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The Engine Room

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About The Engine Room

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    Advanced Member

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  • Location
    Atlanta OTP East
  • Cars
  • Occupation
    Automotive Engineer

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  1. I wish. I'm not equipped to handle a show of that size. I just build off-screen rigging so I don't usually get to see prop cars anyway. The production companies that I work with mostly do network series' and made-for TV movies. No big-budget stuff.
  2. One of my side-gigs is building camera car rigs for a few of the production companies in the Atlanta area. I've been pretty busy since there are several action series filming here now. I can't really say much more than that because of confidentiality agreements but Hollywood money is pretty good and paying jobs skip the line. At least I'll have some folding money for the off-season.
  3. Yeah. That would totally work but it's the most expensive option.
  4. I think I would run a foot or so of -8 braided line from the tank to the hard line and then just use a -6 to -8 connector to get to a -6 stainless hard line.
  5. -6 is good to almost 1000 hp on an EFI system. You can buy -8 tube nuts that are made for-6 tubing so you don't have to use an adapter. I'm not sure what you mean by "slip fitting" but they make every type of adapter that you can imagine.
  6. Do you really need brakes? They just slow you down.
  7. My favorite one was when they built several nests inside the zoomie headers in the T-bucket. That was a real mess when I started the engine and they all geysered out of there.
  8. I can't say I wouldn't have just formed up and poured a dead-flat concrete pad right there.
  9. The fuse isn't to protect the fan. It's to protect the wiring to the fan. If the fan goes bad, the fuse won't blow until it's too late. What you want is a situation where the fuse blows before the wiring has a chance to get hot. If the smallest wire in the circuit is good to 30 amps, use a 30 amp fuse.
  10. On the upper shaft, if you slide the left-most ring over the narrow copper colored gear and the steel colored one next to the left of it, you'll have put the transmission in 4th gear and the shafts should spin in unison.
  11. That transmission isn't in gear. The shafts should spin freely and independently of each other. If it feels like it's engaging than the needle bearings that the gear is spinning on are bad and/or digging into the shaft.
  12. Let me clarify that. You would use 2 bridge rectifiers. One for each relay. Wire the -terminal of each rectifier to each relay. On the A rectifier, wire each output of the BMW switch to one of the ~ terminals. On the B rectifier wire the A/C switch to one of the ~ terminals and the hi output of the BMW switch to the other ~ terminal. uxcell® 5 x Silver Tone Metal Case Single-Phase Bridge Rectifier 1KV 50Amp KBPC50-10 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CFSVB7G/
  13. Diode is the answer. I like to use bridge rectifiers because they have a mounting hole and spade terminals. Wire each output to one of the ~ terminals and the fan relay to the - terminal. Break off the + terminal or tape it up. You'll need a diode between the A/C switch and the fan B relay or else your compressor might come on if the temp goes high.
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