Jump to content

Genaro

Members
  • Content Count

    66
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

115 Better

About Genaro

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Neuquen, Patagonia Argentina
  • Cars
    1980 Datsun 720 Deluxe Cab 4x2 - 2001 Suzuki Jimny JLX
  • Interests
    Commissioning & Start-up
    Trucks
    Construction

Recent Profile Visitors

1,937 profile views
  1. New radiator installed, now i can drive looking more at the road that at the temp gauge...hahaha!
  2. Well, radiator has arrived....it is as it was described, a brand new original one... Another time capsule item...
  3. Nice info..! Both of my pumps are short rotor... Thanks!
  4. I dont know about the oil pump, Mike... I compared the internals from the two pumps and they looked exactly the same... I forgot to mention that i also replaced the muffler on the exhaust... Its a 10cm/4" longer that the one that was installed, so the sound changed completely... It lost it's charm, but my neighbourgs must be happy, and thats good for me. Thanks !
  5. Ok, 250 kms since rebuild... It runs pretty well... Since rebuild, the oil pressure started to go lower and lower at idling as kms went by, down to 15-18 psi, i guess the oil pump was also tired...so i've installed a new one (taiwan sadly) and pressure is now 28-32 at idling and running temp. I've changed the oil at 200 kms and replaced the pump... Radiator didn't leaked again, but anyways i was lucky and i found an brand new original radiator for u$s150...still waiting for it to arrive. Cheers from the south of the south...!
  6. Ok... I've found the leak on the radiator...there was a pinhole on the bottom "tank", i was able to remove some fins, scratch the paint, clean and apply some epoxy compound to the orifice. After some time i put everything back on the truck and ran it for 10 minutes. Looks like the thermostat took some extra time to start opening or an air pocket prevented the coolant to flow, because the temperature went a little over half scale for 3-4 minutes and then suddenly dropped to a little less than half. Im searching online for a replacement but looks line i will have to adapt one....no luck finding an "original" one yet. Anyway, i will try not to use the truck until i solve this, i dont trust that fix at all...it wouldnt be nice if it decides to leak at the very moment that im not looking at the temp gage and i overheat the just rebuilt engine...no no no... and also, if that hole developed, there must be more on the way. I didnt dare to put one of those "leak repair" magic liquids/powders... Thanks for the advices and support! Cheers...!
  7. Well, i went for a 30 kms/20 miles test and it performed pretty well... Always following your suggestions about rpm's and speed changes... Temperature was a little below half like always before, and measured with the heat gun at the thermostat housing is 75-80 celsius. Acceleration is worse than before, a small amount of dark smoke comes out the exhaust every now and then...i think that i will change the muffler, it might be clogged with carbon deposits from the many liters of oil that went thru it. Carburator is really out of tune, tomorrow i will follow Mike's instructions to try improve the performance. When i parked it i found that there is a small coolant leak on the radiator or around, it is so small that i could not find the source with the engine running...maybe i broke/puncture a tube while removing the engine...yeah, i know...i should have the radiator removed prior to do so... Coolant level was a tad lower after an hour being parked. Oil level is stable and pressure is 38-40 at idle, depending on the carburator mood... Thanks to you all guys ! Im very happy with my truck being back on the road... I've saved 60% of the repair cost, i've learnt a lot and i'm sure of why and how everything was done.
  8. Excellent tips guys! Thanks a lot...! I used it yesterday and no problems at all. Engine runs much smoother and quieter than before... Im using Shell Rimula R4 X 15W40 mineral diesel oil...ZDDP supposed to be 1250 ppm. Idling oil pressure is at 38 Psi constant at normal coolant temperature. (Temp sender stopped working today...what a nice moment to fail... It was bad grounding only) Engine hasn't been "tuned" at all...i dont have a lamp to check the timing and i dont have the knowledge for adjusting the carburator, i'm reading about that... But i've put everything back as it was and bum.... It' s running...hahahah! Sorry if it sounds too amateur for some of you! What about head re-torque after some mileage? I was reading a thread here on Ratsun and one guy says : "After the engine has been warmed up, ran and cooled down, recheck the torque. Check it again in about 100 miles. Recheck at the next oil change. By now, everything should have settled into place, and you will not need to recheck as often, but I think Nissan still recommended a head bolt check every 12,000 miles." Sounds reasonable to me, but again ...im not a mechanic! TXS !
  9. Hi guys! First of all....BIG THANKS to all the people that helped me thru the process of diagnosing/fixing the engine....! Last night i started it for the first time, today im going to give it a try on the road. Any advice/suggestion on how to treat the engine for the first miles/kms will be greatly appreciated!
  10. Tomorrow i will put the engine back to his place... Cross your fingers with me! Hahahaha....
  11. Thanks for the oil pump advice! Yes, all bearings, piston rings, valves/guides/seals are new, i've just finished assembling the crankshaft with the pistons. Now starting to put together the head and chain....
  12. Thanks for the advices, Mike! Two questions in one picture, guys... - Is this manual ok? - Could be a problem that the new bearing haves the little hole slightly bigger than the original's bearing one? Thanks and have a nice week! Ps: actually is almost double the size of the hole 🤔🤔🤔
  13. Luckily for me, removing the engine made me see that the clutch disc is shot , was rubbing rivets against pressure plate ... New kit is on its way... 225mm 24 splines...it was hard to find the right one, most of parts sellers here have the small one that goes into cars, not trucks...
  14. Thanks Crash! Every advice is welcomed...i am a total newbie in this trade...! I work in industrial plants as a field commissioning & start-up technician, so i know how things should work but not always how they do they work in deep...hahaha...! Yes! Pins for the front cover are there, will keep an eye on them .. Im reading about assembly lube, i though it was only oil to be used... Manual says to use engine oil, but i see that a bit more of sticking is good to keep things in place while assembling and also in the first rotations before real run...Good tip! I was reading a guy that says that before running the engine for the first time, it is good to remove the spark plugs, coil cable and crank it like that for a while, until you see the oil low pressure switch turns off.... Sounds reasonable, isn't it? Thanks again!
  15. Ok, after waiting for the parts to show up, im finally ready to put things back together... I hope i dont mess it up! As Mike suspected, there is one rod bearing that haves a scratch all the way around, luckily the crankshaft isn't damaged.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.