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MaxChlan

Max's 1986 Nissan 720 King Cab 4x4

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Hello guys! I am a first time poster, new member, and proud new owner of a 100% original 1986 Nissan 720 King Cab 4x4. This gem has a few dealership options such as a tachometer, oil pressure and battery voltage gauges on the center column, as well as heat and air conditioning. This vehicle has the original paint, proper 5 speed manual gearbox, operational 4x4 transfer case, roll bar with KC lights, 130,011 miles on the clock, and runs nicely. 

 

 

A little history:

 

 

The vehicle started its life in California, where it was driven by its original owner from 1986 until 2014, where it was traded in at a dealership. The second owner contacted the dealership to purchase the vehicle, and he drove it from California to Minnesota, where it sat in a garage in the winter and was seldom driven until I purchased the vehicle today. 

 

 

When I purchased the vehicle, I received some extra goodies such as CV axles, distributer cap, as well some belts and hoses. I also received a very cool Datsun banner, a period-correct look book that would have been at a dealership in the day, as well as the original owners manual. 

 

 

A little bit about me:

 

 

I am 19 years old, and this is actually my first vehicle that I've purchased. In the past, I have daily driven a 2005 Buick Rendezvous as well as a 2013 VW Passat TDi. This Nissan is going to be my new daily driver. My first order of business is to change the fluids, as well as correct some minor scratches and surface rust in the bed. I plan to put a bed liner in, so if anyone has any suggestions on which bed liner would work the best, please feel free to share! After installing a bed liner, I plan on attaching the roll bar and wiring up the KC lights, so if there is a thread on that I would love for someone to point me in the right direction. 

 

 

The truck isn't the fastest in the world, but it sure is a pleasure to drive. If anyone has a suggestions on what I can do mechanically to increase the performance of the vehicle, as well as any tips on general and preventative mantainence on a vehicle with a carbureted engine, I would appreciate it as this is my first. With the help of my cousin who is a mechanic and Nissan guy himself, I'm planning on making this vehicle a fun daily driver that will catch a lot of looks. Thanks for looking!

 

 

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A very fine example of the late 720 truck and welcome to Ratsun. All 4x4s came with the oil and volt gauges on the console. The 'roll bar' is a dealer dress-up option the owner may have purchased and installed. The tach is optional on the 720s as it the clock but is in a  standard option package on the ST model which has electric windows, pulse delay wipers and sunroof. Wow.... Minnesota will eat that truck so protect it or don't drive it from late fall till spring.

 

The DATSUN by NISSAN on the dash looks to be an early '80-'82 front fender emblem.

 

 

If doing the maintenance work yourself I would suggest getting the FSM (factory service manual) for that year. Go online for one but get the Nissan one s the Haynes and Chiltons are not good enough. Transmission and Trans cases use GL-4 oil only. Do NOT allow GL-5 to be used in them. The differentials need GL-5.

 

Engine oil makers have been yearly reducing their ZDDP levels because it's not needed in today's roller tappet engines. Look up the ZDDP controversy and decide what you want to do about it. Our 30+ year old engines need the anti scuff Zinc additives of the old oil formulations. With the reduced level there is real risk that the cam lobes and rockers will wear but there is an option.... diesel oils still use the same old formula and higher ZDDP levels in them. I have been running 15W40 Shell Rotella T in my Datsuns for about ten years. Chevron Delo 400 is another good one. Both are 'light' diesel oils with the higher ZDDP levels that protect out 'flat tappet cams'.

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Where at in Minnesota are you? I dig the truck man.

 

Seriously don't drive it in the winter. Take the flares off yearly and wash underneath. I had to because mine was my only vehicle, and the rust is coming full force. Wash it in November and put her away until May.

 

Rotella makes a 10w30 diesel oil also, but I don't think it has as much zinc. I've heard Quaker state high mileage has the highest zinc content of the regular oils. Valvoline VR1 is also a high zinc oil.

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I am in Minneapolis, just slightly off campus from the University of Minnesota. 

 

Yeah, I am trying to come up with a plan of attack to best prepare for winter in this vehicle. Unfortuntately I bought this vehicle as a daily, so it's going to have to see some snow. I don't plan on off roading in it either. It's just going to be a nice city cruiser. 

 

As far as the oil goes, 15W40 Shell Rotella T is an excellent choice because of it's high zinc content? 

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Make sure the underside has got paint/undercoating on it. There's an oil based spray, I forget the name of it, that you can apply to the underside and in the frame. Keeps the slushy salt shit from sticking to the bottom.

 

 

Give it a rinse every time you get a couple of days above freezing. I'd towel dry, door may freeze shut.

 

The 15w40 might be a little thick for winter. I'd run a 10w30 for winter.

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Give it a rinse every time you get a couple of days above freezing. I'd towel dry, door may freeze shut.

Winter trick from Ontario... wipe down the rubber door seals with Armorall on a cloth. The silicone will prevent frost and ice from freezing the doors shut.

 

Lube the door locks with WD-40..... before you NEED to. It will lube them and flush out any moisture. If door lock is frozen a hot coffee (or anything hot) poured over the outside of the lock will transfer heat into it and melt the ice enough to get you in.

 

Replace the anti-freeze now before you need to. Best preventative for cooling system rust and damage is a good coolant/anti-freeze replaced every 3 years.

 

 

The 15w40 might be a little thick for winter. I'd run a 10w30 for winter.

