MontanaGoon Posted June 4, 2016 Report Share Posted June 4, 2016 I am now in the process of fixing up a 68 wagon with an L16 block A87 open chamber head. I would replace the the L16 with an L20 if I could find one in the kalispell, MT area.it has been in a barn for the last 10 years.compression test showed;#1 100#2 50#3 55#4 125So time to bust into this. I don't have an engine jack so I am trying to do this all with the engine static.I have marked and removed the timing assembly. and removed the head. looks real nasty on top of the the #1 piston is gritty stuff that looks like cat litter.Anyways, next step is to remove the pistons and inspect the and measure the cylinders, hone(hopefully not have to bore), replace rings and bearings then go from there.one main issue holding me up though how should I support the block to remove the cross member to get under the pan? Thanks. Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted June 4, 2016 Report Share Posted June 4, 2016 Set a 2x4 across the engine bay. Get some chain. Put a bolt through a link and thread it in to something near the center of the engine. Run chain over board, get it snug, bolt it to the other side of your engine. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted June 4, 2016 Report Share Posted June 4, 2016 read everything on Olddatsuns.com read the Datsun tech section. my YOUTUBE vids are on there find another wedge pin or whatever you call it. I forgot right now what its called. lower the oil pan before you try to wedge the front cover back on again.with out ripping under the new headgasket I think you need to find another oil slinger ring yours looks chewed up. it will rip the front cover crank seal gasket if you have all parts I say a 4 hr job your in Montana Got to be some rednecks with a engine hoist and stand But this can be done with installed. Just what was bad on this???????Montana gets cold if a freeze pug went or a overheat we got to know othwise your going to do this again. Most 1st timmers it takes 2 times 1 Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted June 4, 2016 Report Share Posted June 4, 2016 Do you have an engine stand? Two people can fairly easily lift an L16 out of the engine bay without a lift, using a chain and a piece of pipe/2x4 Quote Link to comment
MontanaGoon Posted June 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2016 Oil slinger ring! I threw that picture up so someone could identity the name for me. Thanks. Lol. All the freeze plugs are in it still not sure what to look for if it overheated? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 4, 2016 Report Share Posted June 4, 2016 An open chamber on an L16 will drop the compression to 7.72!!!! What this would read on a compression tester is any body's guess but it would be way lower than the stock 8.5. Quote Link to comment
Doctor510 Posted June 4, 2016 Report Share Posted June 4, 2016 Oil slinger ring! I threw that picture up so someone could identity the name for me. Thanks. Lol. All the freeze plugs are in it still not sure what to look for if it overheated? Oil slinger was installed backwards by PO or his brother-in-law, change the freeze plugs anyway. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted June 4, 2016 Report Share Posted June 4, 2016 nice catch Doctor on the oil slinger being backwards. I think my vid will show it the right way if its close enough for you to see up to you on the freeze plugs to change some might be hard to get at. 1 Quote Link to comment
Rick-rat Posted June 5, 2016 Report Share Posted June 5, 2016 While you have it torn down, it would be a good time to remove the EGR pipe from the exhaust manifold. Cut the tubes off so you can get a wrench on the fittings and if they don't want to come out, put some penetrating oil on them and heat the fitting red hot and they come out fairly easy, just don't round the fittings off trying without heat. Then you can remove the tubes that stick into the head. looks like someone tried to plug it already. When you get the fitting out just put in plugs or a bolt, I used longer bolts and then cut the them off flush with the manifold 2 Quote Link to comment
MontanaGoon Posted June 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2016 Thanks guys. I will be taking off the egr Pipe. I will also be redoing the suspension while I have the cross member off. Cleaning things up and painting. I will keep it posted in progress Quote Link to comment
MontanaGoon Posted June 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2016 Where can I find a new oil slinger? 1 Quote Link to comment
Doctor510 Posted June 5, 2016 Report Share Posted June 5, 2016 Where can I find a new oil slinger? I have about 6 here in AZ, msg me Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 5, 2016 Report Share Posted June 5, 2016 The engine mounts are on the crossmember so support the engine with a joist or better... remove it and do it right. Easier to get at will make the job better. Even the core plugs, should you choose to. Quote Link to comment
MontanaGoon Posted June 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2016 update. unbolted passenger motor mount had a buddy help support up top while I jacked up one side. wiggled the oil pan enough to get the filter bolts off then presto slid the oil pan right out. lowered back into position secured the mounts. now I have access to the rods/bearings. sounds kinda dumb, but it worked and nothing broke so I'm happy Quote Link to comment
MontanaGoon Posted June 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2016 update; pulled the pistons now awaiting rings. bearings, and flex hone. ring was broken in #3. cylinder doesnt look awful. opinions? Quote Link to comment
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