimoto Racing, back in the 70's. Which should look absolutely killer on my 2.8L! The plan is to paint the head and block a bright "Ford Y block" red, Wrinkle paint with polished fins and letters on the cover. Should look really effin' exotic with my Mikuni setup.::D Quote Link to comment
agentalpha Posted October 27, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2008 (edited) Mikuni's Edited October 27, 2008 by agentalpha Quote Link to comment
agentalpha Posted October 30, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2008 This remote Billet oil filter should be nice. Also have aeroquip lines, to and from an external oil cooler... And a billet Water pump pulley: Super Coil! lol Needed to be color coded here Quote Link to comment
agentalpha Posted November 1, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2008 (edited) I have decided to repaint my car. In true Ratsun Fashion. With a super white, oil alkyd enamel. Out of a one gallon can, with a cheap foam paintbrush.:lol: Now wait. Before I get jumped for doing something that I never thought I'd do myself, lemme at least say this. Two or three even coats, wet sanded, detailed, and polished, will actually look great. Trust me. And it will look GREAT compared to that Metallic "shit brown". I just was laid off from work. There were areas I HAD to cover, as I had already stripped to metal, and killed rust, and etch primered. They look 100% killer for only one coat. That's only ONE coat. And, I'll have LESS than 50 bucks in it. It's all in the details... Edited November 1, 2008 by agentalpha Quote Link to comment
BACARDI_DWB Posted November 1, 2008 Report Share Posted November 1, 2008 if you are going to do the watered down bucket of enamel i HIGHLY suggest you do more coats that 3 or 4. i had a friend who did it and he did about 7 or 8 coats and sanding like a madman inbetween and it looks awesome. hard as nails too!! just suggest doing about 4-5 coats at least. hotrod mag article on the same topic http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/body/hrdp_0707_1962_ford_falcon_budget_paint_job/index.html Quote Link to comment
Jester Posted November 1, 2008 Report Share Posted November 1, 2008 I picked up two gallons of water based enamel paint from a painter at work. OSU Orange for the KC.:D It is an industrial grade and should be tough as nails after the 30 day cure time. I will be spraying mine though. Just not sure about the idea of brushing. Sanding between coats sounds like a good idea if your brushing. Quote Link to comment
agentalpha Posted November 3, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2008 (edited) Thanx, Kats! I actually have the first few layers on the drivers door, hood, and driver's front fender. And I have BARELY made a dent in the gallon I bought from ICI. I AM cutting it with thinner, to get it to lay out. Working very good, actually!! I mean SURPRISINGLY good!!:lol: And yeah, I expect to be a wet sanding fool. I think my approach will be to get a few thick layers down first, say 3-4, THEN wet sand with 400 or so to start. That way, I won't sand down to the shyt brown metallic again. Then one final layer, and a polish. Shyt is BRILLIANT friggin' white.:D Makes that white gelcoat on the fiberglass panels look antique white. Myself, the only worry about a water base I would have is... It's water based. Any bare metal or rust, and it will oxidize slightly more during the dry/cure time. That's why I'm even fooling with the nastiness of alkyd. Edited November 3, 2008 by agentalpha Quote Link to comment
agentalpha Posted November 26, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2008 So. Got a few layers of the brilliant white on. Been a wet sanding fool. Looks killer, especially for less than 40 bucks. For a break, I also decided to re-install the grill after mounting the wide body Subtle Z front fenders. I also mounted the 3 row brass radiator I bought when I got my 2.8L. I'll probably take it back out when it comes time to install the engine. I had to shave down the side straps a little bit to get them to fit between the frame rails. I don't know if it was for a ZX, Turbo, or what. It was also likely a cheap Mexican or Chinese made Radiator. But, for what I picked it up for, who cares? It's in nearly new condition, and after a good washing, it LOOKS new. Plus, it will cool anything the N/A 2.8L throws at it. That's what matters. Quote Link to comment
Jester Posted November 26, 2008 Report Share Posted November 26, 2008 Ya ya ya.........PICTURES DAMN IT!...PICTURES!!!!! :D:D:D:D:D:D Quote Link to comment
agentalpha Posted November 26, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2008 (edited) OK, Mr. Funny guy. :lol: Brilliant white 1973 240Z. Yes, I still have LOTS of sanding and detail work to do yet. Trust me. I see it ALL, and it WILL be done. But, I'm not bitching, for 40 bucks!:lol: I think colors like Metallic Shyt Brown and Baby Puke Green are proof nearly everyone was doing hard drugs back in the 1970's. I can't think of any other reason anyone would think those colors look good. ANYWHERE. Let alone put them ON a CAR, or BUY one that was any of those colors. Re-installed stock grill(for now). Lame 70's molded on spoiler, GONE! Nearly new, 3 row radiator, installed(pics don't do it justice how clean it is) My Z, in Stealth mode(I'm not supposed to be doing ANY car work here! Edited November 26, 2008 by agentalpha Quote Link to comment
Jester Posted November 27, 2008 Report Share Posted November 27, 2008 Right on. That looks pretty good on camera. Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.