Forgot Minnesota. Just south of Manitoba... the coldest place on earth. Block heater or in-line heater hose water heater is handy for below 0. F. I have also used an electric battery warming blanket to keep the voltage up.

 

 

 

 

One more thing. The Z24 is notorious for blowing the head gasket every 100,000 miles. Nissan recommends that the head bolts are re-torqued every tune up (once a year is plenty) To do this make sure the engine is cold and only do one bolt at a time. Loosen and then right away torque to 60 ft lbs. You can do the bolts in any order you like... just one bolt loose at a time.

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This is awesome advice guys. Is it worth it to get the exterior detailed with wax, so that the paint/body work is protected from snow and salt? 

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Yes, it is! I dropped off the truck today at my cousin's shop (which is a converted cow-milking barn; it's super cool). He is going to give the truck a test drive, and see if there is anything that we should do right a way. We may replace the spark plugs, but will definitely change the coolant and engine oil. We may do the diff. and transfer case as well. After that, we'll sand the rust out of the bed, prime it, and put a bed liner in. Any recommendations on a bed liner anyone?

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Man , what a find...!

 

congratulations..!

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A plastic drop in bed liner is a tall order. The D21s that succeeded the 720 has a higher bedside and different dimensions on the wheel wells.

Also a plastic drop in bedliner gives the moisture and salt many places to hide rust and corrosion.

With my 720 I went with bedliner paint and an aluminum diamond plate tailgate protector.

Nice find, Hope mine looks half as good when I get it back together.

Interesting side stripe decal.

 

 

Yes, it is! I dropped off the truck today at my cousin's shop (which is a converted cow-milking barn; it's super cool). He is going to give the truck a test drive, and see if there is anything that we should do right a way. We may replace the spark plugs, but will definitely change the coolant and engine oil. We may do the diff. and transfer case as well. After that, we'll sand the rust out of the bed, prime it, and put a bed liner in. Any recommendations on a bed liner anyone?

Edited by DrvnDrvr
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Do you think it would be worth it to put a Rhinoliner or Line-X in?

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I think he was referring to a drop in bedliner. like the plastic ones. spray or roll in bedliners are good.

It is a Nissan that has been exposed to the weather for 32 years.  Clean the bed real well, sand off all the rust and buy a do it yourself kit before it gets cold.  Put the money you save into something else.

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I am currently in the process of sanding the paint and rust out of the bed. Should I make a new thread or just add to this one?

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Just make this your build thread. Put everything you do to the truck in here.

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Your truck, your thread, keep it going.

I made sure to seal and prime my bed with Corroseal before I sprayed my bedliner in.

I like Corrseal because neutralizes any rust I missed and primes the paint.

I used flexible body caulk to fill in any gaps or sharp corners before spraying on bedliner paint.

I went with Rhinoliner because it was a little more cost effective.

Like Charlie said, do it while it's hot. Multiple light coats dry fast right now.

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Thanks for the advice guys. I was looking at Eastwood rust converter products, but I saw mixed reviews. Is Corroseal the best option? Most of the rust will be gone anyway. 

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I can't say Corroseal is the best because I haven't used anything else.

Also I have only used it for a year so I can't say how it will hold up long term.

I will say the paint I have used over it adheres very well. In places where it has been scratched it goes all the way to the metal.

Also no rust has formed underneath it. Once again, only a year.

Good prep work will give you the best results with any product.

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Yeah, the surface will be cleaned before we apply the Corroseal. Also, I plan on changing the transmission and transfer case fluid with Redline 50305 MT-90 75W90 GL-4, and the rear diff with Red Line 57905 75W90 GL-5. Good choices?

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2 thin coats works best.

 

I MEAN THIN.

 

The rust will turn black on the first coat. If it stays clearish on the first coat, a second coat is not useful.

 

Search Ratsun for GL-4 and GL-5 application, it's been covered.

 

NIce truck, keep it up.

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Fellas, a few quick question about tires:

 

The truck currently has Goodyear Wrangler RT/S 255 70r16's up front that have about 9/32 tread left, and pretty bald Dunlop AT21 265 70r16's in the back.  

 

What is the appropriate tires size for my truck? Seeing that I have two different widths/heights, I would like it to be uniform. 

 

Winter is coming, and I want to put some winter tires: I'm thinking about Blizzaks's or General Grabber Arctics, but what is your guys' experiences/preferences?

 

Because my front tires seem to be impossible to find, and the back ones are basically bald and causing some slight rattling at high speeds, I'm thinking about new spring/summer/fall tires, and I would like some pointers on what I should look for, or what you guys have on your 720's; I'm currently looking at Yoko Geolandar G015's, but I honestly do not have a brand preference. 

 

Any help or guidance would be very much appreciated!

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235/75 r15s are pretty common. Its the biggest diameter you can run without rubbing IIRC

 

I've been through some deep snow with mine with the junk good year wrangler radials. They're junk on ice though. Any winter tire should outperform any all terrain, i have heard good things about the blizzaks.

 

Having the same size tire all around is important. Your transfer case will thank you.

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Doing a quick look around, turning the wheel lock to lock and putting about 200 miles on it since I've got it, I haven't seen or heard any rubbing with the 255 75r16's up front and the 265's in back. Would there be any advantage to going back to the factory size (which is 235 75r15, you're right) vs running 265 75r16's all the way around? 

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