Small block 521

[Anderson521]

Ahhhhhhhh no. The core charge was $1600.

That's funny I was gonna ask how much that was!

[The Engine Room]

Ahhhhhhhh no. The core charge was $1600. 

 

 

Yeah, I know about the core. I meant actual trading. I PM'd you.

[Jester]

So how is the diff coming along. Is it in yet?  :poke:

[Anderson521]

No diff yet, same ol 4:88 but the excitement of the hour is the finished transmission crossmember!

[Anderson521]

Well not "finished" but mock up finished, it's made out of 3 pieces of angle and a square tube that I slotted on the old Bridgeport at work. Half inch bolts with lock washers and nylocks.

[Anderson521]

Shitty pics I totally forgot to take some before throwing it in. I'm really trying to make it to the datsick show in San jose so This month im making the push

[Anderson521]

Current parts on order

[Anderson521]

Plus I have a set of 720 4x4 leafs coming from Nevada

[Anderson521]

 

[Anderson521]

[Anderson521]

One of today's projects, some electric cutouts! The motors are reverse polarity to open and close so I had to get a dtdp switch that has a open close and neutral point

[Anderson521]

[Anderson521]

So I fucked up and my wheel studs stripped out the holes in my hub, not sure whether to r and r the hub or take to the machine shop. Dorman 610-157 no longer fit. Open to suggestions

[Jester]

See if there is a stud that has a  larger diameter knurling area but still the stock threads. 

[Draker]

Could always weld a bit of material back in the hole then drill. Just a little material.. couple spot welds with good penetration should do the trick.

[Anderson521]

Both suggestions make the most sense, honestly the only safe routes as well. Definetly not one of those things to rig. Called a salvage yard so we'll see if I can just get em cheap, also wondering if they're cast iron or just good old steel

[The Engine Room]

Use a nut splitter to make the knurls deeper.

[Anderson521]

There's a 521 at a salvage yard in Sacramento that will pull and ship a set of hubs for 100 bucks so I'm kinda leaning towards that direction as I just need to finish this damn truck. I'll certainly use the suggestions you guys have given to fix my muddled ones when I'm able to give them the proper attention, so thanks fellas

[Anderson521]

So pulled the trigger and the hubs should be here Saturday, won't be putting these on for a bit but still very exciting to get a little lower

 

[Anderson521]

 

 

So the first image is the hub on the truck that came with it when I bought it, the second is the a set that came from a jy 521 and also from lookin around on Google seems to be a true 521 wheel hub... So what I'm wondering is what the hell is the first hub from? It didn't have any flats on the back but bearings sat nicely on the spindle so maybe a year specific hub or something? Any help would be killer, more pics this afternoon when I get back to taking it all apart again

[Anderson521]

Here's the back of the ones that were on the truck, you may notice there is a shoulder but it is not close enough to matter

[Anderson521]

As in you could notch the wheel stud but it wouldn't bite

[Anderson521]

All better now

Picked this up for free in Santa Cruz over the weekend, gonna see if anyone wants to trade parts since it's from a 510

[Anderson521]

Front brakes started locking up when I took it down the street, originally thought it was the new hubs but those check out

Guess I'll investigate the master cylinder now... Maybe it's not returning to home position and keeping pressure in the lines.

[Anderson521]

So I believe my previous dilema was caused due to having the wrong rear bearing installed, the junkyard hub bearing was just a normal looking bearing.. But the hub that was on the truck had a "race" of sorts. So Im thinking maybe without the race the other bearing was slopping around on the spindle, they swapped right out and the new and improved one is awaiting testing